Tuesday, 29 December 2015

What is Pita or Pitta Work



Pitta work is an ancient work of embroidery in which first the filling is done with the help of metal wires and then it it beaten so that the texture becomes uniform.

Watch this video to understand Pitta work.



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Saturday, 31 October 2015

What is TR Fabric



What is TR Fabric? Meaning, Composition, Properties and Uses

TR fabric is one of the most common suiting fabrics used in the Indian textile and apparel market. In most commercial usage, TR refers to a polyester-rayon or polyester-viscose blended fabric, commonly used for trousers, suits, uniforms, safari suits and formalwear.

The term TR is often expanded as Terry Rayon or Terylene Rayon in trade language. It is not always used as a strict scientific fibre name, but as a practical market term for a fabric that combines the durability of polyester with the softness and drape of rayon or viscose.

1. Meaning of TR Fabric

TR fabric is generally understood as a blended suiting fabric made from polyester and rayon or viscose. In older and trade-oriented terminology, the polyester component may be referred to as Terylene, while the rayon component may be referred to as rayon or viscose rayon.

This is why TR is often explained as Terylene Rayon or Terry Rayon. In the fabric market, the same or similar fabrics may also be called poly-viscose, PV suiting, polyester-viscose suiting, TR suiting or Terry Rayon suiting.




Visual 1: TR fabric as a blend of polyester strength and viscose comfort.

It is important to understand that TR is mainly a commercial fabric term. A fabric should not be judged only by the name TR; its actual quality depends on the blend ratio, yarn count, fabric construction, GSM, finishing, dyeing, shrinkage control and garment requirement.

2. Typical Composition of TR Fabric

The exact composition of TR fabric can vary from one mill to another. Many TR suitings are sold in polyester-viscose blend ratios such as 65:35, 70:30, 80:20 or 85:15, depending on the intended price point and performance requirement.

A higher polyester percentage usually improves strength, crease recovery, dimensional stability and durability. A higher viscose percentage usually improves softness, absorbency, drape and wearing comfort.

Common Blend Ratio Meaning Likely Fabric Character
65:35 65% polyester and 35% viscose Softer handle, better drape and better comfort compared with higher-polyester blends.
70:30 70% polyester and 30% viscose Balanced commercial suiting quality with durability and acceptable comfort.
80:20 80% polyester and 20% viscose More durable and crease-resistant, but may feel more synthetic.
85:15 85% polyester and 15% viscose Often economical and durable, but comfort depends strongly on finishing and fabric construction.

3. Why Polyester and Viscose are Blended

The logic of TR fabric lies in blending two fibres with different strengths. Polyester gives the fabric durability, wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and better recovery, while viscose or rayon gives softness, absorbency, drape and a more comfortable handle.

If a fabric is made from 100% polyester, it may be strong and easy to maintain, but it can feel less absorbent and less comfortable in warm conditions. If a fabric is made from 100% viscose, it may be soft and drapey, but it may wrinkle easily and may not retain shape as well as a polyester-rich fabric.

TR fabric tries to balance these two behaviours. In very simple terms, polyester makes the fabric more practical, while viscose makes the fabric more wearable.

The blending idea can be expressed as:

\( \text{TR Fabric Performance} = f(\text{Polyester Strength}, \text{Viscose Comfort}, \text{Weave}, \text{Finish}) \)

This formula is not a laboratory equation, but a useful way to remember the idea. The final performance of TR fabric does not depend only on fibre content; it also depends on yarn, weave, finishing and garment construction.

4. Properties of TR Fabric

TR fabric is popular because it gives a practical combination of formal appearance, durability and affordability. This is especially useful in markets where garments must look neat, withstand repeated use and remain within a moderate price range.

A well-made TR suiting fabric usually has a smooth surface, good fall, acceptable crease recovery and better resistance to daily wear than many soft cellulosic fabrics. However, the quality can vary widely, so the fabric name alone should never be treated as a guarantee of performance.

Property Practical Meaning in TR Fabric
Strength Usually better than pure viscose because of the polyester component.
Drape Generally better than 100% polyester because viscose improves fall and handle.
Wrinkle Resistance Better than cotton or pure viscose, especially when polyester percentage is higher.
Comfort Usually better than pure polyester, but not as breathable as cotton or linen.
Appearance Smooth, formal and suitable for trousers, suitings and uniforms.
Maintenance Easier to maintain than wool suiting, but garment care still depends on construction.
Cost Generally more economical than wool-rich suiting fabrics.

