Chikankari Stitches- Murri, Ghas Patti, Pechni

Notes on Chikankari

There is an amazing report on the process of Chikankari done by Ms. Neha Sharma of NIFT Mumbai. I am reproducing the various stitches representing Chikankari. The source is given below.

1. In Chikankari untwisted thread of cotton or tussar is used

2. The process of  Embroidery is as follows

a. Cutting
b. Stitching
c. Stitching
d. Printing
e. Embroidering
f. washing




Printing is done with Synthetic Indigo and emulsion of synthetic gum.

There are three types of embroideries

1. Flat Stitches

a. Tepchi

This is a running Stitch



b. Janjira

Chain stitch is used as the outline



c. Khatao

White on White Applique work, gives different opacity



d. Rahet

It is a stem stitch worked with six threads on wrong side of the fabric. Forms a solid line of back stitch on the right side of fabric.



e. Gitti

Mainly blanket stitch with buttonhole stitch is done to create circular pattern in the form of wheel like motif.



f. Turpai and Darzdari





2. Embossed Effect

g. Murri

Oval Shaped French knot



h. Phanda



i. Ghas Patti



3. JAALI

j. Jaali



k. Hool

Fine detached eyelet stitch.



Source: Please click here or get it from here. 

Chikankari Stitches- Keel and Ulta Bakhia

Gaanth and Jaali Work

What is Tapestry Weave

Tapestry is the name given to a weave in which two basic principles are found at play:

1. The hiding of the warp with a closely packed weft to secure solid planes of color.
2. Weaving of independent weft each confined to its own area within any given pick.

The places where the two colors junction intermingle, any one of the following methods may be employed:

If the two weft picks interlock each other, it is called interlock.

If the interlocking is on alternate rows it is called single interlock.

If it is practiced on each row it is called double interlock.

If the two weft picks interlock around a common warp without simultaneously interlocking with each other, it falls within the category of dovetail tapestry.

If there is no interlocking at color junction this is called slit tapestry or Kilim.

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