Monday 27 February 2012

After thoughts on the recent Bhagalpur Trip

It was heartening to find the fact from the people there that Bihar is in fact progressing in the regime of Nitish Kumar. According to them, previously it was difficult to be on the roads after 8 pm, now you can easily roam about till 10. 

Bhagalpuri Ghicha
Bhagalpur Ghicha Made of Eri 
The two most glaring problems with Bhagalpur are lack of proper roads and electricity. The fact that it took us more than two and a half hours to reach Bhagiya, only 70 km from Bhagalpur tells about the pathetic conditions of road. Electricity problem is so acute that the entire powerloom industry is run on Diesel Generators with the result that there is too much pollution in the city. 

The roads are too narrow to accommodate so much population. Special efforts need to be done to plan it properly. 

The hotel Sriyash Regency was a good place with quite good facilities as compared to the city.

A room in Hotel Sriyash
One interesting aspects of this city is the emphasis on education. You can find huge showroom showcasing books and competition material. The whole city is filled with posters of Coaching for Bank P.O. and other exams.  

The most beautiful aspects of this trip was the landscape outside Bhagalpur littered with Tar trees. Going by the Ganges at your side was the most refreshing of all.  

They are still using direct dyes for dyeing Tus/Staple fabrics. It was interesting to see the use of synthetic resin ( Jeevan Jod) to be used with Arrowroot starching on the fabric. The people who work on cotton also work on Linen on powerlooms. It was enlightening to see  the weaving of Tussar Ghicha fabric at Bhagiya. The creative use of different Gotis ( Cocoons) to get different colors and textures is amazing. Most of the Silk Gaddis are owned by Vaish and Marwari community. 

Bhagalpuri Sari
There is still a lot to be done. People there just do not care for reservation and encroach freely in the compartments. A lot of chain pulling happens between Patna and Bhagalpur. 

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Tuesday 21 February 2012

Textile Softners

Softness of fabric depends upon several factors, these are:
1.       Composition of the Fiber: The more crystalline region a fiber has, the less soft will be the fabric. Thus viscose is more soft than cotton as it has less crystalline region than cotton.
2.       Softness of Yarn: It depends upon the twist. The higher the twist, the less soft will be the yarn and hence less soft will be the fabric.
3.       Weave: Loose weave give more softness to the fabric than closer weave. Thus a fabric made with satin or twill weave will be more softer than that made with plain weave. 
Chemical softening is done by using chemicals which act as a lubricating agent and permits sliding of the fibers in the fabric. However, washing can eliminate these chemicals. Therefore they are applied during the final stage of the treatment.
The most common type of Chemical Softeners are:

1.       Non Ionic softeners: These are less efficient than anionic or cationic softeners, but they can withstand the effects of hard water. They can also sustain themselves in acid and basic environments and thus are most suitable for normal washing.

2.       Anionic Softeners: These are very good and give the fabric a full hand. However they cannot sustain hard water and acid environment. They can also cause yellowing at certain  temperatures.

3.       Cationic Softeners: They are amongst the best of the softeners. However they can cause dye toning. Also they can affect the color fastness to light.

4.       Silicone Based Softeners: These are insoluble in water and therefore must be applied on the fabric after dissolution in organic solvents. They have good fastness to washing. They create a lubricating film on the surface and give fabric a velvety silky hand.

5.        Reactive Softeners: These products have to be cross linked and provide permanent softness and water repellency.               

Sunday 12 February 2012

Hindi Proverbs related to Textiles-1

Here is a list of proverbs in Hindi which are related to Cloths and Stitching. Textiles being one of the basic necessities of life, the wisdom related to it find its role prominently in the proverbs and idioms in Hindi.

१. आँचल पसारना - भिक्षा माँगना

२. अपनी पगड़ी अपने हाथ - अपनी प्रतिष्टा अपने ही हाथ होती है.

आँख न दीदा काढ कसीदा - किसी कार्य को करने में समर्थ न हो कर उस कार्य को करने की चेष्टा करना.

४. आँखें बिछाना - प्रेम सहित आदर करना

५. आँखों पर पर्दा पड़ना - असावधान हो जाना

६ . आँखों की पट्टी खुलना- सचेत हो जाना

७. आकाश में थेगली लगाना - बड़ी चतुराई करना

८. आकाश फट पड़ना - अति वृष्टि होना

१०. आपस में गिरह पड़ना- मन मुटाव होना.

११. आये थे हरी भजन को औटन लगे कपास - किसी बड़े काम करने के लिए आये थे परन्तु तुच्छ कार्य करने लगे.

१२. आस्तीन चढ़ाना - लड़ने के लिए तैयार रहना

१३. आस्तीन में सांप पालना - छिपे दुश्मन को सहारा देना

१४. आस्तीन का सांप - कपटी मित्र

१५. उधेड़ बुन में लगना- चिंता फ़िक्र करना

१६. क़तर ब्योंत करना - कांट छांट करना

१७. कपडे उतारना - ठगना , लूटना

१८. कपास तौलना- मूर्ख होना

१९. करघा छोड़ जुलाहा जाये नाहक चोट बेचारा खाए - जो मनुष्य अपना काम छोड़ कर दूसरे प्रपंच में पड़ता है वह हानि उठाता है.

