Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
1. Knife guard should be adjusted according to the height of the lay.
2. The correct position of the blade, its sharpness and the reciprocating speed of the machine should be ensued.
3. Cut the lay of fabric by propelling the cutting machine on the marking line with accuracy.
4. Projections for each pattern section should be provided to facilitate the sorter in numbering the cut sections.
5. Provide notches at appropriate places with required depth.
6. Mark the position of pockets, embroidery, logo etc. by drilling small hole through the lay with correct drill bit .
7. Frayed, serrated, fused or scorched edges, ripped or pulled yarns, overcut and undercut should be avoided while cutting.
8. On Bend knife machine, use ready patterns aided by appropriate fixtures for carrying out precision cutting.
9. Sections which need to be cut individually (e.g. checks to be aligned in the front panel) are to be respread and folded by aligning the checks/stripes.
10. Use appropriate fixtures to ensure the matching of the folded sections.
11. Discard the cut scrap into the caster bins positioned near the table.
12. Tie the cut lay along the cut sections of the master marker in a bundle.
13. Erase the splicing and the end marks after the spread is cut and bundled.
Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting
a. Areas near cutting tables should be clearly marked, and their access restricted should be restricted by barriers.
b. On motorised and automatic cutting tables the warning signals should be fitted to indicate when blade is in motion.
c. The machine ideally should be fitted with automatic adjustable guards to fully cover the exposed part of the cutting blade.
f. The five finger chain blades should be available to all the operator working on knife and should be worn on all times during cutting work.
g. There should be a regular check on the condition of the light, guard, and table fittings.
h. Only fully trained operatives should be allowed to work on knives.
i. The operators' standards should be checked against the published operating practice on a regular basis and should be corrected wherever a deviation is found.
j. There should be an effective cleaning system in operation that prevents build up of fluff, fly and off cuts, thus reducing fire, health & trip hazards?
Spreading is an operation in which bolts of fabrics are unrolled on a table in such a way in order to produce a multi-layer stack, so as to facilitate cutting.
Fabrics usually contain many defects. The defects in pieces which are cut into patterns are highly undesirable. To avoid this, the spreading operator must identify and cut out defects as the material is being spread on the table. However, if the material is cut in the mid of the pattern, it will lead to more material wastage.
To avoid this, zones are defined called splice zones, where cuts can be made by the spreading operator. Also it is also required to decide about the overlap of the next section of cloth. Thus there are two lines in a splice zone: One line shows how far the previous piece of cloth must extend, and one line shows where the next piece of the cloth must begin, ie how much overlap is needed.
Thus when a flaw is encountered, the spreader is stopped, the operator moves back to the nearest splice point, cuts the flaw out and moves the spreader back to overlap the cut line with the required overlap.
Apart from cutting out defects, splices are also used to achieve proper shade matching when starting a new roll of cloth.
Thus the splicing points are marked by means of a chalk or paint.
2.Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine fabrics are being spread
3.Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers
4.Use lubricated paper for separating layers
a.To prevent scorching in the natural fibers ( coarse fabrics)
b.To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics
5.Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.
6.How to spread
a.Mount the bolt on the machine
b.Pull the fabric to far end position
c.Position the fabric at the far end ( with our without weight or pins)
d.Align the ply ( width on one side)
e.Cut the ply after each lay
f.Repeat this process from b-e until the entire bolt is spread.
g.Check ply count
h.Repeat a and then b to g till the decided number of ply are spread
i.Mark the remnants of the bolts with length in meters and bolt number and stack separately at the given place.
7.How to Splice
a.When the ends of the patterns in a marker are joined on both sides by straight line then use the single line splicing. Make sure that overlapping at this point should be about 2”
b.When the ends of the patterns in a marker interlock at a common vertical line across the width then use two line marking with a diagonal indicating common area that must be overlapped when patterns in a marker interlock at a common vertical line across the width.
8.When the required height of lay is achieved, place the marker on the spread and secure it by means of brass pins on each pattern section.
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Cutting is one of the most important operations in garment manufacturing because it converts a fabric lay into garment components. Once the fabric has been inspected, relaxed if required, and spread according to the marker, the cutting operation separates the lay into parts such as fronts, backs, sleeves, collars, waistbands, linings, facings and other components.
