Sunday, 15 May 2022

Some Notes on Sarees



1. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore. 

2. Saree Parts: How they are named in different states of the country. 

State Saree Border Body/Ground Outer end-piece Inner end-piece Selvedge End Fringe Parting-stripe of warp without Weft Sari Fold
Kerala Pudva Kara Udal Mundani, Anchalam Ullattam Vakka Allukk Madak
Karnataka Seere, Bond Kinar, Anchu, Patta Nadamu, Maidan Seregu, Pallav Lopala Kongu Ginta Javana, Jamada, Jawla Baddi, Badi Athari, Badhaggi, Kante Thojhalar Chotto Attri, Potta Athari, Badige Galinge
Goa Lugda, Kapad, Sado Kath Aang Bhailo, Pallov, Podar Bheetolo Pallov, Podar Kath Gone Dassi Ghadi
Maharashtra Baan, Lugda Ghadi, Mad, Kinar Dal, Garbh Padar, Patti Dhungan Patti Jeeb, Nakhi Punchra Dassi, Dasta Ghadi
Gujarat Lugda, Sadlo Kor, Phumro, Dhaburao Pate, Libhai, Bhoomi Saur, Chheda, Pallav Chilla Kantho, Kanar, Baid, Dhari Fumka Chiran Ghadi
MP and Chhattisgarh Jote, Lugda, Pata Kinar, Dhadi Peta, Deh, Zamin, Dharti, Howda Pallavan, Patta, Munh, Anchi, Jhela Kanihai Patti Dun, Dohra Patti Phunchra Chir Dhadi
UP Dhoti, Lugdi, Lugga, Sari Kinar, Bel Pote, Zameen Palloo, Palla, Anchal Tala, Deodhi Ke Baad Koria, Berai Jhalar Cheer Ghadi, Tehi
Bihar & Jharkhand Dhoti, Luga, Langa Paar, Kinar Zameen, Lapate, Hauz Aanchal, Mukpat Gajnautha Kor Dassi, Fudna Cheela Dhadi
West Bengal Bhaaj Paar, Payrey Jameen, Gaa, Khol, Pota Uni Aanchol, Aanchala Thol Aancal, Kolod, Kol Aal, Aanthi, Mulkandi, Aangot Chhela, Dosi Bhaaj, Guti Bhaaj
Odisha Dhoti, Saarhi, Luga Dhadi, Anthi Dehol, Dhola Moh, Mohna, kani, Dhassi Moha Dud, Dohra, Aghadi Chor, Jhalar Chir Chau Kerah, Chouta
Andhra Padesh Dhoti, Chire Anchu, Patti Nadamu Kongu, Kammi, Maijara Kattu Kongu Vara, Chiguru Kucchu, Lopala Knongu Madhulu Kongu Madatha
Tamil Nadu Selai, Podavai Karai Udal Mundani Ull Mundani Jamulu Kanni Kayar, Muduchi Badai Madipu

Friday, 6 May 2022

Difference between Salem Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram Kanjivarams



Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters. 

In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye  is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades. 

In Kanjivaram, stiffening is done during polishing as compared to Dharmavaram where softening is done. 

Dharmavaram sarees are cheaper than the Kanjivaram, because they use zari in warp as compared to Kanjivaram, that use pure silk. 

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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees



Polishing involves application of gum and winding the saree onto cloth rolls. The aim is to put the stiffness in the fabric. 

Polishing in Salem Kanjivaram sarees is done only for Powerloom sarees after they are made. The Gaund ( Gum ) is applied by hand after the saree is made before it is wound on the square planks. Then it is made to dry in the sunlight for about six hours. 

For handloom sarees, it is applied while it is made. After every one feet or more of weaving. The gum ( Pasai) is applied. 

In Dharmavaram, instead of stiffening, the softening is done, as it is mostly zari. They also use shampoo to make it shining. 

In Handloom fabrics in Dharmavaram, they use bisleri water to make it shining. 

Tuesday, 12 April 2022

Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree



Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs.
Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                      :               1200 x 30 = 36000 Rs.  ( Price of one Mark: 1200 Rs.)
Zari Mark for Sarees Weft                                                       :                1200 x 10 = 12000 Rs. 
Design & Punching Cards                                                       :                13000+2000 = 15000 Rs
( 240 Hooks each on Border, 
Pallu, 2 x Body: total 4 Jacquards) 
Silk for Body 10 Sarees  (18-20 denier 2 ply)                       :                 2 kg x 6000  = 12000 Rs.
Silk For Border 10 Sarees                                                      :                 1 kg x 6000  = 6000 Rs. 
Dyeing                                                                                    :                                        = 1500 Rs. 

Total                                                                                        :                  1,07,500

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