Visual 2: Main properties of TR fabric for suiting and uniform use.

5. Common Uses of TR Fabric

TR fabric is most commonly associated with suiting and formalwear. In India, it is widely seen in men’s trousers, formal suits, safari suits, waistcoats, blazers, corporate uniforms, school uniforms and institutional clothing.

The reason is simple: these garments require a clean appearance, reasonable durability, acceptable crease recovery and controlled cost. TR fabric meets these requirements better than many fabrics at the same price level.

End Use Why TR Fabric is Suitable
Formal trousers Good crease recovery, smooth appearance and reasonable durability.
Men’s suits Affordable suiting option with a formal look and good fall.
School uniforms Durability, easy maintenance and consistent availability.
Corporate uniforms Neat appearance, repeatable quality and controlled cost.
Safari suits Structured look, practical wearability and formal character.

6. TR Fabric Compared with Other Fabrics

TR fabric should not be understood in isolation. It is best understood by comparing it with 100% polyester, cotton and wool suiting because these are common alternatives in formalwear and uniform fabric selection.

Compared with pure polyester, TR fabric usually feels softer and more comfortable because of the viscose component. Compared with cotton, it usually wrinkles less and gives a more formal trouser-like appearance. Compared with wool suiting, it is usually cheaper and easier to maintain, but it does not have the same premium natural handle.

Fabric Type Main Strength Main Limitation Typical Use
TR Fabric Balanced formal appearance, durability and moderate comfort. May feel synthetic if polyester percentage is very high. Trousers, suits, uniforms and office wear.
100% Polyester High durability, wrinkle resistance and easy care. Lower absorbency and sometimes less comfortable in heat. Uniforms, linings, sportswear and functional apparel.
Cotton Good breathability and comfort. Wrinkles easily and may require more ironing. Shirts, casual wear, summer wear and uniforms.
Wool Suiting Premium appearance, natural drape and tailoring elegance. Higher cost and more careful maintenance. Premium suits, jackets and formal tailoring.

7. How to Identify TR Fabric

A customer may not always be able to identify TR fabric only by looking at it. However, TR fabric usually has a smooth suiting-like surface, moderate body, good fall and better wrinkle recovery than cotton or pure viscose.

When crushed gently in the hand, TR fabric generally recovers better than cotton. It may also have a slightly synthetic resilience, but a softer touch than pure polyester because of the viscose or rayon component.

For accurate identification, one should check the fabric label, mill specification, invoice description or test report. Market names can be confusing, so a fabric sold as TR should ideally be supported by a declared fibre composition and basic quality parameters.

8. Buying and Merchandising Points

For buyers and merchandisers, TR fabric should be evaluated beyond the name. Important points include blend ratio, GSM, width, shrinkage, colour fastness, pilling tendency, handle, fall, crease recovery and suitability for the intended garment.

For trousers, the fabric should have enough body, recovery and surface stability. For uniforms, durability, shade consistency and washing performance are important. For suits, drape, handle and surface appearance become more important.

Buying Checkpoint Why It Matters
Blend ratio Determines the balance between durability, comfort and cost.
GSM and construction Affects body, fall, opacity and garment suitability.
Finish Improves appearance, handle, crease recovery and dimensional stability.
Colour fastness Important for uniforms and repeat-use garments.
Pilling resistance Important because poor-quality blends may develop surface pills with wear.
Shrinkage control Essential for trouser length, waist fit and garment consistency.

Visual 3: Practical buying checklist for TR suiting fabric.

9. Care and Maintenance

TR fabric is generally easier to maintain than wool suiting, but the correct care method depends on the final garment. A simple trouser made from TR fabric may be washable, while a structured coat or suit jacket may require dry cleaning because of lining, interlining, shoulder pads and tailoring construction.

High heat should be avoided during ironing or tumble drying because polyester-containing fabrics can be affected by excessive temperature. It is always better to follow the garment care label rather than assuming the same care method for every TR fabric.