The quality of cutting has a direct effect on garment fit, size consistency, seam matching, fabric utilisation and final appearance. Even if the sewing operation is carefully done, a poorly cut component can create defects that are difficult or impossible to correct later. Cutting should therefore be treated as a control point, not merely as a mechanical operation.
Fabric cutting means separating the fabric lay into accurately shaped garment parts according to the marker. The marker is the cutting plan that shows the arrangement of pattern pieces on the fabric width. A good marker aims to maintain correct grain direction, reduce wastage and ensure that all garment components are available in the required sizes and quantities.
In simple terms, the cutting room links fabric planning with sewing production. If the fabric is spread correctly and cut accurately, sewing becomes smoother and garment measurements remain closer to specification. If cutting is inaccurate, the sewing department may face problems such as unequal panels, mismatched seams, distorted shapes and size variation.
Hand shears are the simplest tools used for cutting fabric. They are normally used for single-ply or very low-ply cutting, especially in tailoring, boutiques, sampling, alteration work and made-to-measure garments. Since the tool is manually controlled, the operator can follow small details, curves and delicate areas with flexibility.
The main advantage of hand shears is low investment. No power supply, machine table or special maintenance is required. They are also useful when the production quantity is small or when the fabric is too delicate to be handled in a thick lay.
However, hand cutting is slow and highly dependent on the skill of the cutter. The accuracy may vary from piece to piece, especially when several garments are required in the same size. For this reason, hand shears are suitable for sample rooms and small-scale tailoring, but not for high-volume industrial production.
3. Straight Knife Cutting Machine
The straight knife cutting machine is one of the most commonly used machines in garment cutting rooms. It has a vertical blade that moves up and down while the operator guides the machine along the marker line. The base plate of the machine moves under the fabric lay, while the blade cuts through the plies.
A straight knife machine is popular because it is versatile. It can cut large panels, medium curves and many general garment components. It is suitable for medium to high lays, depending on the fabric type, blade size and machine capacity.
The machine combines mechanical cutting with manual guidance. The motor drives the knife, but the operator controls the direction and speed. Therefore, the final accuracy still depends on the operator’s skill, blade condition, lay height, fabric stability and careful handling of curves and corners.
Straight knife cutting is widely used because it gives a good balance of cost, speed and flexibility. It is especially useful in regular garment production where many different shapes have to be cut from the same lay.
4. Round Knife Cutting Machine
A round knife cutting machine uses a circular rotating blade. The blade rotates continuously and cuts the fabric as the machine is moved along the cutting line. It is useful for straight lines, gentle curves, trimming operations and section cutting.
The main advantage of a round knife is speed. It can cut long straight lines quickly and is useful when the garment components have simple shapes. It is also convenient for separating sections of the lay before more accurate cutting is done by another method.
The limitation of a round knife is its reduced ability to cut sharp curves and intricate shapes. Since the blade is circular, it does not easily negotiate tight turns such as necklines, armholes, small notches or complex pattern edges. It is therefore not the best choice for highly shaped components.
Visual 2: Side-by-side schematic comparing straight knife, round knife, band knife and computer-controlled cutting.
5. Band Knife Cutting Machine
A band knife machine uses a continuous narrow steel blade running in a loop. Unlike a straight knife or round knife, the blade remains fixed in position and the operator moves the fabric section against the blade. This gives the operator better control for accurate shaping.
The band knife is suitable for precision cutting, trimming and re-cutting operations. It is often used when cut edges must be neat and accurate, especially for shaped components. It may be used after rough cutting when final accuracy is required.
The main advantage of the band knife is accuracy. Since the blade is narrow and fixed, it can produce smooth curves and clean edges. However, the machine is not portable, and the fabric pieces have to be brought to the table. The operator must also be skilled because the fabric has to be guided carefully while keeping the shape stable.
6. Computer-Controlled Cutting
Computer-controlled cutting is an advanced system in which the cutting path is controlled by digital marker data. The marker is prepared using a CAD system and the cutting machine follows the programmed pattern outlines automatically.
