What is Single, 1.5, double warp in Kanjivaram Sarees

1. Kanjivaram Sarees Use 20-22 denier 3 ply filaments. 

2. Single warp means 100 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a single warp is 4900. 

3. 1.5 warp means 150 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 1.5 inches warp is 7350. 

4. Double warp means 200 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 2 inches warp is 9800. 

5. Generally, the number of picks are more for single warp, then for 1.5 warp or double warp. 

6. Generally 72, 74, 76 PPi is used. 

Minimum Width of Handloom and Power loom Sarees in Salem

	Handloom	Powerloom
Single Warp	46-47.5	44-46
1.5 Warps	46-47.5	44.5-46
2 Warps	46.47.5	45-46

 

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What are the Various Wild Silk Yarns

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1. Reeled Tussar/ Tussar Raw Silk: It is reeled from Tussar cocoons using different appliance. Reeled Tussar is finer in nature.
   
   
2. TussarGicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of Tussar cocoons without any twist.
   
   
3. Tussar Katia: Yarn spun out of Tussar waste after opening and cleaning.
   
   
4. Tussar Jhuri: Yarn spun out of uncleaned Tussar waste without subjecting it to opening and cleaning process.
   
   
5. Balkal yarn: Yarn spun out of Tussar cocoon peduncles, after boiling in alkaline solution and opened up.
   
   
6. Tussar Spun Silk: Yarn spun in the mill out of Tussar silk waste.
   
   
7. Muga Raw Silk: Yarn reeled from Muga cocoons.
   
   
8. Muga Gicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of muga cocoons without any twist.
   
   
9. Hand Spun Endi/ Eri Silk: Yarn spun by hand appliances from Eri cocoons.
   
   
10. Mill Spun Eri Yarn: Yarn spun in the mill from Eri cocoons.

You can find here the various wild silk fabrics and how to take care of silk. 

How Cocoons are measured in Wild Silk ( Vanya Silk)

 Tussar Cocoons:

The unit of measurement of tussar cocoons is Kahan. Number of Cocoons per Kahan vary in different states. In MP one Kahan has 1000 cocoons while in Maharashtra it has 4000 Cocoons. 

About 1200 cocoons are required to produce one kg of yarn. 

ERI

The Eri cocoons are measured on the basis of weight ( kg)

MUGA

The Muga cocoons are transacted in thousand numbers. About 5000 cocoons are required to produce 1 kg of Muga Raw Silk.

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What do you Mean by Vanya Silk

 Non mulberry silks such as Tussar, Muga and Eri are called Vanya silks. 

Production Trends ( 2010-11)

Vanya Silk contributed to about 20% of the total raw silk in India.

Eri, Tussar and Muga contributed to about 64%, 33% and 3% of the total Vanya silk

It contributes to about 10% of the total exports of silk goods 

Tussar Silk

Silk Worm : Antheraea mylitta and Antheraea proylei

Feed on: Asan,  Arjun and Oak

India is the second largest producer or Tussar Silk

History: Ram's nuptial gift to Sita included Tussar Silk

Muga Silk

Silk Worm : Antheraea assamensis

Feed on: Som and Sualu

Use of Muga Yarn instead of Zari is finding its support in Indian Weavers

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