Learning about Viscose, Modal and Tencel

The production process of the three fibers has been convered elsewhere in the blog. Here I would like to discuss some of the properties useful for fabric buyers for comparison.

In dry state viscose is only slight weaker than cotton. However, in the wet state, the strength is about 38% that of cotton. That makes it a very tricky fiber to blend with cotton and subsequent dyeing with cotton. The fabric undergoes changes in shape when wet processing.

Also strength of cotton increases when wet- being 1.14 times that in dry state. However, for viscose it is about 0.5 times that in dry state. This necesssitates that the viscose should be dry cleaned rather than ordinarily washed.

Modal's strength is comparable to cotton in dry state. In wet state, it is about 78% of the cotton strength. For Tencel, it is much more than cotton both in dry and wet state.

A table comparing the properties of the three is given below:

The above table represents three fibers from Birla. VSF is the first generation viscose. Modal is second generation and Tencel is the third generation viscose.

This Link describes the precautions to be followed in viscose processing.

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Complete Free Course in Spinning

Complete free course in spinning!And that too, by none other than the masters of Spinning Technology, Rieter.

 Look no further, Rikipedia, has brought for you the complete course in fiber preparation, spinning preparation and yarn manufacturing.

 Please click this link to access the course.

 I just wish I could use this while I was a student.

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Weaving of Pintuck four line

A very popular fabric is made in the Bijnor cluster where the picks are crammed after every inch or so so as to form distinct cords which in the market is called as pintuck. The fabric has a popularity as a fabric for Indian ethnic garments for mens and ladies.

The technique of weaving uses dobby mechanism on powerloom with four shafts. Two warping beams are used. The upper beam is at lower tension than the lower beam. The upper beam is used to make a shed for the crammed in picks whereas lower beam makes the ground fabric.

The order of drawing in is 1-3-2-4. Shafts Number 1 and 2 ( counted from the front) are used for weaving ground weave whereas 3 and 4 for the pintucking operation.

Here are some pictures. I have also uploaded a video ( some part of it to be seen by looking sideways).

A view of the top warp beam

A view of the bottom warp beam

Dobby and dobby chain

Final Fabric

The two warp beams

                             
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Pyjamas and Khadi- A visit to Khurrampur Village, Bijnor

It was refreshing to see the changed status of women of Khurrampur, using their home stitching machines and making Pyjamas  that are going to be sold in the markets at the Metros and T-2 and T-3 cities of India.

Thanks to the initiative taken by the sourcing arm of an ethnic retail company in India, this is one of the many projects undertaken by this company to improve the status of women in this country, besides providing the sustainable means of livelihood.

Traditionally these women are weaving handspun  khadi in their homes getting some meagre wages from the middlemen on the pitlooms. With the direct intervention their economic situation will undoubtedly improve.

Here are some of the pictures of that village. They have completed their orders of khadi for this season. Hence all the looms are without warps. However, thanks to the pyjama project, women can continue to earn their livelihood by stitching.

Look at the Pit and Small Khadi Loom

A view of the Rainbow in Khurrampur Village

Grandson and Proud Grandfather- Khurrampur

Notice the cord to lift the frames

Wooden Warpers beam

One More Khadi weaving Pitloom

Pitlooms are a part of every family in Khurrampur village

Instrument to Wind Yarn

Government is Doing its Bit

Side View of the Khadi Loom

Craft is everywhere in the village

A view of the open Sky with silver clouds

New Tool for Empowerment- Stitching Machine