Sunday, 12 June 2016

Jamnagri Bandhani



Jamnagri Bandhani Technique is an ancient tie-and-dye technique practised in the regions of Saurashtra and Kutchh in Gujarat of India.

In this process, the fabric is tied in various patterns using nails, beads or grain which prevent the color from coming in these tied areas during dyeing.

You can go through the complete process here. However, briefly the process is as follows:

a. The bleached cloth is printed with design using wooden blocks.




b. The cloth is then rolled and tied using thick threads, wound usually an interval of one inch. The process is done by women. The dots to be resist dyed are pushed up from the reverse side of the cloth by the nails of artisan's left small finger, then the heads of the pushed up parts are tightly tied in knots. Cotton threads are used for knots.

c. Then dyeing commences. The first shade before tying is yellow shade. Then it is dyed in other colors.

A few of the products using Jamnagri Bandhani Technique are mentioned here

1. Panetar

Panetar is a white saree with red tie-dye border. Traditionally in Gujarat region, the wife wears panetar saree gifted from her mother's brother. Later she wears the Gharchola sari gifted by her in-laws.




2. Gharchola

Gharchola is white and yellow tie-dyed on a red background with checked pattern of gold plated thread. It has auspicious patterns like elephant, flowers and mango.

3. Virbhol


4. Barbaug


Sources: 1 2 3 4 5 
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Monday, 23 May 2016

My New Book on Indian Saris



My new book on Indian Saris is out. This is the second volume. Please let me know your feedback.



 

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Saturday, 21 May 2016

Basic Quality Parameters of Handloom Products including Sarees



India Handloom is an initiative by the Ministry of Textile to bring the best of the handloom products to the users. They have produced a table of the basic quality parameters of the handloom fabrics, specifically sarees. 

It is useful for buyers of traditional sarees who would like to know the quality parameters such as count, constructions, length, width and fabric for Indian traditional sarees. 

7 August is celebrated as the National Handloom Day. 

To download, you can go to this link or  this link.

They have also published a list of registered users which can be a treasure for any sourcing professional.

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Sunday, 15 May 2016

Charkha or Hand Spinning Wheel



Charkha is not only synonymous with Khadi, it is also the soul of Indian Subcontinent. It reminds one of the good old villages and the simple life there. One cannot just love but feel from one's core this heart rendering song from Ustad Nusrat Fatah Ali Khan in Punjabi. I have give the translation in English.

Listen to this song from great mastero here...


Translation ( Source)

Listen oh sound of the spinning wheel I remember my love, my heart laments for my beloved... 
When will the new moon of my love rise When will you come home beloved Sorrows are intolerable and life hopeless...
 when beloved arrives I will rejoice I will unfurl my glances in his direction This separation is life threatening ...
 relatives have started hurting with their words do write letter with the date of your arrival dark night bites hurting with its sting...
my tears keep flowing constantly as I gather the thread spundo not like laughter these days how can I forget his behavior...

Charkha is embedded in the Sufism of our subcontinent, from Kabir to now...it is a source of inspiration of many songs. Listen to this song from Lakhwinder Wasdali and Puran Sing



This is an ode to Charkha from Rahet Fatah Ali Khan


A Beautiful song from Harjit Harman


And of course - there is a spinning wheel at every corner ( Chappa Chappa Charkha Chale)


There are many, the fact remains that spinning wheel has penetrated deep from culture to our hearts.

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