Treasure House of Information of Indian Traditional Textile Processes

The website of All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA) is an amazing resource of information about the traditional craft processes. This organization has introduced Craftmark certification. It prohibits child labor, and guarantees that hand-made aspect of the craft processes are used. They have done extensive research in the craft regions of the country and have come up with diagnostic studies on the regions.  All the studies are available on this site for reference. They have also listed, documented and kept for reference the traditional craft process such as Ajrak, Kalamkari, Maheshwari and Chanderi printing. This site is a must for Indian traditional craft enthusiast.

Download Links

1.       Traditional Craft Processes

2.       Diagnostic Studies of Crafts 

3.       Handcraft Sector in India- Frost and Sullivan Study

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going to do? You should join the Forum.

difference between Sujni and Kantha

The difference between Sujni and Kantha - Please read this document for full description      

Sujni (Source of Image)

 

Sujni is very similar to Kantha. Because both are made of old materials and

embroider with the thread unpicked from borders of saris. But they differ in techniques:

Kantha (Source of Image)

•  In Sujni, running stitch worked in straight line but in Kantha they use spiral,

circular and conical forms.

•  In Sujni the outline of the motifs are done by chain stitch in dark colour but in

Kantha out lines are done by running stitch.

•  In Sujni the motifs are filled with running stitch and rest of the area is also

embroidering by the running stitch with the same base colour thread but in Kantha only

motifs are filled.

 

Difference between Chanderi and Maheshwari Silk Saris

The Following Text is taken from this document

Difference between Chanderi and Maheshwari Silk Saris

1. In Chanderi saris the designs are created on weft while in maheshwari saris the

designs are created on warp in the beginning itself and the weft remain same.  

2. While Maheshwari saris use around 4000 strings in warp, Chanderi saris use

more than 5600 strings and are therefore much more intricate and delicate.

3. Maheshwari saris normally use more linear patterns and less motifs while

Chanderi saris use a lot of motifs and they are mostly traditional floral.

4. The motifs used in Chanderi saris are more intricate than those in Maheshwari

saris.

5. Maheshwari saris use broad borders which follow patterns similar to those on

the walls of the fort of Maheshwari. Chanderi saris use a variety of designs in the

border.

 

How to get the required width and weight of knitted fabric

A Reader has posed this query to me:

"We have difficulties in getting the required width and weight of the knitted fabric we make. In our knitting machine we are using guage 24, 100% cotton yarn, Ne 30/1.
1) What is the weight of the unfinished fabric we should make ?

2) shall we keep the unfinished knitted fabric (100% cotton) for a certain period of time prior the dyeing or bleaching process ? If yes, then how many hours ?

3) In the calendering process: shall we change the width of the fabric which we recieve from the dyeing process ?? For example, if the width of the knitted fabric after dyeing/bleaching is 88 cm. Shall we keep the same width during the calenderig process or shall we increase it ??

4) Shall we keep the unfinished knitted fabric for a certain period of time prior we transfer it to production (cutting & sewing) ??? if yes, how many hours ??

5) When is the best time for measuring knitted fabric weight ?? Is it immediately after the knitting process and after the bleaching process ?? or shall we wait for some hours or days till the fabric take it's final shape after both processes ??? "


I welcome your comments.

Joy of Kalamkari Handpainting

Read this document to understand the whole process. Buffalo milk is used so that while painting, the color should not spread to the other sites. 

http://www.thechromaacademy.com

The process broadly is the same. First of all Tannin is applied on the cloth by dipping it into myrobalan. Then black outline, filling is done using Ferrous acetate solution using indigenous methods. Then alum is applied on the portion where red is desired. Then solution is boiled with Alizarin to get the red colors. 

After that the cloth is dried, and yellow is applied by mixing myrobalan with Alum. Blue is applied by mixing Indigo solution in an alkaline solution of Lime and Fuller's earth. To get a green, blue is applied on the solutions which are already yellow. 

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going to do? You should join the Forum.

