The Indian saree is a timeless and iconic garment that has been a part of Indian culture for centuries. With its elegant drape and intricate designs, it represents the diverse traditions and craftsmanship of the country. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore. Each state in India has its unique style of saree, with distinct patterns, borders, and fabrics. In this article, we delve into the rich tapestry of Indian sarees, exploring the variations across different states.
Kerala:
In Kerala, the saree is known as "Pudva." It typically features a simple yet elegant design with a border called "Kara." The body or ground of the saree is referred to as "Udal." The outer end-piece is called "Mundani" or "Anchalam," while the inner end-piece is known as "Ullattam." The saree is often adorned with a selvedge called "Vakka" and an end fringe called "Allukk." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is left plain, and the saree is folded in a style known as "Madak."
Karnataka:
Karnataka embraces the saree in various forms, including "Seere" and "Bond." The border, known as "Kinar," "Anchu," or "Patta," adds a touch of elegance to the saree. The body or ground is called "Nadamu" or "Maidan." The outer end-piece, referred to as "Seregu" or "Pallav," is intricately designed. The inner end-piece, called "Lopala Kongu," complements the overall look. The saree is finished with a selvedge called "Ginta Javana," "Jamada," or "Jawla." The end fringe is known as "Baddi," "Badi Athari," "Badhaggi," or "Kante Thojhalar." The saree fold style in Karnataka is called "Chotto Attri," "Potta Athari," "Badige," or "Galinge."
Goa:
Goa celebrates its saree heritage with names like "Lugda," "Kapad," and "Sado." The border, known as "Kath," adds a distinctive touch. The body or ground of the saree is called "Aang." The outer and inner end-pieces are referred to as "Bhailo," "Pallov," "Podar," and "Bheetolo Pallov," respectively. The saree is adorned with a selvedge called "Kath," and the end fringe is known as "Gone." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is called "Dassi," and the saree is folded in the "Ghadi" style.
Maharashtra:
Maharashtra boasts a range of sarees, including "Baan" and "Lugda." The border, known as "Ghadi," "Mad," "Kinar," or "Garbh," is intricately designed. The body or ground of the saree is called "Dal" or "Garbh." The saree features a distinct end-piece called "Padar" or "Patti." The inner end-piece is referred to as "Dhungan Patti." The saree is adorned with a selvedge called "Jeeb" or "Nakhi." The end fringe is known as "Punchra." The finishing touch is given with a decorative element called "Dassi" or "Dasta." The Maharashtra style of folding the saree is known as "Ghadi."
Gujarat:
Gujarat is renowned for its vibrant sarees like "Lugda" and "Sadlo." The border, known as "Kor," "Phumro," or "Dhaburao," features intricate patterns and designs. The body or ground of the saree is called "Pate," "Libhai," or "Bhoomi." The saree often showcases a beautiful pallav or outer end-piece called "Saur," "Chheda," or "Pallav." The selvedge is referred to as "Chilla," while the end fringe is called "Kantho," "Kanar," "Baid," or "Dhari." The saree is folded with finesse in a style known as "Fumka." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is called "Chiran."
Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh:
Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh offer a variety of sarees, including "Jote," "Lugda," and "Pata." The border, known as "Kinar" or "Dhadi," is often intricately woven. The body or ground is called "Peta," "Deh," "Zamin," "Dharti," or "Howda." The saree features a unique end-piece called "Pallavan," "Patta," "Munh," "Anchi," or "Jhela." A decorative element called "Kanihai Patti" adds charm to the saree. The selvedge is referred to as "Dun" or "Dohra Patti." The end fringe is known as "Phunchra," and the saree fold is called "Chir" or "Dhadi."
Uttar Pradesh:
Uttar Pradesh embraces the saree in various styles like "Dhoti," "Lugdi," "Lugga," and "Sari." The border, known as "Kinar" or "Bel," is intricately woven. The body or ground is called "Pote" or "Zameen." The saree showcases a beautiful pallu or outer end-piece called "Palloo," "Palla," or "Anchal." The selvedge is referred to as "Tala" or "Deodhi Ke Baad." The finishing touch is given with a decorative element called "Koria" or "Berai." The saree features a delicate end fringe known as "Jhalar." The saree fold styles in Uttar Pradesh include "Cheer" and "Ghadi" or "Tehi."
Bihar and Jharkhand:
Bihar and Jharkhand have their own distinct styles of sarees that showcase the cultural richness of the region. The sarees in these states are known by names like "Dhoti," "Luga," and "Langa." The border, called "Paar" or "Kinar," adds a touch of elegance to the saree. The body or ground is referred to as "Zameen," "Lapate," or "Hauz." The saree features a beautiful end-piece known as the "Aanchal" or "Mukpat." A unique decorative element called "Gajnautha" is often incorporated into the design. The selvedge is known as "Kor," and the end fringe is called "Dassi" or "Fudna." The saree is folded in a style known as "Cheela," while the parting-stripe of warp without weft is referred to as "Dhadi."
West Bengal:
West Bengal, known for its rich artistic heritage, offers a diverse range of sarees that capture the essence of the region. The saree in West Bengal is often referred to as "Bhaaj." The border, called "Paar" or "Payrey," showcases intricate patterns and designs. The body or ground of the saree is referred to as "Jameen," "Gaa," "Khol," or "Pota." The outer end-piece, known as "Uni Aanchol" or "Aanchala," adds a touch of grace. The inner end-piece is referred to as "Thol Aanchal," "Kolod," or "Kol." The saree is often embellished with decorative elements like "Aal," "Aanthi," "Mulkandi," or "Aangot." The saree features a distinctive end fringe called "Chhela" or "Dosi." In West Bengal, the saree is often folded in the traditional style of "Bhaaj" or "Guti Bhaaj."
The diverse range of Indian sarees reflects the rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship of each state. From the simple elegance of Kerala's "Pudva" to the vibrant patterns of Gujarat's "Lugda," each saree tells a unique story. Exploring the different styles, borders, body/ground, end-pieces, selvedges, and folds of sarees across India offers a fascinating glimpse into the country's rich textile traditions. Whether it's the traditional weaves of Maharashtra or the intricate designs of Karnataka, Indian sarees continue to captivate with their timeless beauty and cultural significance.
