Some Notes on Sarees

1. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore. 

2. Saree Parts: How they are named in different states of the country. 

State	Saree	Border	Body/Ground	Outer end-piece	Inner end-piece	Selvedge	End Fringe	Parting-stripe of warp without Weft	Sari Fold
Kerala	Pudva	Kara	Udal	Mundani, Anchalam	Ullattam	Vakka	Allukk		Madak
Karnataka	Seere, Bond	Kinar, Anchu, Patta	Nadamu, Maidan	Seregu, Pallav	Lopala Kongu	Ginta Javana, Jamada, Jawla	Baddi, Badi Athari, Badhaggi, Kante Thojhalar	Chotto Attri, Potta Athari, Badige	Galinge
Goa	Lugda, Kapad, Sado	Kath	Aang	Bhailo, Pallov, Podar	Bheetolo Pallov, Podar	Kath	Gone	Dassi	Ghadi
Maharashtra	Baan, Lugda	Ghadi, Mad, Kinar	Dal, Garbh	Padar, Patti	Dhungan Patti	Jeeb, Nakhi	Punchra	Dassi, Dasta	Ghadi
Gujarat	Lugda, Sadlo	Kor, Phumro, Dhaburao	Pate, Libhai, Bhoomi	Saur, Chheda, Pallav	Chilla	Kantho, Kanar, Baid, Dhari	Fumka	Chiran	Ghadi
MP and Chhattisgarh	Jote, Lugda, Pata	Kinar, Dhadi	Peta, Deh, Zamin, Dharti, Howda	Pallavan, Patta, Munh, Anchi, Jhela	Kanihai Patti	Dun, Dohra Patti	Phunchra	Chir	Dhadi
UP	Dhoti, Lugdi, Lugga, Sari	Kinar, Bel	Pote, Zameen	Palloo, Palla, Anchal	Tala, Deodhi Ke Baad	Koria, Berai	Jhalar	Cheer	Ghadi, Tehi
Bihar & Jharkhand	Dhoti, Luga, Langa	Paar, Kinar	Zameen, Lapate, Hauz	Aanchal, Mukpat	Gajnautha	Kor	Dassi, Fudna	Cheela	Dhadi
West Bengal	Bhaaj	Paar, Payrey	Jameen, Gaa, Khol, Pota	Uni Aanchol, Aanchala	Thol Aancal, Kolod, Kol	Aal, Aanthi, Mulkandi, Aangot	Chhela, Dosi		Bhaaj, Guti Bhaaj
Odisha	Dhoti, Saarhi, Luga	Dhadi, Anthi	Dehol, Dhola	Moh, Mohna, kani, Dhassi	Moha	Dud, Dohra, Aghadi	Chor, Jhalar	Chir	Chau Kerah, Chouta
Andhra Padesh	Dhoti, Chire	Anchu, Patti	Nadamu	Kongu, Kammi, Maijara	Kattu Kongu	Vara, Chiguru	Kucchu, Lopala Knongu	Madhulu Kongu	Madatha
Tamil Nadu	Selai, Podavai	Karai	Udal	Mundani	Ull Mundani	Jamulu	Kanni Kayar, Muduchi	Badai	Madipu

Difference between Salem Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram Kanjivarams

Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters. 

In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye  is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades. 

In Kanjivaram, stiffening is done during polishing as compared to Dharmavaram where softening is done. 

Dharmavaram sarees are cheaper than the Kanjivaram, because they use zari in warp as compared to Kanjivaram, that use pure silk. 

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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees

Polishing involves application of gum and winding the saree onto cloth rolls. The aim is to put the stiffness in the fabric. 

Polishing in Salem Kanjivaram sarees is done only for Powerloom sarees after they are made. The Gaund ( Gum ) is applied by hand after the saree is made before it is wound on the square planks. Then it is made to dry in the sunlight for about six hours. 

For handloom sarees, it is applied while it is made. After every one feet or more of weaving. The gum ( Pasai) is applied. 

In Dharmavaram, instead of stiffening, the softening is done, as it is mostly zari. They also use shampoo to make it shining. 

In Handloom fabrics in Dharmavaram, they use bisleri water to make it shining. 

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Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree

Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs.

Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                      :               1200 x 30 = 36000 Rs.  ( Price of one Mark: 1200 Rs.)

Zari Mark for Sarees Weft                                                       :                1200 x 10 = 12000 Rs. 

Design & Punching Cards                                                       :                13000+2000 = 15000 Rs

( 240 Hooks each on Border, 

Pallu, 2 x Body: total 4 Jacquards) 

Silk for Body 10 Sarees  (18-20 denier 2 ply)                       :                 2 kg x 6000  = 12000 Rs.

Silk For Border 10 Sarees                                                      :                 1 kg x 6000  = 6000 Rs. 

Dyeing                                                                                    :                                        = 1500 Rs. 

Total                                                                                        :                  1,07,500

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All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees

These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:

1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.  

1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari

This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nylon to make the final product. Used in the lowest qualities of Varanasi sarees specially in Dupions. Normally price is about 250 to 300 Rs. per mark. 

2. German Silver Zari

This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark. 

3. German Silk Fast Zari

This is generally used in the medium price Kanjivaram Sarees. Generally the denier is about 30. Here the core is pure silk, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 1200 Rs. per mark. 

4. Half Fine Zari

This is generally used in the premium Kanjivaram Sarees. The gold content is about 0.01% (1gm) to 0.02%(2gm) per kg of copper. The Silk yarn is used in the core. The price is between 1800 -2200 Rs.  per mark. 

5. Pure Zari

It is made only on order Silk yarn is used as core, over that silver and than plated with gold. In one of the test reports, the following were the results: Gold 0.13, Silver: 18.42 and copper 56.61. 

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