Modern automated cutting systems may use a reciprocating knife, laser, water jet or other specialised cutting heads depending on the material and end use. In apparel manufacturing, automated knife cutting is commonly used for fabric lays because it gives good accuracy without excessive heat damage.
The main benefit of computer-controlled cutting is repeatability. Once the marker and cutting parameters are correctly set, the same shape can be cut consistently across multiple lays and batches. This reduces dependence on manual cutter skill and improves control over cutting accuracy.
The main limitation is cost. Computerised systems require high investment, trained operators, maintenance support, CAD/CAM integration and sufficient production volume. For small tailoring units, hand shears or simple cutting machines may be more economical. For large factories, automated cutting can improve speed, fabric utilisation and planning efficiency.
7. Comparison of Cutting Systems
Cutting system
Best suited for
Main advantage
Main limitation
Hand shears
Tailoring, samples, alterations and made-to-measure garments
Low cost and high flexibility
Slow and dependent on cutter skill
Straight knife
General bulk garment cutting
Versatile and suitable for many garment parts
Accuracy depends on operator control
Round knife
Straight cuts, broad curves, trimming and section cutting
Fast for simple cutting lines
Not suitable for tight curves and complex shapes
Band knife
Accurate shaping, trimming and re-cutting
Clean and precise cut edges
Fixed machine and skilled handling required
Computer-controlled cutting
Large-scale industrial production
Fast, accurate and repeatable
High investment and technical support required
8. Factors Affecting Selection of Cutting System
The selection of a cutting system depends on the nature of production. A tailor making one garment does not need the same equipment as a factory producing thousands of pieces. The number of garments, lay height, marker complexity and delivery schedule all influence the decision.
Fabric behaviour is also important. Slippery fabrics, stretch fabrics, loosely woven fabrics, checks, stripes, thick fabrics and delicate materials may require different handling methods. A fabric that shifts easily during spreading or cutting may need a lower lay height and more careful control.
The relationship between lay height and accuracy is important. If \( n \) represents the number of plies in a lay, then one cutting action can produce \( n \) identical components, provided the lay remains stable and the blade cuts accurately through all layers. In practice, increasing \( n \) improves productivity but may reduce accuracy if the lay becomes too high, compressed or distorted.
A simple practical relationship can be written as:
This does not mean that lay height should always be increased. Very high lays may cause blade deflection, heat build-up, ply displacement and poor edge accuracy. The best cutting method is therefore the one that balances productivity with acceptable cutting quality.
Visual 3: Decision guide showing how production volume, fabric type, lay height and accuracy requirement influence cutting-system selection.
9. Cutting Quality Requirements
The objective of cutting is not only to separate fabric, but to produce accurate garment components. Good cutting should maintain the shape of the pattern, preserve the grain line and ensure that all plies are cut uniformly.
Important cutting quality requirements include clean edges, correct notches, accurate drill marks, uniform component size, minimum fabric distortion and proper bundling. The cut pieces should be easy to identify and should move to sewing without confusion.
Common cutting defects include frayed edges, uneven edges, scorching, notching errors, blade deflection, ply shifting, wrong grain direction and mismatched components. Many of these problems arise not only from the cutting machine but also from poor spreading, incorrect lay height, blunt blades, unsuitable cutting speed or careless handling.
A good cutting room therefore needs control over both equipment and procedure. The cutting machine, blade condition, marker accuracy, spreading quality, lay stability and operator skill all work together to determine the final result.
Conclusion
Different systems of cutting are used in garment manufacturing depending on fabric type, garment design, production volume, accuracy requirement and investment level. Hand shears are suitable for tailoring and sample work. Straight knives are versatile and widely used in production cutting. Round knives are useful for simple shapes and long cutting lines. Band knives provide higher accuracy for shaped components and trimming. Computer-controlled cutting systems offer speed, consistency and repeatability in large-scale production.
The best cutting system is not always the most advanced or expensive system. It is the system that gives the required balance of accuracy, productivity, fabric utilisation and cost for a particular production situation.
Related Reading on Fabric Spreading, Cutting and Garment Manufacturing
Carr, H., & Latham, B. The Technology of Clothing Manufacture. Blackwell Science.
