Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Sunday, 14 October 2007
Cutting
Objective of the cutting room
1. To cut the garment parts accurately and economically
2. To cut the garments in sufficient volume to keep the sewing room supplied with work
Necessity of Cutting
1. A garment is made of several pattern shapes, whereas the cloth supplied is of single width and length. Cutting is necessary to introduce shape in the garment.
2. A fabric has only one width. The width may be small or large. Thus cutting is necessary to overcome the limitations of fabric width
3. A piece of fabric wrapped around the body must be joined somewhere. Therefore, cutting is necessary to locate appropriately the position of the joint.
Steps in Cutting
1. To cut a single garment, the garment pattern is attached to one or two piles of the fabric
2. Care is taken to match the design on the fabric
3. The garment parts are then cut with hand shears, electric cutters or die
To cut large quantities of garments
1. To cut large quantities of garments, a lay is created. A lay consists of many piles of fabrics spread one over the another.
2. On top of this lay, a marker is placed. A marker consists of a length of paper. All the pattern pieces for all the sizes of the garment are drawn on it.
3. Care is taken to interlock closely all the pattern pieces. This will ensure minimum fabric usage.
4. The piles of the fabric in the lay are of the same length as the marker.
The number of piles in the fabric in the lay depends upon:
1. Requirement of the order for the garment. If the order is bigger, no of piles are more.
2. Availability of the material
3. Constraints of physical equipment: Capacity of the cutting scissors.