Joy of Kalamkari Printing- Process in pictures

I just had a trip to Andhra Pradesh. Watching Kalamkari printing was a fascinating experience. Here is a glimpse of Kalamkari process in pictures.

Diluted Ferrous Solution is Used to Get Teal color

Indigo or Ratanjyot is used to Get Blue Color

Alizarin Paste is Used to Get Pink Color

Flower is used to get this Gold Yellow Color

Conc. Ferrous solution is used to get this black color

Alum Gad is Boiled with Anar Chilka to Get Beige Background

Alum Gad is boiled with Alizarin to get Red background

Iron Solution Gad is boiled with Alizarin to get the black background

To have a more structured process knowledge, please read this document.

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going to do? You should join the Forum.

How to Calculate Maximum EPI and PPI for a Fabric with Given Count

A Reader has asked me this question:

“ I want to know how to calculate max EPI and PPI of the given count. For Example, if we take 50s pv warp X 150 D  100% polyester weft, what will the max EPI and PPI if we weave it for plain, 2/2 twill,and satin.”

Here Mr. Ashenhurst can rescue us. The following method is based on his book “Textile Calculation and Structure of Fabrics”. Here the assumption is there is only one count of thread in both warp and weft. If there are two different counts of warp and wefts, threads per inch should be found out for both of them and then suitably adjusted.

The General formula to calculate Maximum EPI and PPI for a Given count of Warp and Weft

Now in a plain weave in a repeat there are 2 threads and 2 intersections. For 2/2 Twill in one repeat of 4 threads there will be 4 threads and 2 intersections.

Also as a rule please remember that 40s count yarn diameter is 1/165 of an inch.

To convert it to the yarn diameter of 50s warp we use the following formula

Which means for 50s PV Warp the diameter will be

Thus the Maximum Threads per inch for a plain weave will be 184 as this will be the diameter of the Yarn.

For 2/2 Twill be they will be ( From the Formula above)

Which means x will be equal to 122 threads per inch

Similarly for Satin weave one can find out the maximum ends and picks per inch

Please remember however that this is theoretical construct. Actual threads per inch are generally less than that.

To Calculate the Cotton Equivalent of 150 D, We use the formulaà count= 5315/denier, Which means it is equal to 35.43 or 35 count.

The Diameter for 35 count yarn will be ( Using the formula above) = 154.34 th of an inch

Then you can use the same equation to calculate the Maximum EPI and PPI

In these examples there is no allowance for bending, shrinkage or compression, the threads should be reduced or increased proportionately in case the fabric is subjected to bending, shrinkage or compression.

Indian Traditional Textiles- The document

traditionaltextiles.pdf

Sindhi Taropa Style of Kathiawar

The Sindhi Taropa denotes the interlacing stich embroidery-- the basic structure which is first built up with the use of long thread stitches into the surface and entire structure being built up thereafter by looping these threads, the overall effect produced is geometrical; floral patterns or figures, whatever is worked out through this type of stitch become-somewhat stylized. Practically the stitch is used as a means of achieving only an impression of the figure or motif which is aimed at.

How to calculate the weight of Fabric

How to Calculate the Weight of Fabric from Count, EPI, PPI and Width

One very common practical question in fabric sourcing is:

“If I know the yarn count, fabric width, ends per inch and picks per inch, can I estimate how much warp and weft yarn is required for 100 metres of fabric?”

The answer is yes. We can estimate it quite reasonably, especially for cotton woven fabrics, provided we understand the assumptions behind the calculation.

This calculation is useful for merchandisers, fabric buyers, converters, traders and small fabric suppliers because yarn prices change frequently. If the yarn price increases, the fabric price should also move logically. Without a basic calculation, it becomes difficult to judge whether the quoted fabric price is reasonable or inflated.

Suggested Visual 1: Fabric weight calculation map — count, EPI, PPI, width and crimp.