Cooklin, G. Introduction to Clothing Manufacture. Blackwell Publishing.
Glock, R. E., & Kunz, G. I. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis. Pearson.
Tyler, D. J. Materials Management in Clothing Production. Blackwell Science.
Jacob Solinger. Apparel Manufacturing Handbook: Analysis, Principles and Practice. Van Nostrand Reinhold.
General Disclaimer
This article is intended for educational and general textile-learning purposes. Cutting-room practices may vary depending on fabric type, garment category, factory equipment, safety standards and production systems. Readers should use this explanation as a conceptual guide and consult machine manuals, factory procedures and safety instructions before applying any cutting method in production.
Cutting is one of the most critical operations in garment manufacturing. Once the fabric has been inspected, relaxed where required, spread in layers, and covered with an approved marker, the cutting process converts that fabric lay into garment components. These components may include front panels, back panels, sleeves, collars, cuffs, waistbands, facings, pockets, linings, plackets, yokes and other parts depending on the garment style.
At first glance, cutting may appear to be a simple mechanical operation. In reality, it is a precision process. A small deviation in cutting can affect garment measurements, seam matching, balance, fit, appearance, sewing efficiency and final quality. Fabric that is wrongly cut cannot be restored to its original form. Therefore, the cutting room is not merely a production area; it is one of the most important quality-control points in apparel manufacturing.
Fabric cutting is the process of separating a fabric lay into individual garment components according to the shapes given in the marker. The marker is the cutting plan. It shows the arrangement of pattern pieces on the fabric width in such a way that the required garment parts can be cut with minimum wastage and correct grain direction.
The cutter’s task is to reproduce the marker shapes accurately on the fabric. If the marker shows a sleeve curve, the cut sleeve should maintain that curve. If the marker shows a neckline, collar shape or armhole, the cut part should match the intended pattern. If the pattern requires a particular grain direction, the cut component should respect that direction.
In mathematical terms, fabric utilisation during marker planning is often expressed as:
Although marker efficiency is calculated before cutting, the cutting operation must preserve the marker’s intention. A highly efficient marker loses its value if the cutting is inaccurate, the fabric shifts, or components are mixed after cutting.
Why Cutting is Important
Cutting is important because it gives the first physical shape to the garment. Before cutting, the garment exists only as a design, pattern, marker and fabric lay. After cutting, the garment begins to exist as separate components ready for sewing. Every cut edge becomes a future seam, fold, hem, neckline, armhole or fitting point.
Many garment defects that appear in sewing or finishing actually begin in the cutting room. If the left and right panels are not cut equally, the garment may look unbalanced. If the collar parts are not cut accurately, the collar may not sit properly. If the sleeve curve is distorted, sleeve attachment becomes difficult. If checks, stripes or directional prints are not controlled, the garment may look defective even when the sewing is technically correct.
Good cutting supports the entire production flow. It helps sewing operators work faster, reduces rework, improves size consistency, controls fabric wastage and improves the final appearance of the garment.
Main Objectives of Cutting
The main objective of cutting is to produce garment components that are accurate replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker. These components should be correct in shape, size, grain direction, ply-to-ply consistency and edge quality.
The cutting process should achieve the following objectives:
Objective
Meaning in the Cutting Room
Effect on Garment Quality
Accuracy of shape
Cut parts should follow the pattern outline without distortion.
Improves fit, balance and sewing alignment.
Accuracy of size
Cut components should correspond to the correct size and measurement.
Reduces size variation and alteration.
Clean cut edges
Edges should be free from excessive fraying, tearing or yarn pulling.
Improves seam appearance and handling during sewing.
Unscorched edges
Edges should not be fused, hardened or burnt due to blade heat.
Prevents sewing difficulty, discomfort and quality defects.
Ply-to-ply consistency
Top, middle and bottom plies should remain similar in shape.
Ensures uniformity in bulk production.
Correct identification
Cut parts should be bundled, numbered and labelled properly.
Prevents mixing of sizes, shades and garment parts.
Requirements of Good Cutting
1. Precision of Cut
Precision means that the cut line should follow the marker line as closely as possible. The cutter must avoid overcutting, undercutting and deviation from the pattern outline. Precision is especially important in curved areas such as necklines, armholes, collars, sleeve caps and shaped panels.
