Thursday, 18 December 2014

What is Unique about Ponduru Khadi

This Khadi is produced from Ponduru, a village in Srikakulum district in North Andhra Pradesh.

The uniqueness about this fabric is the fiber. It is produced from a special variety of cotton called Punas cotton, hill white cotton and red cotton. The cotton is of very short staple length produced in Srikakulum area.

The second uniqueness about this fabric is the method of spinning.

The raw seeded cotton is ginned with the help of Valuga fish jawbone. This fish is only found in that area. Then it is fluffed and smoothed with the help of fine sticks which also remove the waste.

Slivering is done with a bow and carding is done with the help of a wooden machine. The slivers are handmade and kept in a dried banana stem.

This is one of the only places where still single spindle charkha is used for spinning. Yarn upto 120s count can be spun in white cotton while upto 60s can be spun with red cotton.

Reference: 1

Sunday, 14 December 2014

Indian Saris - New Book by Priyank Goyal


This book has come out after a constant search for details related to Indian traditional saris and with the experience of the author dealing with these saris as a category manager, buyer and merchandiser. This is the first volume of the series. In this volume a total of sixteen saris from different parts of India are presented. The brief is kept to the point and as simple as possible. Each chapter starts with one sari and a picture of that sari. The book is kept free from the clutter of the myths and stories associated with the saris. Technical parameters such as count, construction and weaving techniques are given for each of the saris. 

This is helpful for someone who wants to get the knowledge of all different types of Indian saris at one place. This is going to help immensely the students of Indian Traditional Textiles, researchers, merchandisers of saris and general textile enthusiast.


Wednesday, 10 December 2014

What is Laser Cut Fabric

As the technology is evolving, newer uses of the industrial application are finding their ways into art and design. One such way is creating designs by way of laser cutting of fabrics.

Laser cutting is a misnomer, as the laser never "cuts" the material rather it sears, burns or evaporates the material. In the process, it also seals the edges of the material, stopping it from fraying on the process.


It is a trendy fashion cut that enhances the charm of the fabric. Traditionally it was done on a limited scale, but with the advent of laser cutting, is done on a grand scale.

Laser cutting can also be used to create multiple layer effect applique by placing multiple pieces of fabric together, then cutting each by laser as necessary.
Jeans Engraving

It is a type of laser cutting, in which the top surface of the jeans is vapourised and by making the changes in the laser beam according to the requirement, an image can be generated.

Monday, 8 December 2014

What is Scroop Finish

Scroop is a term used commonly as a finish with synthetic fibers and silk. 

In case of silk scroop is the crunchy feel as well as rustly sound that is produced in the fiber on use. Scroop is like the feeling of squeezing a big bag of corn starch or stepping down into a very powdery snow. 

Scroop is not an inherent property of silk. 

Scroop can be induced in silk in two ways:

One way is to leave the gum of the silk (sericin) behind and not remove it. Sericin has a high coefficient of friction and hence resists the easy sliding of fibers one over the other. Vibrations created by friction produce the sound. 

The other way is by treating silk with organic acid such as formic, lactic, citric or acetic acid in a concentration of 2-4 ml/l and drying without washing. 

In case of synthetic fibers, cohesive agents are used to increase the fiber-to-fiber friction. However, it will increase a property called scroop. The attribute is so named, because of the sound that the staple bundle makes when it is squeezed. It is caused by resistance to the fiber movement that results from the increase in friction between the fibers. If a fabric is made from a yarn having high scroop level- a harsh handle is produced. 

Reference: This is an amazing reading on silk by MIT

* By the way - Unrelated to the post- Cashmilon is made of acrylic and not nylon. 
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