Information Required

To calculate the approximate fabric weight, we need the following details:

1. Warp yarn count
2. Weft yarn count
3. Ends per inch, also called EPI or reed
4. Picks per inch, also called PPI
5. Fabric width in inches
6. Warp crimp percentage
7. Weft crimp percentage

For a quick practical estimate, we may assume:

Parameter	Assumed Value
Warp crimp	10%
Weft crimp	3%
1 metre	1.0936 yards
1 pound	453.59 grams
Cotton count basis	840 yards per hank

Practical Note: Warp crimp and weft crimp are not fixed values. They change with weave, yarn type, fabric density, finishing and shrinkage. The values of 10% and 3% are only working assumptions.

The Basic Cotton Count Formula

In the English cotton count system:

\( \text{Cotton Count} = \frac{\text{Length in yards}}{840 \times \text{Weight in pounds}} \)

Therefore:

\( \text{Weight in pounds} = \frac{\text{Length in yards}}{\text{Count} \times 840} \)

This is the foundation of the fabric weight calculation.

Warp Weight per Metre

The warp weight per running metre can be calculated as:

\( \text{Warp weight per metre in grams} = \frac{\text{EPI} \times \text{Width in inches} \times \text{Warp crimp factor}} {\text{Warp count} \times 840} \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

Where:

\( \text{Warp crimp factor} = 1 + \frac{\text{Warp crimp percentage}}{100} \)

For 10% warp crimp:

\( \text{Warp crimp factor} = 1.10 \)

Weft Weight per Metre

The weft weight per running metre can be calculated as:

\( \text{Weft weight per metre in grams} = \frac{\text{PPI} \times \text{Width in inches} \times \text{Weft crimp factor}} {\text{Weft count} \times 840} \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

For 3% weft crimp:

\( \text{Weft crimp factor} = 1.03 \)

Suggested Visual 2: Warp and weft yarn consumption with crimp allowance.

Total Fabric Weight per Running Metre

The total fabric weight per running metre is:

\( \text{Fabric weight per metre} = \text{Warp weight per metre} + \text{Weft weight per metre} \)

This gives the approximate weight of one running metre of fabric.

To calculate the yarn required for 100 metres:

\( \text{Weight for 100 metres} = \text{Fabric weight per metre} \times 100 \)

Worked Example

Let us take a cotton fabric with the following construction:

Parameter	Value
Warp count	40s cotton
Weft count	40s cotton
Ends per inch	80
Picks per inch	72
Width	47 inches
Warp crimp	10%
Weft crimp	3%

Step 1: Warp Weight

\( \text{Warp weight} = \frac{80 \times 47 \times 1.10}{40 \times 840} \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

\( \text{Warp weight} = 61.06 \text{ grams per metre} \)

Step 2: Weft Weight

\( \text{Weft weight} = \frac{72 \times 47 \times 1.03}{40 \times 840} \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

\( \text{Weft weight} = 51.46 \text{ grams per metre} \)

Step 3: Total Fabric Weight

\( 61.06 + 51.46 = 112.52 \text{ grams per running metre} \)

So, the approximate fabric weight is:

\( \boxed{112.52 \text{ grams per metre}} \)

For 100 metres:

\( 112.52 \times 100 = 11252 \text{ grams} \)

\( 11252 \text{ grams} = 11.25 \text{ kg} \)

Therefore, approximately:

\( \boxed{11.25 \text{ kg of yarn is required for 100 metres of fabric}} \)

How to Calculate GSM from This

Many people confuse grams per metre with GSM.

Grams per metre tells us the weight of one running metre of fabric.

GSM means grams per square metre.

\( \text{GSM} = \frac{\text{Weight per running metre in grams}} {\text{Width in metres}} \)

For 47 inches width:

\( 47 \text{ inches} = 1.1938 \text{ metres} \)

Therefore:

\( \text{GSM} = \frac{112.52}{1.1938} \)

\( \text{GSM} = 94.25 \)

So this fabric is approximately:

\( \boxed{94 \text{ GSM}} \)

Common Confusion: A 47-inch fabric and a 60-inch fabric may have different weight per running metre even if their GSM is similar. Running metre weight depends on width; GSM is normalized to one square metre.