Inaccurate cutting may not always be visible immediately. It often becomes visible during sewing, when two parts that should match do not align properly. For example, if the sleeve cap is slightly distorted, the operator may have difficulty setting the sleeve smoothly into the armhole. If the front and back panels differ in length, the side seam may become uneven.
2. Clean Edges
The raw edges of cut fabric should be clean and stable. They should not show excessive fraying, serration, pulling, tearing or yarn displacement. Clean edges are easier to sew and help maintain seam quality.
Frayed or damaged edges may result from a blunt blade, unsuitable cutting speed, loose fabric construction, excessive lay height or poor fabric support. Delicate fabrics, loosely woven fabrics, lightweight synthetics, chiffons, georgettes and slippery satins require greater care because they can shift or fray easily during cutting.
3. Unscorched and Unfused Edges
During cutting, friction between the blade and fabric can generate heat. This is particularly important when cutting synthetic or thermoplastic fabrics such as polyester and nylon. If the blade becomes too hot, the edges may fuse, harden or appear scorched.
Fused edges create difficulty during sewing and may also affect garment comfort. They can cause needle damage, skipped stitches, rough seam appearance or hard edges in the finished garment. To control this problem, the cutting room may reduce lay height, maintain blade sharpness, use lubricated or anti-fusion paper, control cutting speed and select the correct cutting method for the fabric.
4. Proper Support of the Lay
The fabric lay must be properly supported during cutting. The table surface, clamps, pins, weights or vacuum system should hold the lay firmly without distorting it. If the lay moves during cutting, the top ply and bottom ply may not remain identical.
Support is especially important in high lays, slippery fabrics, knitted fabrics and fabrics with surface texture. The cutter should also ensure that the blade reaches the lowest ply properly. If the lowest ply is not fully cut, operators may pull the fabric apart manually, causing distortion and edge damage.
5. Consistency Across All Plies
In bulk production, fabric is often cut in multiple layers. The challenge is to ensure that the top, middle and bottom plies are cut consistently. Blade deflection, compression of the lay, fabric movement and excessive lay height can create variation between plies.
A higher lay height may improve productivity because more pieces are cut at once, but it may reduce accuracy. A lower lay height may improve cutting control but increase cutting time. The correct lay height should therefore be decided according to fabric type, garment style, quality requirement and cutting equipment.
Factors Affecting Cutting Quality
Fabric Type
Different fabrics behave differently during cutting. A firm cotton fabric may remain stable, while a slippery satin may shift. A knitted fabric may stretch, while a loosely woven fabric may fray. A synthetic fabric may fuse if heat is generated. Therefore, cutting parameters must be adjusted according to the fabric.
Fabric Relaxation
Some fabrics, especially knitted fabrics and fabrics with stretch, may need relaxation before spreading and cutting. If fabric is cut before it has relaxed, the garment panels may shrink back after cutting, creating measurement problems.
Spreading Quality
Cutting accuracy depends heavily on spreading quality. If the fabric is spread with wrinkles, tension, bowing, skewing, uneven edges or poor ply alignment, cutting cannot fully correct the problem. Good cutting begins with good spreading.
Marker Accuracy
The marker must be approved, correctly aligned and suitable for the fabric. Pattern pieces should respect grain line, nap direction, print direction, checks, stripes, borders and size requirements. Cutting can only reproduce what the marker provides.
Blade Sharpness
A blunt blade is one of the most common causes of poor cutting. It can create frayed edges, uneven lines, fabric dragging and heat build-up. Regular sharpening and correct blade maintenance are essential cutting-room practices.
Operator Skill
The cutter must understand machine handling, blade control, fabric behaviour, notching, drilling, safety and bundle discipline. Skilled cutting is not only about speed. It is about controlled movement, correct judgment and respect for the fabric.
Common Cutting Defects
Cutting defects may affect garment measurements, appearance, sewing efficiency and final quality. Some defects are visible immediately, while others become visible only during sewing or after finishing.
