Sunday, 8 March 2015

Measurement ( Specification) Sheet of a Typical Churidar Kameez ( SKD)








Sunday, 1 March 2015

Mens Short Kurta Specification Sheet









Thursday, 12 February 2015

What is Can-can Fabric



These fabrics are stiff and extensively used for giving  volume to base of  lehengas and suits. These normally are manufactured from nylon and polyester.


Tuesday, 10 February 2015

Vocabulary of Indian Traditional Design



Doriya

The simplest pattern is the stripe; when the stripes are longitudinal, the fabric is a Doria

Salaidar

when the stripes run along the  patterns. breadth, the fabric is Salaidar


Ara Doriya

when the lines are diagonal, it is ara doriya

Khanjari and Laharia

When the line is wavy and angular, the pattern IS  Khanjari and the Cloth is called Khanjaridar. Khanjari is sometimes called Laharia, but the latter is larger, and usually has rounded  corners


Mothra

A double line containing a Simple or running pattern inside, IS called a mothra


Charkhana


When the stripes run both Horizontally  and vertically, we have a check (charkhana), which can be either square or rectangular.


Ilayecha and Bulbul Chashm

A set of small lozenge-shaped figures form the Ilayecha pattern. The same kinds of figures enclosing dots of some material are called Bulbul chashm


Bel

A 'bel is a running floral pattern, with a width of a few inches, and in its length a simple repeated over again. In the sample it is a Khajuri Bel.  The bel pattern may also be designated the creeper pattern.


Fulwar and Vascat

If there is a running pattern of leaves and flowers all over the groundwork of the fabric, the pattern is phulwar ; in some kinds of fabrics, where it is raised slightly above the ground-work of the fabric and is of the same colour as the groundwork, it is called Vascat (See the picture)


Ari Bel

When the bel, instead of running in a straight line and parallel to the border, goes diagonally or in undulating lines, it is called' Ari bel.

Buti

A buti is a single flower or figure, not joined to a running pattern

Pan Buti

A pan buti is heart shaped; it is essential to a bridal chddar.

Turanj, Kalghi Butti and Kalgha Buta

A turanj is the characteristic buti in shawl patterns; when the pointed end is turned round and further adorned, it is a Kalghi Butti or (if large) kalgha buta 


Fardi Buti

A fardi buti is one in which the effect is produced by points or dot.


Tin Pankha and Sat Pankha

There is a fan-like buti which is called after the number of petals it contains ; thus tin-pankha, three-leaved, sat-pankha, seven-leaved ( See picture Below)


Tara Buti

Tara Buti,  a circular or square Butti supposed to resemble a star


Jamewar Butti

The Jamewar Butti resembles the conventional representations of bushes in the landscape of old pictures


Ashrafi Buti

Ashrafi buti is a gold buti of circular shape


Buti Jhardar

Buti jhar-dar is an ambitious butti, comprising a whole sprig or branch


Butti Minatashi

Butti minatashi is any of  these or the proceeding buttis worked in different coloured silks in a gold cloth.


Phool Buti

Then there are the phul buttis (flower butis) called after the various flowers; such as chameli (Jasmine), gul daudi (Chrysanthemum) ; genda' (Marigold); if any of these bUtis is worked in a bel pattern, with a creeper, the bel
would be called by a similar name, e.g. gende ki bel etc.

Jal

A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures,  such a pattern is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc.


Jangla

A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures,  such a pattern is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc. This is the basic difference between Jal and Jangla.



Source: A monograph on Silk Fabric- NW Provinces and Oudh by A. Yusuf Ali
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