10. Simple Summary

TR fabric is a practical polyester-viscose or polyester-rayon blended fabric, mainly used for suitings, trousers, uniforms and formalwear. Polyester contributes strength, crease recovery and durability, while viscose contributes softness, drape and better comfort.

The most important point is that TR is a commercial fabric category, not a single fixed quality. A good TR fabric depends on the right blend ratio, yarn, weave, finish and end-use suitability.

11. Sources and Further Reading

  1. [1] Nature. “Chemistry of ‘Terylene’.” https://www.nature.com/articles/158930a0
  2. [2] Chemguide. “Polyesters — Terylene and PET.” https://www.chemguide.co.uk/organicprops/esters/polyesters.html
  3. [3] MH Chine. “85/15 Polyester Viscose TR Suiting Fabric.” https://www.mh-chine.com/products/85-15-polyester-viscose-tr-suiting-fabric-8152-0013
  4. [4] Made-in-China. “Terylene Rayon TR Fabric Suit Fabric for Uniform Trousers.” https://m.made-in-china.com/product/Manufacture80-20-31-31-96-80-Terylene-Rayon-Tr-Fabric-Suit-Fabric-for-Uniform-Trousers-1959808272.html
  5. [5] James Dunlop Textiles. “Characteristics of Textile Fibres.” https://www.jamesdunloptextiles.com/journal/tips-how-to/textile-fibres

General Disclaimer

This article is intended for general textile education and practical fabric understanding. Fabric names such as TR, Terry Rayon, Terylene Rayon and poly-viscose may be used differently by different mills, traders and retailers, so actual fibre composition and performance should be confirmed through supplier specifications, labels or testing wherever accuracy is required.

The properties discussed here are general indications and may vary according to fibre blend, yarn count, weave structure, GSM, dyeing, finishing and garment construction. For commercial buying, product development or quality approval, actual fabric samples and test reports should be evaluated before final decisions are made.

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Saturday, 15 August 2015

Notes on Procion Printing- Part 1: Meaning, Types and Printing Paste Preparation



Procion Reactive Dyes in Textile Printing

Part 1: Meaning, Types and Printing Paste Preparation

Reactive dyes occupy a very important place in textile printing, especially for cellulosic fibres such as cotton and viscose. Among them, Procion reactive dyes are well known because they can produce bright shades with good washing and light fastness.

For a textile student, Procion dyes are also interesting because they connect three things together:

dye chemistry, fabric behaviour, and printing technique.

What Are Procion Reactive Dyes?

Procion dyes are a class of reactive dyes. They are called reactive because they do not merely deposit colour on the fibre surface. Instead, they react with the cellulose fibre and form a chemical bond.

This is the key idea.

In many dyes, the colour may remain attached to the fibre through physical attraction or weak forces. But in reactive dyes, the dye molecule chemically combines with the fibre. Because of this, the print becomes more durable.

In simple words:
Procion dyes become chemically linked with cotton or viscose fibres.

This chemical bonding is the reason why Procion dyes generally show good fastness properties.




Why Are Procion Dyes Suitable for Cotton and Viscose?

Cotton and viscose are both cellulosic fibres. Their structure contains hydroxyl groups, which can react with reactive dyes under suitable alkaline conditions.

That is why Procion dyes are mainly used for printing fabrics such as:

  • Cotton
  • Viscose rayon
  • Other cellulosic fabrics

When the right amount of alkali, moisture, temperature and time are provided, the dye reacts with the fibre and becomes fixed.

Important Advantages of Procion Dyes

1. Good Washing Fastness

Since the dye forms a chemical bond with the fibre, the printed colour can withstand washing better than many non-reactive dye systems.

2. Good Light Fastness

Procion dyes also give reasonably good resistance to light, depending on the shade and dye selection.

3. Bright Shades

Reactive dyes are known for producing clear and bright shades. This makes them suitable for printed dress materials, sarees, furnishings and many other cotton-based products.

4. Wide Shade Range

Different Procion dyes can be combined to obtain a wide variety of colours and tones.

Classification of Procion Dyes

Procion dyes can be broadly divided into three classes:

  1. Procion-H
  2. Procion-Supra
  3. Procion-M

The main difference between them is their reactivity.

Reactivity means how quickly and easily the dye reacts with the fibre.

1. Procion-H Dyes

Procion-H dyes are the least reactive among the three groups.

