Tuesday, 16 June 2015

Simple Kameez Vs. A-Line



Draft of an A-line is the same as that of Simple Kameez. A line can be stitched with or without darts as there is no shaping at the waist.

Generally round hem has a two inch ease than than the round hip measurement for a garment without flare. 

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Uppada Jamdani Sari



In Uppada style of weaving, the design is two sided and when the surface of the cloth is touched, the design cannot be felt separately from the cloth.

The design is woven into the goods by using ada, jala and a number of Tilis.

There are no loose threads on either side and no dobbys or jacquards are used. 

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Thursday, 21 May 2015

IMPROVING FABRIC AND GARMENT DURABILITY



Note: This article is contributed by Jahangeer Mengal, a student of B.E. Textile Engineering. Jahangir also writes a blog at textilewithme.blogspot.com

Please see the Facebook page related to this article here.

For consumers, durability or serviceability is one of the primary prerequisites for dressing, alongside ease-of-consideration, elegance (style) and comfort. Durability is a measure of the reasonable wear life of an item and is a mind boggling capacity of various variables that lessen the serviceability and adequacy of the item, including abrasion (flat and flex), tearing, rupturing, bowing, extending, changes in appearance, laundering and cleaning. For example, Stoll (1949) expressed that the wear of army uniforms included 30% plane (flat) abrasion, 20% edge and projection abrasion, 20% flexing and collapsing, 20% tear and 10% other mechanical activities. Due to this, wear variables need to be assessed inside of the connection of the necessities of the particular end use for the fabric and garment. As for dress, aspects identifying with the general appearance of the fabric and garment for the most part overwhelm. 

The durability of a garment relies on the properties of the fabric as well as the conditions it experiences amid wear (even the attack of a garment on account of apparel), and laundering. For apparel fabrics and garments, imperviousness to abrasion has a tendency to be more imperative than strength as a marker of durability. Abrasion amid utilization not just adds to the disappointment of the fabric and garment, yet all the more generally adds to changes in fabric appearance, for example, fuzzing, pilling, icing (color change) and "shine" (making it look old or ugly). Often, the purchaser will consider a fabric to have come to the end of its helpful life on the basis of appearance instead of mechanical disappointment, for example, tearing or rupturing. Then again, changes in fiber and fabric structure can gainfully affect certain segments of durability (e.g. flat abrasion resistance) while unfavorably affecting others (e.g. tear strength), requiring trade off and optimization. Fabric and garment durability and wear performance are dictated by the fiber sort and properties, yarn fabric and garment construction, and any chemical and/or mechanical treatment connected to the yarn, fabric or garment. By and by, mechanical damage or breakdown is by and large more imperative than chemical damage (counting damage because of laundering and light) in deciding wear life. On account of this, wear conditions – including the size, shape, occupation and exercises of the wearer, as well as laundering and drying – have a noteworthy impact on the wear life of a garment.

 It is frequently hard to recognize such components and fabric inadequacies when endeavoring to distinguish the reasons for garment disappointment amid utilization. Frequently, variations among wearers and wear conditions are more imperative than variations in the fabrics or garments themselves in deciding wear performance and durability. Such wear for the most part happens at limited locales of the garment, for example, at the seats of jeans, elbows of coats and pullovers, and collars and sleeves of shirts, dependent upon the rough powers (greatness, recurrence and length of time) forced on the garment by the wearer, and the wear conditions, including those overall amid laundering. The moisture and sweat substance of the garment can likewise affect the degree of wear and abrasion.

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Friday, 1 May 2015

A few Notes about Pashmina



1. Pashmina is also knows as Cashmere.

2. China is the major producer of Pashmina with more than 70% of the world produce. India produces less than 1%

3. Price of Raw Pashmina is greater than 10-15 times than that of a find Merino cross bred wool. This hike goes more than 30-40 times for scoured Pashmina than that of Merino wool.

4. There are 25% outer hair that need to be removed before getting Pashmina.

5. Pashmina is spun by hand. It is also being now spun on machine by mixing 50/50 with Nylon which is than later dissolved using hydrogen chloride. The quality of machine spun Pashmina is slightly less than that of Handspun yarn. It is also spun using PVA- which is then dissolved using hot water.

6. Weight of Pashmina shawl is about 200 grams with EPI and PPI as 50-60 and 46-56 respecively.

7. Pashmina is dyed using acid or metal complex dyes.




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