What is Scroop Finish

Scroop is a term used commonly as a finish with synthetic fibers and silk. 

In case of silk scroop is the crunchy feel as well as rustly sound that is produced in the fiber on use. Scroop is like the feeling of squeezing a big bag of corn starch or stepping down into a very powdery snow. 

Scroop is not an inherent property of silk. 

Scroop can be induced in silk in two ways:

One way is to leave the gum of the silk (sericin) behind and not remove it. Sericin has a high coefficient of friction and hence resists the easy sliding of fibers one over the other. Vibrations created by friction produce the sound. 

The other way is by treating silk with organic acid such as formic, lactic, citric or acetic acid in a concentration of 2-4 ml/l and drying without washing. 

In case of synthetic fibers, cohesive agents are used to increase the fiber-to-fiber friction. However, it will increase a property called scroop. The attribute is so named, because of the sound that the staple bundle makes when it is squeezed. It is caused by resistance to the fiber movement that results from the increase in friction between the fibers. If a fabric is made from a yarn having high scroop level- a harsh handle is produced. 

Reference: This is an amazing reading on silk by MIT

* By the way - Unrelated to the post- Cashmilon is made of acrylic and not nylon. 

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Kolhapuri Chappals

Kolhapuri Chappals

http://www.kolhapurichappal.co.in/

Origin

Kolhapur, Maharashtra

Uniqueness

These chappals make peculiar sound- kar..kar..kar- while walking to attract others. This sound repels animals while walking in forests. This is done by placing a particular type of seed in the two layers of the sole to make sound. The seed is obtained from the “Vinchu” tree.

Types

There are broadly three types of the chappals on the basis of the weight

Regular

These have regular weight

Paper Kapsi

These are feather light chappals

Jada

These are thicker version of the chappals.

Technique and Limitations

1. Natural Tan is used.

2. The entire process takes about 45 days.

3. The sides are cut when the leather is still semi wet. Once the sides dry out, they shrink resulting in smaller sizes and fits.

4. The layers of the leather in the sole are attached using a unique mud from nearby river. Due to these layers sometimes separate causing discomfort.

5.  the Stiff base sometimes turns soggy in water.

6. The two sides of the toe are stitched one above the other and then pushed between the sole. Sometimes they produce discomfort.

7. Sizing is an issue, as the artisans use fingers for sizing.

8. The top and bottom sole patterns are stitched around the edges of the heel. Once the edges get frayed, the heels begin to fall off. 

Wearing-in of the Kolhapuri Chappals is always an issue. Here are some of the guidelines. These also include the care and preservation of these articles.  (Adapted from this source)

1. If the kolhapuri chapal is too tight, dip the chappal in a tap water for two seconds and remove it. This will make the leather soft and the chappal takes the shape of your foot.

2. If the chappal is stiff, apply oil with the help of cotton to soften it. 

3. It is best to use in winter and summer seasons. (Do not use in water or rainy season).

Note: This is my first post on footwear. I could not resist as these are so much tied with the overall looks of the Indian ethnic wear. I intend to write more in the future.

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How to Preserve and Store your Precious Saris and Ethnic Dress Material-2

Storage of Textile Material

1. Avoid wood, cardboard, plastic and metal or use a heavy duty aluminium foil in between.

2. Cotton sheets can be used. But they need to washed periodically.

3. Do not use garment plastic bag, as there is no air circulation, no protection from light and plstic is non recommended.

There are two types of storage- Vertical and Horizontal

Vertical Storage

Use only that garment for vertical storage, if it is sturdy at the shoulder area.

The following are the steps depicting the storage: Source

Horizontal or Boxed Storage

Horizontal or boxed storage provides support for whole of the textile.

1. Line the box or shelf with unbleached muslin
2. Do not fold the textile. If not avoidable, pad the creases with muslin.
3. Do not stack several textiles one over the other.
4. If they are to be stacked, used acid free paper between them.
5. Store in a dark place, where there is stable heat, humidity and good air circulation.
6. Do not use Moth balls, when storing, while they discourage larvae, they are not repellent and are a suspected carcinogen.

Mending and Repairing 

The rule is always use like with like. So silk should be repaired with silk thread and cotton should be with cotton thread. One can use an inert thread such as polyester. 

Source

How to Preserve and Store your Precious Saris and Ethnic Dress Material-1

The following material is summarized from a brilliant Phd thesis submitted by Kirti Manek. 

Humidity and temperature affect textiles the most. A high relative humidity leads to the fibers absorbing water and become swollen and low relative humidity causes the fibers to give off the moisture. This leads to abrasion and in presence of dust particles it becomes even more detrimental. It can also initiate dye yellowing, bleeding and natural browning of the fiber. High humidity will lead to moth and mildew activity. 

http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/7513/14/14_chapter%203.pdf

Silica gel placed inside the cupboard can normalize the relative humidity. Quick lime lumps can also be used for dehumidification. One can also use sufficient quantity of cotton hidden inside concealed cases; cotton being hydroscopic, will absorb the moisture. All the measures as given above can reduce humidity. 

Light affects both dyes and fibers. It fades the dyes and degrades the fibers. Prevent the textiles from getting exposed to light until absolutely needed. 

Silver fish, cloth moth, cockroaches, termites are some of the insects that can damage the textile fibers. Silver fish feeds of starch present in the fibers- left over of sizing and starching. Damage by cloth moths is done by their caterpillars after coming out of eggs. Carpet beetles feed on wool and silk, they leave neat holes in the cloth with powder of the same color.Cockroaches stain the textile material with their excreta. Termites feed on anything made of cellulose. Even microbes such as fungi, algae and bacteria can discolor the textiles and reduce its performance properties. 

Use napthalene balls. One can use dhoop ( Guggal) or Ashwagandha to prevent from insects. One can use liquid insecticides and all storage drawers can be treated with those. Vacuuming the textiles and dry cleaning it will keep it free from microorganisms. 

Will continue in the next Post