Some Important Textile Terminology: Voile, Cambric, Chiffon and Oxford Fabrics
This note explains a few important textile terms related to fabric construction, yarn type, twist, count, EPI, PPI and trade names. These terms are useful for textile students, merchandisers, buyers, fabric technologists and anyone trying to understand woven fabrics.
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1. Voile
Original Note:
Voile : It is a doubled yarn, high twiested with count range >60's . It has an square and open construction. The fabric made from it is light weight, transparent crispy and granular feel. It can be either cotton or p/c. Its trade name is 2x2 Rubia. 72 epi and 72ppi
Understanding Voile Fabric
Voile is generally a lightweight, sheer and crisp fabric. It is commonly made using fine, highly twisted yarns. The open and square construction gives the fabric transparency and a slightly crisp handle.
Technical Summary: Voile
- Yarn type: Doubled yarn
- Twist: High twist
- Count range: Above 60s
- Construction: Square and open construction
- Feel: Lightweight, transparent, crisp and granular
- Material: Cotton or Polyester/Cotton blend
- Trade name: 2x2 Rubia
- Typical construction: 72 EPI and 72 PPI
2. Cambric
Original Note:
Cambric: It is a single yarn, rest properties are same as cambric.
Understanding Cambric Fabric
Cambric is a fine, closely woven plain weave fabric. It is generally smoother and denser than voile. It is often used in shirting, handkerchiefs, children’s garments, linings and fine cotton dress materials.
Technical Summary: Cambric
- Yarn type: Single yarn
- Construction: Fine and closely woven
- Weave: Usually plain weave
- Feel: Smooth, soft and compact
- Transparency: Less transparent than voile
- Common use: Shirts, dress materials, linings and handkerchiefs
Clarification
In the original note, the phrase “rest properties are same as cambric” may be read as a typing repetition. In practical fabric terminology, cambric is understood as a fine, smooth, closely woven cotton fabric made from single yarn.
3. Shiffon / Chiffon
Original Note:
Shiffon: Here weft is highly twisted polyester filament (tpm 1440) and textured and warp is P/C ratio is 67:33
Understanding Chiffon Fabric
Chiffon is a sheer, lightweight and soft fabric. It is often made from highly twisted filament yarns. The high twist gives chiffon its slightly rough, crepe-like feel and flowing drape.
Spelling Note
“Shiffon” is commonly spelled as Chiffon.
Technical Summary: Chiffon
- Weft: Highly twisted polyester filament
- Twist level: TPM 1440
- Weft character: Textured
- Warp blend: Polyester/Cotton ratio 67:33
- Feel: Sheer, soft and flowing
- Common use: Sarees, dupattas, scarves, gowns and ladieswear
4. Oxford Classical
Original Note:
Oxford Classical : Warp 2/40's , weft 2/30's
Understanding Oxford Classical Fabric
Oxford fabric is generally used in shirting. It has a slightly heavier, more textured and structured appearance compared to fine plain weave shirting fabrics. Oxford fabrics are valued for durability and comfort.
Technical Summary: Oxford Classical
- Warp count: 2/40s
- Weft count: 2/30s
- Fabric character: Strong, structured and slightly textured
- Common use: Formal and casual shirts
5. Oxford Pinpoint
Original Note:
Oxford Pinpoint: Both warp and weft 2/80's, 144 ends/inch in grey and 60-62 ppi.
Understanding Oxford Pinpoint Fabric
Oxford Pinpoint is a finer version of Oxford fabric. It is smoother and more refined than classical Oxford. It is commonly used in better-quality formal shirts.
Technical Summary: Oxford Pinpoint
- Warp count: 2/80s
- Weft count: 2/80s
- Ends per inch: 144 ends/inch in grey fabric
- Picks per inch: 60–62 PPI
- Fabric character: Fine, smooth and refined
- Common use: Premium formal shirts
Comparison Table
| Fabric |
Yarn Type |
Construction |
Feel |
Transparency |
Common Use |
| Voile |
Doubled, high twist yarn |
Square and open |
Crisp and granular |
High |
Summer wear, curtains, lightweight garments |
| Cambric |
Single yarn |
Fine and closely woven |
Smooth and compact |
Low to medium |
Shirts, dress materials, linings |
| Chiffon |
Highly twisted filament yarn |
Light and sheer |
Soft, flowing and slightly crepe-like |
High |
Sarees, dupattas, gowns, scarves |
| Oxford Classical |
2/40s warp, 2/30s weft |
Textured shirting construction |
Structured and durable |
Low |
Casual and formal shirts |
| Oxford Pinpoint |
2/80s warp and weft |
Fine Oxford structure |
Smooth and refined |
Low |
Premium formal shirts |
Important Textile Terms Used in This Article
- EPI: Ends per inch. It indicates the number of warp yarns in one inch of fabric.
- PPI: Picks per inch. It indicates the number of weft yarns in one inch of fabric.
- Count: A measure of yarn fineness.
- TPM: Twists per metre. It indicates the twist level in yarn.
- P/C: Polyester/Cotton blend.
- Grey fabric: Fabric before dyeing, printing or finishing.
Practical Industry Application
These fabric terms are important for fabric sourcing, quality checking, merchandising, costing and product development. For example, a buyer selecting summer fabrics may prefer voile because of its lightweight and transparent nature, while a shirt manufacturer may choose Oxford Classical or Oxford Pinpoint depending on the price segment and desired fabric hand feel.
Possible Questions for Textile Students
- What is voile fabric?
- Differentiate between voile and cambric.
- What is the role of high twist in chiffon fabric?
- What is the difference between Oxford Classical and Oxford Pinpoint?
- What do EPI and PPI mean in woven fabric construction?
Keywords
Voile fabric meaning, cambric fabric, chiffon fabric construction, Oxford Classical fabric, Oxford Pinpoint fabric, EPI and PPI in textiles, textile terminology, woven fabric construction, fabric knowledge for merchandisers.