Because they are less reactive, the printing paste prepared with them remains stable for a longer time. This is useful in textile printing because printing paste may have to remain usable during production.

However, because Procion-H dyes are less reactive, they need proper fixation conditions. They are mainly suitable where fixation is done by the steaming process.

Practical Understanding

Procion-H dyes are slow-reacting but stable.

So, they are useful when:

  • The printing paste needs good stability
  • Steaming facility is available
  • Longer fixation conditions can be provided

2. Procion-Supra Dyes

Procion-Supra dyes are more reactive than Procion-H dyes.

They give good washing fastness and are useful where somewhat higher reactivity is needed.

Procion-Supra dyes can also be used along with Procion-H dyes in many cases.

Practical Understanding

Procion-Supra dyes are a middle category.

They are more reactive than Procion-H, but they still offer reasonable process stability.

3. Procion-M Dyes

Procion-M dyes are highly reactive.

Because of their high reactivity, they are widely used in textile printing. They can be used not only in steaming processes but also in certain methods where steaming is not used.

They are also suitable for resist-style printing.

However, there is one important caution.

Because Procion-M dyes are highly reactive, their printing paste does not remain stable for a long time. Therefore, Procion-M paste should be prepared only in the quantity required for immediate use.

Practical Understanding

Procion-M dyes are fast-reacting dyes.

They are useful when:

  • Quick fixation is required
  • High reactivity is desired
  • The paste is going to be used soon after preparation

Difference Between Procion-H, Procion-Supra and Procion-M

Dye Type Reactivity Paste Stability Main Use
Procion-H Low High Mainly steaming process
Procion-Supra Medium Good Printing where better reactivity and fastness are required
Procion-M High Low Quick fixation, resist style, wider process use
A simple way to remember:

Procion-H is stable but slow.
Procion-Supra is intermediate.
Procion-M is highly reactive but less stable in paste.

Can Different Procion Dyes Be Mixed?

Most Procion dyes are compatible with one another and can be used to produce many shades.

However, one practical point is important:

Procion-H and Procion-M should not normally be used together.

This is because their reactivity levels are quite different. One reacts slowly, while the other reacts quickly. This difference may create problems in shade development and fixation.

On the other hand:

Procion-Supra and Procion-H can be used together.

Thickener Used for Procion Dye Printing

In textile printing, the dye cannot be applied like a simple liquid. It has to be converted into a paste so that it remains on the printed area and does not spread uncontrollably.

For this purpose, a thickener is used.

For Procion reactive dyes, the commonly used thickener is:

Sodium Alginate

Sodium alginate is preferred because it is suitable for reactive dye printing. It helps create a smooth printing paste and does not interfere seriously with the dye-fibre reaction.

A good thickener should:

  • Give proper viscosity
  • Allow sharp print outlines
  • Hold the dye on the fabric surface
  • Wash out after fixation
  • Not react negatively with the dye

This is why sodium alginate is generally used for Procion dyes.

Basic Printing Paste for Procion Dyes

A printing paste for Procion dyes generally contains:

  • Procion dye
  • Urea
  • Water
  • Sodium alginate thickener
  • Resist salt
  • Alkali

Each ingredient has a specific role.

Role of Each Ingredient

1. Procion Dye

This is the colouring matter. It reacts with the cellulosic fibre and gives the desired shade.

2. Urea

Urea helps in dissolving the dye and retaining moisture during fixation. Moisture is important because the dye-fibre reaction needs suitable conditions.

For cotton fabrics, urea is generally used in the range of:

50 to 100 parts

For viscose fabrics, it is generally used in the range of:

100 to 200 parts

The exact amount depends on the process and steaming conditions.

3. Water

Water dissolves the dye, urea and alkali and helps in preparing a workable paste.

4. Sodium Alginate

Sodium alginate acts as the thickener. It gives body to the printing paste and helps produce clean printed designs.

5. Resist Salt

Resist salt helps prevent unwanted effects during printing, especially in roller printing and discharge-related situations. It also helps control unwanted reduction or discharge effects.

6. Alkali

Alkali is essential for the reaction between Procion dye and cellulose fibre.

Without alkali, the dye may remain only deposited on the fabric and may not properly react with the fibre.