Cutting Defect
Likely Cause
Possible Effect
Prevention
Frayed edge
Blunt blade, loose fabric structure, poor support
Poor seam appearance and handling difficulty
Use sharp blade and suitable lay height
Fused or scorched edge
Heat build-up during cutting
Hard edge, needle damage, sewing difficulty
Reduce lay height, use lubricant or anti-fusion paper
Use bundle tickets, ply numbering and shade control
Notches, Drill Marks and Bundle Control
Cutting is not complete when the outline of the garment parts has been cut. The cutting room must also provide proper notches, drill marks and bundle identification. These small details guide sewing operators during assembly.
Notches help match seams, pleats, darts, sleeve caps, collars and other construction points. Drill marks may indicate pocket placement, dart points, embroidery location, button positions or logo placement. Both must be accurate. A missing notch can slow production; a wrong notch can create a sewing defect; a deep notch can weaken the seam area.
After cutting, the garment parts should be bundled carefully. Bundle tickets should identify style, size, colour, quantity, lay number, shade group and other required production details. Shade control is particularly important when different fabric rolls are used in the same order.
Cutting Room Checklist
A simple checklist can prevent many cutting-room errors. The following checklist may be used before, during and after cutting.
Stage
Checks to be Made
Before cutting
Fabric relaxation, fabric defects, shade grouping, marker approval, grain line, lay height, ply count and fabric direction should be checked.
During cutting
Blade sharpness, cutting accuracy, lay stability, heat build-up, notch position, drill marks and operator safety should be controlled.
After cutting
Parts should be counted, inspected, numbered, bundled, labelled and protected from shade or size mixing.
Cutting Room Safety
Cutting machines contain sharp and fast-moving blades. Safety should therefore be part of the cutting process, not an afterthought. The cutting area should be clearly marked, access should be controlled, machine guards should be properly adjusted, warning signals should be used where required, and only trained operators should handle cutting machines.
Good lighting, clean floors, proper disposal of off-cuts, regular inspection of guards and electrical fittings, and suitable personal protective equipment help reduce cutting-room hazards. Safety is also connected with quality. A clean, well-managed cutting area allows the operator to cut with better control and fewer distractions.
Cutting in Simple Words
Cutting is the stage where fabric becomes garment parts. The pattern maker gives the shape, the marker gives the arrangement, the spreading operator prepares the lay, and the cutter converts the plan into physical components. If this conversion is accurate, the sewing room receives parts that can be assembled smoothly. If it is inaccurate, sewing becomes a struggle.
A good cutting room respects three things: the pattern, the fabric and the production system. It does not cut blindly. It checks the fabric, follows the marker, controls the lay, protects the edge, marks the sewing points and sends correctly bundled parts to the next department.
Conclusion
The objective of cutting is to produce garment components that are accurate, clean, stable, properly identified and ready for sewing. Good cutting requires precision, clean edges, unscorched edges, proper support of the lay and consistency across all plies.
In garment manufacturing, cutting has a direct influence on quality, cost and productivity. A well-cut garment starts its quality journey before it reaches the sewing machine. A careless cut, however, may create defects that no amount of sewing skill can fully correct. Therefore, cutting should be treated as a technical and quality-sensitive operation, not merely as the act of separating fabric into pieces.
Related Reading on Fabric Spreading, Cutting and Garment Manufacturing
Health and Safety Executive. “Fabric-cutting machinery.” HSE, United Kingdom.
International Labour Organization. Safety and Health in Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Footwear. ILO, 2022.
Shang, X., Shen, D., Wang, F.-Y., and Nyberg, T. R. “A Heuristic Algorithm for the Fabric Spreading and Cutting Problem in Apparel Factories.” 2019.
Pietroni, N., Guenot-Falque, R., Liu, M., Vidal-Calleja, T., and Sorkine-Hornung, O. “Computational Pattern Making from 3D Garment Models.” 2022.
Babu, V. R. Industrial Engineering in Apparel Production. Woodhead Publishing India.
General Disclaimer
This article is intended for educational and informational purposes. Cutting-room practices may vary depending on fabric type, garment category, equipment, factory layout, buyer requirements and safety regulations. Readers should follow their organisation’s approved operating procedures, machine manuals and applicable safety standards before applying any cutting-room method in production.
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