Saturday, 29 August 2026

Why Accuracy Alone Is Not Enough in Textile Image Classification



A textile image classifier may report 95% accuracy and still fail on the classes that matter most. The problem is not necessarily the model; it may be the way performance is being measured.

Computer vision is increasingly used for fabric-defect detection, fibre and weave identification, garment inspection, print recognition and saree classification. Accuracy is usually the first number reported because it is easy to understand: how many test images were classified correctly? Yet textile datasets are rarely perfectly balanced, and several classes may share colours, borders, motifs, yarn effects or surface textures. Under these conditions, one overall percentage can conceal serious weaknesses.

This question extends the earlier My Textile Notes discussion on deep learning for saree texture identification. Once a model has been built, the next challenge is deciding whether its performance is genuinely useful.

Why a High Accuracy Can Be Misleading

Accuracy is the number of correct predictions divided by the total number of predictions. It is valid, but it gives every image equal weight rather than every class equal importance. Imagine a hypothetical textile test set containing 700 images from a dominant catalogue class, 200 ikat images, 80 brocade images and only 20 images from a rare handloom class. Suppose the model correctly identifies 680, 170, 45 and 2 images respectively. Overall accuracy is 897 out of 1,000, or 89.7%.

That sounds respectable. However, recall for the rare class is only 10%, and recall for the 80-image class is about 56%. The model is performing well mainly because the large classes dominate the total. A merchandiser, museum archive or provenance-research project could therefore receive a reassuring accuracy figure while the less common textiles are being missed.

Many common fabric swatches classified correctly while a small group of ornate textile swatches is misclassified.

Strong performance on a majority class can hide failure on rare but important textiles.

Read the Confusion Matrix Before Celebrating

A confusion matrix places true classes in rows and predicted classes in columns. The diagonal contains correct predictions; off-diagonal cells show the direction of errors. This is especially valuable in textiles because not all mistakes are equally informative. If two classes are repeatedly confused, the pattern may point to similar motifs, inadequate image views, inconsistent labelling, insufficient samples or a taxonomy that cannot be resolved from appearance alone.

For example, images of two saree traditions may share floral zari, contrast borders or similar catalogue photography even though their weaving structures and provenance differ. The confusion matrix reveals the pairwise problem that accuracy suppresses. It should be examined in both raw counts and row-normalised form: counts show the workload represented by each error, while row normalisation shows what proportion of each true class is being recovered.

A five-class textile confusion matrix with a strong diagonal and two off-diagonal confusion clusters.

Off-diagonal clusters identify the textile pairs that require better data, labels or features.

The Minimum Metric Set

Measure What it answers Why it matters in textiles
Per-class recall Of all true images in a class, how many were found? Exposes classes the model repeatedly misses.
Per-class precision Of all images assigned to a class, how many really belong there? Shows whether a label is being overused.
F1 score How well are precision and recall balanced? Useful when false positives and false negatives both matter.
Macro-F1 What is the unweighted average of class-level F1 scores? Prevents large classes from dominating the summary.
Balanced accuracy What is the average recall across classes? Makes minority-class weakness visible.

The official scikit-learn model-evaluation guide defines precision, recall and F-measures and explains multiclass averaging. Its documentation defines balanced accuracy as the average recall obtained on each class. In the hypothetical example above, balanced accuracy is only about 62%, far below the 89.7% overall accuracy. Weighted-F1 should also be treated cautiously because weighting by class support can again allow large classes to dominate.

Prevent Leakage Before Calculating Any Metric

Metrics are trustworthy only when the test set is genuinely independent. Textile datasets often contain several photographs of the same physical saree, garment, fabric roll or defect: full view, pallu, border, close-up and reverse side. If these related images are randomly divided, one view can enter training while another view of the same item enters testing. The model may recognise the product, background or photo session rather than learning a general textile characteristic.

A group-aware split keeps all images from one physical item together. The GroupKFold documentation describes non-overlapping groups, with each group appearing in the test set once across the folds. Depending on the research claim, an appropriate group may be a physical saree, fabric roll, production lot, motif artwork, vendor or photography session. The grouping decision should be recorded in the paper or project report.

Grouped saree images separated into training and testing sets, followed by a neural network, multiple evaluation measures and expert error review.

A trustworthy pipeline combines group-aware splitting, several metrics and expert review of difficult image pairs.

Match Evaluation to the Real Decision

The best metric depends on how the system will be used. For automatic catalogue tagging, precision may be important because a wrong public label damages trust. For archive retrieval, recall may matter more because missing a relevant textile is costly. For an expert-assistance tool, top-k accuracy can be useful: the correct class may be accepted if it appears among the model’s three most likely suggestions. Top-k performance, however, should complement rather than replace top-1 and class-wise results.

