Tuesday 9 April 2024

Can Silk be Machine Washed



At least a study suggests so. 

A paper titled "Study of property and structural variants of mulberry and Tussar silk filaments" by professor Mohan Gulrajani has suggested this idea. 

Earlier research suggested that the wet strength of silk specially Mulberry reduces considerably when subjected to water during laundering. This happens because in an aqueous environment, the hydrogen bonds between the molecules break. These bonds are crucial for maintaining the structure and strength of the fibers.

However the paper suggests that " silks can be machine washed at 40-60ÂșC provided one uses appropriate washing procedures, such as the use of neutral detergents".

The results for both Tussar and Mulberry found that " the tenacity and elongation at break are not
significantly different in dry or wet state ". However there is slight decrease in modulus. The figure given below talks about the result. 






A reduction in modulus would make the fiber less stiff.

Modulus, specifically in the context of materials science, refers to the measure of a material's stiffness or rigidity. It indicates the ability of a material to resist deformation under an applied force. Modulus is typically expressed in terms of stress divided by strain, where stress is the force applied per unit area, and strain is the resulting deformation.

When the modulus of a material decreases, it means that the material becomes less resistant to deformation for a given stress. In other words, it becomes more flexible or less stiff. Conversely, an increase in modulus would indicate that the material becomes stiffer or more resistant to deformation.

Then why it is not advised not to launder Pure silk sarees ?

The answer lies in the properties of commercially available silk fabrics or sarees. The above study was done after fully degumming the yarn. However, in commercially available silk fabric, the yarn is not fully degummed, there is always a residual gum or sericin. In the study about 20% sericin was found in mulberry and 5% in tussar.  On wetting, the sericin weakens, and allows inter filament slippage, which in turn leads to a drastic reduction in mechanical properties. Hence the strength of the wet silk gets reduced. 

What is sericin, what is silk fiber composed of ?

Silk fiber is primarily composed of two main proteins: fibroin and sericin. These proteins are produced by specialized glands in the silk-producing organisms, such as silkworms (Bombyx mori). The composition of silk fiber can vary depending on factors such as the species of the silk-producing organism and the conditions under which the silk is produced.

Fibroin: Fibroin is the structural protein that forms the core of silk fibers. It constitutes the majority of the silk fiber's mass and is responsible for its strength and resilience. Fibroin is a fibrous protein composed mainly of amino acids such as glycine, alanine, and serine. The exact composition and arrangement of amino acids within fibroin contribute to its unique mechanical properties, including its tensile strength and elasticity.

Sericin: Sericin is a glue-like protein that surrounds and binds the fibroin filaments together within the silk cocoon. It serves to protect the fibroin and provide cohesion to the silk fiber structure. Sericin is composed of various proteins and amino acids, with its composition varying depending on factors such as the silk-producing species. Sericin is typically removed from silk fibers during processing to improve their texture and appearance, leaving behind only the fibroin core.

In addition to proteins, silk fiber may also contain small amounts of other substances such as lipids, sugars, and minerals. These minor components can influence the properties of silk fibers but are present in much smaller quantities compared to fibroin and sericin.
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