Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Tuesday 29 September 2009
Major Warping Defects- On Sectional warping
Snarlings and Overlappings
These are caused by irregular yarn tension. The broken end is not tied-up by the operative with the yarn end on the drum.
Different lenghts of sections, High Wastage Rate
This is caused by over-or-under warping of sections, untimely laying of lease cords due to faulty operation of the counter and the carelessness of operative.
Overlapping/Excessive Distance
The sections overlap each other or there is an excessive distance between them. This is caused by support improperly set and the careless of warper operative.
Stripiness in the Warp
This is caused by improper mixing of raw material
Irregular Winding
Irregular winding on the warper's beam which is displaced towards one end. This is due to improper position of the weaver's beam in warp beaming.
Different lenghts of Ends
It also includes irregular distribution of the section in the weaver's beam width. This is caused by improper fixing of section ends to the weaver's beam.
Excessive or insufficient number of yarn ends in the warp
This is caused by improper calculation at gaiting.
Warp Beaming on a defective weaver's beam
This is caused by carelessness of the assistant foreman and the warper operative.
Incorrect Laying of lease cords, or their absence in some sections
Again this is caused by carelessness of the warper operative.
Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going do? You should go join the Forum.
Monday 28 September 2009
Suitability of a fiber for a blend
Fibers in a blend are chosen keeping in mind various properties of the constituent fibers. Thus a blend is chosen which gives the best of properties of the different constituents of the blend. The properties that are considered can be strength, absorbency,crease resistance, resistance to abrasion, resistance to heat, bulkiness,resistance to pilling and Dimensional stability.All the fibers do not have all the properties that are desired. This is the very reason why blend is chosen.
Cotton has moderate strength and dimensional stability. However, it is excellent in absorbency, resistance to heat and pilling. It has an average resistance to abrasion and poor bulkiness properties and crease retention.Thus it is added in the blend to have excellent absorbency properties.
Viscose Rayon has excellent absorbency, resistance to heat and pilling. Thus it is similar to cotton in these properties.It has however, poor resistance to abrasion, bulkiness, crease retention and stability. It has an average strength. It has absorbency properties similar to cotton. It is also cheaper than cotton.
Acetate Rayon has excellent resistance to pilling and stability. It has moderate resistance to heat and average absorbency, crease retention and stability. However its resistance to abrasion is very poor.
Wool has excellent absorbency, bulk and wrinkle resistance. However, it has poor stability. It has moderate abrasion and heat resistance. Its crease retention, resistance to pilling and strength can only be considered as average.
Nylon has excellent strength, stability and abrasion resistance. However, It has poor absorbency and bulk. It has moderate crease retention and average resistance to heat and pilling.
Polyester has excellent strength, stability, crease retention and abrasion resistance. However it has poor absorbency, bulkiness properties and resistance to pilling. Its resistance to heat is average.
Acrylic has excellent bulk and stability. It has moderate resistance to heat and average crease retention and strength. Its resistance to abrasion and pilling and absorbency are very poor.It is similar to wool in most of the properties. It is also cheaper than wool.
Modacrylic has excellent stability and bulk properties. However its absorbency, resistance to heat and pilling is very poor. It has average strength, resistance to abrasion and crease retention.
Polypropylene and Polyethylene have excellent stability and strength. They have poor absorbency, bulk and heat resistance. The have average crease resistance and resistance to pilling.
Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going do? You should go join the Forum.
Tuesday 1 September 2009
Seam Strength Vs. Seam Slippage
Difference Between Seam Strength and Seam Slippage
Both the parameters measure the performance of seam. Seam strength referes to the strength when seam finally ruptures or when the fabric breaks.
However before rupturing there is an unacceptable opening in the seam which makes the seam 'failed' commercially even when there is no visible rupture. Seam slippage measures that.
Seam strength depends upon stitch type, thread strength, stitches per inch, thread tension, seam type and seam efficiency of the material.
Seam slippage depends upon the stitch rate, the weave structure of the fabric and the width of the seam allowance.
There is another term called 'yarn slippage' which measures the shifting of warp yarn over weft yarn to render the garment unusuable.
Yarn slippage depends upon a low number of warp or filling yarn, two shallow seam allowance, too tight a fit and improper seam construction.
Find Pictures of Seam Quality Defects here.