Common alkalis include:

  • Sodium bicarbonate
  • Sodium carbonate

The choice of alkali depends on the dye type and process.

General Recipe for Procion Dye Printing

A stock thickening paste is first prepared, generally using sodium alginate. The required dye is then added and mixed thoroughly. A high-speed stirrer is used so that the ingredients are properly dispersed.

Ingredient Stock Paste Reduction Paste
Procion dye 50 parts
Urea 50–200 parts 50–200 parts
Water 490–240 parts 540–290 parts
Sodium alginate thickener 350 parts 350 parts
Resist salt 10 parts 10 parts
Alkali: sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate 25 parts or 15 parts 15 parts
Total 1000 parts 1000 parts

Method of Preparing the Printing Paste

One common method is as follows:

  1. Dissolve urea in warm water.
  2. Pour this solution onto the dye powder.
  3. Mix properly so that the dye dissolves.
  4. Add this dye solution to the sodium alginate thickening paste.
  5. Mix thoroughly with a high-speed stirrer.
  6. Add the required alkali after dissolving it in water.
  7. Use the paste for printing.

The paste should be smooth, uniform and free from lumps.

Important Practical Point: Paste Stability

Paste stability is very important in printing.

The paste of Procion-H and Procion-Supra dyes can remain usable for a longer time, up to about 28 days.

But Procion-M paste is not stable for long because the dye is highly reactive.

Therefore:
Prepare Procion-M paste only as much as required for immediate printing.

This is a very practical point in production. If highly reactive dye paste is stored for too long, the dye may lose its effectiveness, and the print quality may suffer.

Practical Summary

Procion dyes are reactive dyes used mainly for printing cotton and viscose fabrics. They form a chemical bond with cellulose fibre and give good washing and light fastness.

The three main types are:

  • Procion-H: least reactive, more stable, suitable for steaming
  • Procion-Supra: moderately reactive, good fastness
  • Procion-M: highly reactive, less stable, useful for quick fixation

Sodium alginate is commonly used as the thickener. Urea, alkali, resist salt and water are important ingredients in the printing paste.

The most important technical point is that reactivity and paste stability are connected. A highly reactive dye like Procion-M works quickly but has lower paste stability. A less reactive dye like Procion-H is slower but more stable.

Knowledge Nugget

In reactive dye printing, alkali is not just an additive. It is the chemical trigger that allows the dye to react with cellulose.

Without alkali, the dye may colour the fabric, but it will not be properly fixed.

Common Mistake

A common mistake is to treat all Procion dyes as if they behave the same way.

They do not.

Procion-H, Procion-Supra and Procion-M differ in reactivity, paste stability and suitable fixation method. Understanding this difference is essential for successful printing.

Reflection Question

Why should Procion-M printing paste be prepared only when required, while Procion-H paste can remain usable for a longer time?

The answer lies in one word:

Reactivity.

Disclaimer and Safety Note: This article is intended for educational and informational purposes only. The recipes, chemical names, quantities, temperatures and process conditions mentioned here are provided to explain the principles of Procion reactive dye printing and should not be treated as direct instructions for unsupervised practical use. Textile printing involves the use of dyes, alkalis, salts, thickeners and other auxiliary chemicals, which should be handled only with proper knowledge, suitable safety precautions and appropriate supervision. Before using any chemical, always refer to the latest supplier technical data sheet, safety data sheet and applicable local regulations. Use appropriate personal protective equipment, ensure good ventilation, safe storage, careful measurement, spill control and responsible disposal of chemical residues and wastewater. The author and publisher do not accept responsibility for any loss, damage, injury or environmental harm arising from the direct or indirect use of the information given in this article, and readers are advised to consult trained textile processing professionals before attempting any laboratory or industrial application.

Continued in Part-2

Wednesday, 12 August 2015

Is Art Silk a type of Silk ?



This term made popular by catalog-centric websites is a misnomer. Art Silk in the technical circles, is a synonym for rayon.

However, now art silk is a euphemism for the articles made in polyester, nylon or acrylic.It is also known as polysilk.

One can find out the difference between the real silk, rayon and the "art silk" ( nylon, polyester, and acrylic) by burning a small yarn from the fabric and identifying the bead and smell.

See Also

Fiber Identification of Man-made fibres

Fiber Identification of Natural Fibers



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