२०. कांख में कतरनी रखना - कपट रूप में हानि पहुँचाना

२१. ओढ़नी की बतास लगाना- स्त्री प्रेम में पड़ना

२२. कुन्दी करना - बहुत मारना पीटना

२३. खाइए मन भाता पहरिये जग भाता- अपनी रूचि के अनुसार भोजन और दूसरे की रूचि के अनुसार वस्त्र पहनने चाहिए

२४. गगनभेदी पताका फहराना - प्रभाव सहित शासन करना.

२५. गठरी मारना- माल चुरा लेना

२६. गधा खेत खाए जुलाहा मारा जाये - अपराध कोई करे और दंड किसी दूसरे को दिया जाये

२७. गाँठ में जमा तो खातिर जमा - पास में धन होने से किसी बात की फ़िक्र नहीं रहती.

२८. गाँठ काटना- बहुत महंगा बेचना

२९. गाँठ खुलना- झंझट दूर होना

३०. गाँठ में बांधना - अच्छी तरह से याद रखना

३१. गाँठ लेना - अपने पक्ष में कर लेना

३२. गाँठ पर गाँठ पड़ना - झंझटें बढ़ जाना

३३. गाँठ का पूरा - बड़ा अमीर.

३४. गिरह टटोलना - कुछ लेने की इच्छा करना

३५. गुदरी का लाल - किसी के  रंग रूप से उसके गुणों का पता नहीं चलता

३५. घी भी खाओ और पगड़ी भी रखो - मनुष्य को इतना धन खर्च करना चाहिए कि बाहर मान मर्यादा बनी रहे.

३६. चादर उतार डालना - बेशर्म होना

३७. चादर तानकर सोना - निश्चिन्त हो जाना

३८. चादर के बाहर पैर फैलाना - आय से अधिक खर्च करना

३९. चादर देखकर पाँव फैलाना- शक्ति के अनुसार काम करना

४०. जब तक जीना तब तक सीना - ज़िन्दगी भर संसारी झंझटें लगी ही रहतीं हैं

४१. जूँ के डर से गुदड़ी नहीं जाती - थोड़े से कष्ट के लिए काम नहीं छोड़ा जाता

४२. जेब से जाना - खर्च होना

४३ जैसा देश वैसा वेश बनाना - स्थिति के अनुसार काम करना

४४. ज्यों ज्यों भीजे कामरी, त्यों त्यों भारी होए - कर्ज अदा न करने पर वह बढ़ता ही जाता है.
४५. झंडा गाड़ना - अधिकार स्थापित करना

४६. टांके खोलना - गुप्त बातों को प्रकट करना

४७ टेढ़ी टोपी लगाना - शान दिखलाना

४८. टोपी उछालना - आनंद का प्रदर्शन करना

४९. टोपी बदलना- किसी मनुष्य को अपना मित्र बना लेना.

५०. दरजी की सूई कभी ताश में कभी टाट में - कामकाजी मनुष्य कभी बेकाम नहीं रहता

Updated on 15th Feb, 2012

Contributed by Anonymous

५०    इज्ज़त तार तार होना 
५२   द्रोपदी की साड़ी होना 
५३   धोती का रुमाल होना 
५४   बाँहे चढ़ाना 


५५   सूत न कपास लट्ठम-लट्ठा 
५६   कसीदे काढना 

Contributed by Mr. Arun Aggarwal- Bhagalpur

५७ गज फाड़कर गिरह बचाना - छोटे फायदे के लिए बड़ा नुक्सान करना

Others- 26th February,2012

५८ सूरदास की काली कमरी चढ़े न दूजो रंग- Black will take no other Hue
५९ तेते पाँव पसारिये जेती लम्बी सौर - Cut your coat according to your cloth.
६० नाचने उठे तो घूंघट कैसा - He who would catch fish must not mind getting wet.

27th February 2012

६१. कोल्हू काट कर मोगरी बनाना - कपडे पीटने वाले डंडे को मोगरी कहते हैं. : छोटे फाएदे के लिए बड़ा नुकसान करना .

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Laboratory Practicals in Dyeing

Following are the documents depicting the laboratory practicals for dyeing. These are extremely useful for students of Textile Chemistry and textile enthusiast.

1. Dyeing with Vat Dyes

2. Simple Color Matching 

3. Dyeing with Direct Dyes

4. Dyeing of Acrylic

5. Dyeing of Polyester

6. Dyeing of Wool with Milling Acid Dyes

7. Dyeing of Wool with Premetallised Dyes

8. Dyeing of Wool with Lavelling Acid Dyes

9.Creation of a successful match prediction database

10. Mercerising Cotton

11. Determination of Milling Shrinkage in Wool

12. Dyeing of P/C blend

13. Dyeing of Polyester with Disperse Dyes

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Sunday 5 February 2012

how to check a garment for fitting


• Lengthwise grainlines, side seams, center front and center back seams hang straight or at right angles to the floor.

• Crosswise grainlines are parallel to floor.

• Adequate wearing ease is available for sitting, moving and bending.

• Armhole seams curve smoothly over the end of shoulder.

• Darts point to the fullest part of the curve.

• Shoulder seam length comes to end of shoulders.

• Sleeves are comfortable with no wrinkles.

• Hipline fits smoothly.

• Hemline is even.

• Pant legs hang smoothly and do not restrict any part of the legs.

• Crotch depth is right, neither too low and baggy nor too tight and binding.

• Pants hang smoothly from the waist. The waistband fits the body comfortably and stays in place when bending and sitting.

• Pants have no pulls or excess fabric across the front or back crotch level.

• The length of the garment is becoming.



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