Sunday, 21 March 2021

What are the Various Wild Silk Yarns



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  1. Reeled Tussar/ Tussar Raw Silk: It is reeled from Tussar cocoons using different appliance. Reeled Tussar is finer in nature.

  2. TussarGicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of Tussar cocoons without any twist.

  3. Tussar Katia: Yarn spun out of Tussar waste after opening and cleaning.

  4. Tussar Jhuri: Yarn spun out of uncleaned Tussar waste without subjecting it to opening and cleaning process.

  5. Balkal yarn: Yarn spun out of Tussar cocoon peduncles, after boiling in alkaline solution and opened up.

  6. Tussar Spun Silk: Yarn spun in the mill out of Tussar silk waste.

  7. Muga Raw Silk: Yarn reeled from Muga cocoons.

  8. Muga Gicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of muga cocoons without any twist.

  9. Hand Spun Endi/ Eri Silk: Yarn spun by hand appliances from Eri cocoons.

  10. Mill Spun Eri Yarn: Yarn spun in the mill from Eri cocoons.

You can find here the various wild silk fabrics and how to take care of silk. 

How Cocoons are measured in Wild Silk ( Vanya Silk)



 Tussar Cocoons:

The unit of measurement of tussar cocoons is Kahan. Number of Cocoons per Kahan vary in different states. In MP one Kahan has 1000 cocoons while in Maharashtra it has 4000 Cocoons. 

About 1200 cocoons are required to produce one kg of yarn. 

ERI

The Eri cocoons are measured on the basis of weight ( kg)

MUGA

The Muga cocoons are transacted in thousand numbers. About 5000 cocoons are required to produce 1 kg of Muga Raw Silk.

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What do you Mean by Vanya Silk



 Non mulberry silks such as Tussar, Muga and Eri are called Vanya silks. 

Production Trends ( 2010-11)

Vanya Silk contributed to about 20% of the total raw silk in India.

Eri, Tussar and Muga contributed to about 64%, 33% and 3% of the total Vanya silk

It contributes to about 10% of the total exports of silk goods 

Tussar Silk

Silk Worm : Antheraea mylitta and Antheraea proylei

Feed on: Asan,  Arjun and Oak

India is the second largest producer or Tussar Silk

History: Ram's nuptial gift to Sita included Tussar Silk

Muga Silk

Silk Worm : Antheraea assamensis

Feed on: Som and Sualu

Use of Muga Yarn instead of Zari is finding its support in Indian Weavers


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Thursday, 14 May 2020

Difference among Hand-knotted, Hand-tufted, Kilim and Durries



Hand Knotted Carpets

They are hand knotted on the stretched weft and fastened with a weft. 

Kilim

Kilims are woolen flat weaves with slits where the pattern begins or ends in a different colored yarn. 

Dhurries or Durries

These are Indian counterparts of Kilim. These are flat weaves traditionally woven in all Indian families. Here the yarn are joined during the weave so as not to create gaps and slits.

Hand Tufted

90% of the carpets are hand tufted carpets. In tufted carpets the pile appearance is similar to the knotted carpets but has lesser durability as the pile yarn is knot knotted and simply anchored in the base material. 

Hand Woven Carpets

It is a rather broad category that includes hand knotted carpets as well as flat weaves carpets ( Durries and Kilims) 

Quality

The quality of a mg is judged by its density. The more the number of knots per square inch, better the quality. Dense carpets are more durable and have finer and more detailed patterns. A very good quality knotted mg may have 350 to 1000 knots per square inch depending upon the material. 

A tufted carpet is not as durable and strong as the knotted one. Since it is a cheaper option, one must judge the kind of backing material and glue are used. Apart from this, the tightness of the tuft is the only thing that can ensure some life of the hand tufted carpets.

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