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The simplest pattern is the stripe; when the stripes are longitudinal, the fabric is a Doria
when the stripes run along the patterns. breadth, the fabric is Salaidar
when the lines are diagonal, it is ara doriya
Khanjari and Laharia
When the line is wavy and angular, the pattern IS Khanjari and the Cloth is called Khanjaridar. Khanjari is sometimes called Laharia, but the latter is larger, and usually has rounded corners
A double line containing a Simple or running pattern inside, IS called a mothra
When the stripes run both Horizontally and vertically, we have a check (charkhana), which can be either square or rectangular.
Ilayecha and Bulbul Chashm
A set of small lozenge-shaped figures form the Ilayecha pattern. The same kinds of figures enclosing dots of some material are called Bulbul chashm
A 'bel is a running floral pattern, with a width of a few inches, and in its length a simple repeated over again. In the sample it is a Khajuri Bel. The bel pattern may also be designated the creeper pattern.
Fulwar and Vascat
If there is a running pattern of leaves and flowers all over the groundwork of the fabric, the pattern is phulwar ; in some kinds of fabrics, where it is raised slightly above the ground-work of the fabric and is of the same colour as the groundwork, it is called Vascat (See the picture)
When the bel, instead of running in a straight line and parallel to the border, goes diagonally or in undulating lines, it is called' Ari bel.
A buti is a single flower or figure, not joined to a running pattern
A pan buti is heart shaped; it is essential to a bridal chddar.
Turanj, Kalghi Butti and Kalgha Buta
A turanj is the characteristic buti in shawl patterns; when the pointed end is turned round and further adorned, it is a Kalghi Butti or (if large) kalgha buta
A fardi buti is one in which the effect is produced by points or dot.
Tin Pankha and Sat Pankha
There is a fan-like buti which is called after the number of petals it contains ; thus tin-pankha, three-leaved, sat-pankha, seven-leaved ( See picture Below)
Tara Buti, a circular or square Butti supposed to resemble a star
The Jamewar Butti resembles the conventional representations of bushes in the landscape of old pictures
Ashrafi buti is a gold buti of circular shape
Buti jhar-dar is an ambitious butti, comprising a whole sprig or branch
Butti minatashi is any of these or the proceeding buttis worked in different coloured silks in a gold cloth.
Then there are the phul buttis (flower butis) called after the various flowers; such as chameli (Jasmine), gul daudi (Chrysanthemum) ; genda' (Marigold); if any of these bUtis is worked in a bel pattern, with a creeper, the bel
would be called by a similar name, e.g. gende ki bel etc.
A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures, such a pattern is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc.
A further development in patterns is to enclose a butti in a network of geometrical pattern in compartments or closed figures, such a pattern is called jal, and would be distinguished thus: jal wich turanj buti, i.e. jal enclosing turanj buti, etc. This is the basic difference between Jal and Jangla.
Source: A monograph on Silk Fabric- NW Provinces and Oudh by A. Yusuf Ali