Sunday, 15 May 2022

Some Notes on Sarees



1. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore. 

2. Saree Parts: How they are named in different states of the country. 

State Saree Border Body/Ground Outer end-piece Inner end-piece Selvedge End Fringe Parting-stripe of warp without Weft Sari Fold
Kerala Pudva Kara Udal Mundani, Anchalam Ullattam Vakka Allukk Madak
Karnataka Seere, Bond Kinar, Anchu, Patta Nadamu, Maidan Seregu, Pallav Lopala Kongu Ginta Javana, Jamada, Jawla Baddi, Badi Athari, Badhaggi, Kante Thojhalar Chotto Attri, Potta Athari, Badige Galinge
Goa Lugda, Kapad, Sado Kath Aang Bhailo, Pallov, Podar Bheetolo Pallov, Podar Kath Gone Dassi Ghadi
Maharashtra Baan, Lugda Ghadi, Mad, Kinar Dal, Garbh Padar, Patti Dhungan Patti Jeeb, Nakhi Punchra Dassi, Dasta Ghadi
Gujarat Lugda, Sadlo Kor, Phumro, Dhaburao Pate, Libhai, Bhoomi Saur, Chheda, Pallav Chilla Kantho, Kanar, Baid, Dhari Fumka Chiran Ghadi
MP and Chhattisgarh Jote, Lugda, Pata Kinar, Dhadi Peta, Deh, Zamin, Dharti, Howda Pallavan, Patta, Munh, Anchi, Jhela Kanihai Patti Dun, Dohra Patti Phunchra Chir Dhadi
UP Dhoti, Lugdi, Lugga, Sari Kinar, Bel Pote, Zameen Palloo, Palla, Anchal Tala, Deodhi Ke Baad Koria, Berai Jhalar Cheer Ghadi, Tehi
Bihar & Jharkhand Dhoti, Luga, Langa Paar, Kinar Zameen, Lapate, Hauz Aanchal, Mukpat Gajnautha Kor Dassi, Fudna Cheela Dhadi
West Bengal Bhaaj Paar, Payrey Jameen, Gaa, Khol, Pota Uni Aanchol, Aanchala Thol Aancal, Kolod, Kol Aal, Aanthi, Mulkandi, Aangot Chhela, Dosi Bhaaj, Guti Bhaaj
Odisha Dhoti, Saarhi, Luga Dhadi, Anthi Dehol, Dhola Moh, Mohna, kani, Dhassi Moha Dud, Dohra, Aghadi Chor, Jhalar Chir Chau Kerah, Chouta
Andhra Padesh Dhoti, Chire Anchu, Patti Nadamu Kongu, Kammi, Maijara Kattu Kongu Vara, Chiguru Kucchu, Lopala Knongu Madhulu Kongu Madatha
Tamil Nadu Selai, Podavai Karai Udal Mundani Ull Mundani Jamulu Kanni Kayar, Muduchi Badai Madipu

Friday, 6 May 2022

Difference between Salem Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram Kanjivarams



Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters. 

In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye  is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades. 

In Kanjivaram, stiffening is done during polishing as compared to Dharmavaram where softening is done. 

Dharmavaram sarees are cheaper than the Kanjivaram, because they use zari in warp as compared to Kanjivaram, that use pure silk. 

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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees



Polishing involves application of gum and winding the saree onto cloth rolls. The aim is to put the stiffness in the fabric. 

Polishing in Salem Kanjivaram sarees is done only for Powerloom sarees after they are made. The Gaund ( Gum ) is applied by hand after the saree is made before it is wound on the square planks. Then it is made to dry in the sunlight for about six hours. 

For handloom sarees, it is applied while it is made. After every one feet or more of weaving. The gum ( Pasai) is applied. 

In Dharmavaram, instead of stiffening, the softening is done, as it is mostly zari. They also use shampoo to make it shining. 

In Handloom fabrics in Dharmavaram, they use bisleri water to make it shining. 

Tuesday, 12 April 2022

Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree



Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs.
Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                      :               1200 x 30 = 36000 Rs.  ( Price of one Mark: 1200 Rs.)
Zari Mark for Sarees Weft                                                       :                1200 x 10 = 12000 Rs. 
Design & Punching Cards                                                       :                13000+2000 = 15000 Rs
( 240 Hooks each on Border, 
Pallu, 2 x Body: total 4 Jacquards) 
Silk for Body 10 Sarees  (18-20 denier 2 ply)                       :                 2 kg x 6000  = 12000 Rs.
Silk For Border 10 Sarees                                                      :                 1 kg x 6000  = 6000 Rs. 
Dyeing                                                                                    :                                        = 1500 Rs. 

Total                                                                                        :                  1,07,500

All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees



These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:

1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.  

1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari

This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nylon to make the final product. Used in the lowest qualities of Varanasi sarees specially in Dupions. Normally price is about 250 to 300 Rs. per mark. 

2. German Silver Zari

This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark. 

3. German Silk Fast Zari

This is generally used in the medium price Kanjivaram Sarees. Generally the denier is about 30. Here the core is pure silk, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 1200 Rs. per mark. 

4. Half Fine Zari

This is generally used in the premium Kanjivaram Sarees. The gold content is about 0.01% (1gm) to 0.02%(2gm) per kg of copper. The Silk yarn is used in the core. The price is between 1800 -2200 Rs.  per mark. 

5. Pure Zari

It is made only on order Silk yarn is used as core, over that silver and than plated with gold. In one of the test reports, the following were the results: Gold 0.13, Silver: 18.42 and copper 56.61. 

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