Error cost also varies. Confusing two colourways within one construction is not equivalent to assigning an unsupported provenance or craft identity. Visual appearance alone may not prove fibre composition, weaving technique, authenticity or geographical origin. A textile expert should review recurring error pairs and decide whether better images, microscopic structure, metadata or a revised label hierarchy is required.

This evaluation logic also applies beyond image classification. Readers interested in data-driven textile decisions may connect it with Python modelling for cotton yarn quality, optimising yarn quality through raw-material parameters, and marker efficiency as an optimisation problem. In every case, a model is useful only when its evaluation reflects the actual industrial or research decision.

A Practical Reporting Checklist

  1. Report the number of images and physical groups in each class.
  2. Explain how train, validation and test sets were separated.
  3. Provide accuracy, macro-F1, balanced accuracy and per-class precision and recall.
  4. Show raw and row-normalised confusion matrices.
  5. Review the most frequent error pairs with a textile expert.
  6. Test on images from new products, lots, vendors or capture conditions.
  7. State what the model cannot establish from an image alone.

Conclusion

Accuracy is a useful starting point, not a complete verdict. Textile image datasets combine class imbalance, fine visual differences, repeated views and domain-specific error costs. A reliable evaluation therefore needs class-wise metrics, a confusion matrix, group-aware splitting and expert interpretation. The most important question is not “How high is the accuracy?” but “Which textiles does the model recognise, which does it confuse, and would those errors be acceptable in the intended application?”

Sources and Acknowledgement

Friday, 28 August 2026

AATCC TM195 Explained: How to Read Moisture Management Test Results



A fabric may absorb sweat, spread it, move it away from the skin, or simply hold it where it first lands. These behaviours are related, but they are not the same. AATCC TM195 helps separate them.

Moisture management has become an important selling point in activewear, innerwear, sports uniforms, socks, workwear and next-to-skin clothing. Yet the phrase is often used loosely. A fabric may be described as “moisture managing” merely because it is made from polyester, contains a finish, or dries quickly in an informal trial. Such statements can be misleading because comfort depends on several different processes: wetting, absorption, liquid transfer through the thickness, spreading across each surface, evaporation and heat transfer.

AATCC TM195, Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics, is designed to measure, evaluate and classify the dynamic liquid-moisture behaviour of knitted, woven and nonwoven fabrics. It is particularly useful when a buyer, mill or product developer wants to understand what happens after liquid sweat reaches the skin-facing side of a fabric.

How the Moisture Management Tester Works

A specimen is placed horizontally between an upper and a lower sensor. The upper surface normally represents the side worn next to the skin, while the lower surface represents the outer side of the garment. A controlled test liquid is introduced onto the upper face. Concentric sensor rings then track changes in electrical response as the liquid wets, spreads and passes through the fabric.

The instrument does not produce only one number. It records a time-dependent moisture profile for both fabric faces. A commercial MMT system typically reports wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetted radius and spreading speed for the top and bottom surfaces, together with one-way transport capability and Overall Moisture Management Capability. The SDL Atlas MMT literature describes this as a two-minute performance profile. Laboratories should, however, follow the current authorised version of the test method rather than rely on an instrument brochure for procedural details.

Fabric specimen between upper and lower moisture-management sensors, with liquid spreading and moving through the fabric.

The tester separately tracks wetting and spreading on the skin-facing and outer surfaces.

The Main Results and What They Mean

Result Practical interpretation Common misunderstanding
Wetting time Time before each surface begins to wet. A shorter time means that face responds to liquid sooner. Fast wetting alone does not prove that moisture moves away from the skin.
Absorption rate Rate at which the measured water content rises on each surface after wetting. High top-face absorption may mean that sweat is being retained near the skin.
Maximum wetted radius Farthest radial distance reached by liquid on the top or bottom sensor. It should not be treated as a complete measurement of irregular wetted area.
Spreading speed How quickly the wetting front travels across each face. Fast spreading can support evaporation, but the test does not directly measure evaporation.
Accumulative one-way transport Compares accumulated liquid on the outer face with that on the skin face. A strongly positive value generally indicates preferential movement toward the outer side. Its sign and meaning depend on correct face orientation.
OMMC A composite index based on bottom-face absorption, one-way transport and bottom-face spreading. It is not a universal comfort score and should not replace the individual results.

The University of Zagreb Textile Faculty’s MMT laboratory page lists the same output family: OMMC, one-way transport, top and bottom wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetted radius and spreading speed. This is why an MMT report should be read as a pattern rather than reduced immediately to one grade.

Why OMMC Must Be Read Carefully

Overall Moisture Management Capability is useful because it combines three desirable behaviours: liquid should be taken up on the outer face, transported preferentially from the inner face to the outer face, and spread on the outer face. In commonly reported formulations, one-way transport receives greater weight than either bottom absorption or bottom spreading. The logic is sensible: a fabric that absorbs sweat but keeps it beside the skin is not managing moisture in the same way as a fabric that moves it outward.