Suggested Visual 3: Difference between grams per running metre and GSM.

Practical Formula in One Line

For quick calculation:

\( \text{Fabric weight per metre} = \left[ \frac{\text{EPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.10} {\text{Warp count} \times 840} + \frac{\text{PPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.03} {\text{Weft count} \times 840} \right] \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

This gives fabric weight in grams per running metre.

For 100 metres:

\( \text{Weight for 100 metres} = \text{Fabric weight per metre} \times 100 \)

Important Practical Notes

1. This is an estimate, not the final invoice weight

The formula gives the theoretical yarn weight in the fabric. In real production, the final weight may change due to sizing, desizing, bleaching, dyeing, finishing, shrinkage and moisture regain.

2. Crimp must be adjusted for fabric type

A plain fabric, twill fabric, satin fabric, dobby fabric and heavy canvas will not have the same crimp. Warp crimp and weft crimp should ideally be measured from the actual sample.

3. Width matters

The formula uses fabric width in inches. If the width increases from 47 inches to 60 inches, the yarn requirement increases proportionately.

4. Count system matters

This formula is for cotton count or English count. It should not be directly used for denier, tex or metric count without conversion.

5. Add process wastage separately

If you are calculating yarn purchase requirement, add suitable wastage.

\( \text{Purchase requirement} = \text{Calculated yarn weight} \times (1 + \text{Wastage percentage}) \)

If 3% wastage is assumed:

\( 11.25 \times 1.03 = 11.59 \text{ kg} \)

So, for production planning, you may require approximately 11.6 kg instead of only 11.25 kg.

Corrected Understanding of the Original Formula

The earlier formula was fundamentally sound:

\( \left[ \frac{\text{EPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.10}{\text{Warp count} \times 840} + \frac{\text{PPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.03}{\text{Weft count} \times 840} \right] \times \frac{1.09 \times 1000}{2.2} \)

But it can be made more accurate as:

\( \left[ \frac{\text{EPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.10}{\text{Warp count} \times 840} + \frac{\text{PPI} \times \text{Width} \times 1.03}{\text{Weft count} \times 840} \right] \times 1.0936 \times 453.59 \)

The difference is small, but the corrected version is technically cleaner because it uses more accurate conversion constants.

Final Rule of Thumb

To estimate woven cotton fabric weight:

Fabric weight depends mainly on four things: yarn count, EPI, PPI and width.

Finer yarn means lower weight.
Higher EPI or PPI means higher weight.
Greater width means higher running-metre weight.
Higher crimp means more yarn consumption.

Once this logic is understood, fabric costing becomes much more transparent.

General Disclaimer

The calculations and explanations in this article are intended for educational and practical estimation purposes. Actual fabric weight may vary depending on yarn quality, weave structure, crimp, sizing, finishing, moisture content, shrinkage and testing conditions. For commercial costing, production planning or quality approval, calculations should be verified with actual sample testing and mill-specific data.

All About Ajrak Process

This (http://www.ajrakhprinting.co.in) is an amazing website giving in amazing details the process of Ajrak Printing. Owned by Ranamal Khatri, the master craftman, this website can be used as an authentic one to study the process.I met Mr. Ranamal Khatri during my visit to Jodhpur. This site will give you a glimpse of the joy of watching Ajrak Made. This gives in details the process, the receipe, the comparison with the earlier process and a mouth-watering view of the products. To top it all, he has put in the process video wherein one can have a look at the process in action. And last but not the least, a look at the artisans working in his workshop and who have made it possible is given. Here are some pictures from the website:

Receipe

Video of the Process

Ajrak Saris

Artisans 

Awards won by Him 

There is a very good M.Des. Research done by B. Sinduja. You can access it here

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going to do? You should join the Forum.

Vocabulary of Kantha

Here is a website that gives you the vocabulary of Kantha alongwith the basic stitches.