Nevertheless, two fabrics with similar OMMC values may behave differently. One may achieve its score through strong one-way transport but moderate spreading; another may spread rapidly while showing weaker through-thickness transfer. Product developers should therefore retain the complete top-versus-bottom result table and moisture curves when comparing constructions or finishes.

Three Typical Moisture-Management Patterns

  1. Absorbent but clammy: The top surface wets quickly and absorbs strongly, while bottom-face spreading and one-way transport remain low. A hydrophilic fibre can absorb sweat without efficiently moving it away from the skin.
  2. Water-repellent on both faces: Wetting is delayed and the wetted radii remain small. This may be desirable for an outer shell, but it is usually not the desired next-to-skin behaviour for activewear.
  3. Directional moisture management: The skin face accepts the liquid, the outer face wets and spreads, and the one-way transport value is positive. This pattern is often sought in plated knits, engineered blends and fabrics with different inner and outer surface chemistries.
Comparison of absorbent-but-clammy, water-repellent and directional moisture-transport behaviours in fabrics.

The same amount of liquid can produce very different top-versus-bottom moisture patterns.

Why Fibre Content Alone Cannot Predict the Result

Cotton is hydrophilic, while conventional polyester is relatively hydrophobic, but a simple cotton-versus-polyester rule is inadequate. Yarn twist, filament or staple form, cross-section, yarn packing, loop geometry, fabric density, thickness, surface roughness, capillary paths and chemical finish all influence the result. A polyester knit with engineered capillaries and a durable hydrophilic finish may transport liquid effectively. A dense cotton fabric may absorb well but spread or dry slowly.

The two faces may also be intentionally different. In a plated knit, a low-absorbency inner yarn can help direct liquid toward a more absorbent outer layer. Brushing, raising, calendaring, coating and softening may alter surface contact and capillary continuity. Readers may connect this with earlier My Textile Notes explanations of how cotton absorbs moisture, the role of textile finishing, and the moisture behaviour of nylon 6,6.

A Practical Testing Plan for Mills and Buyers

  1. Define the end use first. Innerwear, running shirts, school uniforms and waterproof shells do not require the same liquid behaviour.
  2. Mark the fabric faces. Record clearly which side touches the skin. Reversing the specimen can reverse the apparent direction of transport.
  3. Compare construction stages. Test greige, dyed and finished fabric when possible to separate structural effects from finishing effects.
  4. Check durability. Repeat testing after the agreed laundering sequence. A strong initial result from a non-durable hydrophilic finish may disappear in use.
  5. Use complementary tests. AATCC lists separate methods for vertical and horizontal wicking, drying time, drying rate and water-vapour transmission. These properties should not be inferred from TM195 alone.
  6. Judge consistency, not one specimen. Compare replicates, lots, colourways and production batches, especially when a moisture-management claim will appear on packaging or in buyer specifications.

For Indian apparel suppliers, this distinction is commercially important. A mill may develop a polyester–cotton school-uniform fabric, a plated sports knit or a finished hosiery fabric and obtain an attractive OMMC value. That result becomes meaningful only when it is linked to the correct fabric face, wash durability, garment construction, intended climate and complementary drying or vapour-transfer data.

Textile development sequence from fibre and yarn selection through knitting, finishing and laundering to moisture-management verification.

Moisture management is created by the whole textile system, not fibre content alone.

What TM195 Does Not Tell Us

TM195 does not directly reproduce the complete human microclimate. It does not by itself measure sweat evaporation into moving air, water-vapour transmission, thermal resistance, garment fit, pressure at the skin, cling, chafing or the wearer’s subjective sensation. A fabric can move liquid efficiently yet still feel hot because of low air permeability or garment design. Conversely, a loosely constructed fabric may feel comfortable in mild activity even without a high directional-transport score.

This is why AATCC lists TM195 alongside separate moisture, wicking, drying and water-vapour test methods. Good product evaluation treats these tests as complementary pieces rather than competing claims.

Conclusion

AATCC TM195 is valuable because it separates the journey of liquid moisture into observable stages. It tells us when each face wets, how rapidly moisture content rises, how far and how quickly liquid spreads, whether transport is preferentially directed away from the skin, and how these behaviours combine in OMMC.

The most useful question is therefore not, “Which fabric has the highest OMMC?” It is, “Does this top-versus-bottom moisture pattern suit the garment, wearer, climate and use condition?” When read in that way, the test becomes more than a laboratory grade. It becomes a practical development tool for fibre selection, fabric engineering, finishing, quality assurance and truthful product communication.

Related Reading on My Textile Notes

Sources and Acknowledgement

General disclaimer: This article is for educational and technical understanding. Laboratories and suppliers should use the current authorised test method, calibrated equipment, agreed conditioning and sampling procedures, and buyer-approved specifications for commercial decisions.

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