Saturday, 28 February 2009
Stitched seams are divided into eight classes according to the type and minimum number of components within the seam.
These components which can be the main fabrics of the garment or some additional items such as a lace etc, are termed as being of 'limited' or 'unlimited' width.
where a component is referred to as being limited on one side, that side might be the cut edge of the garment piece that is being seamed.
Where a component is referred to as being unlimited on one side, that edge might be the far edge of the garment panel irrelevent to the seam under consideration.( Figure-1)
Class-I (Superimposed Seams)
It is produced with a minimum of two components both limited on the same side. A variation of the superimposed seam is the french seam.
Class-II ( Lapped Seam)
Seams in this class are produced with a minimum of two components but with these, one is limited on one side and the second is limited on the other side. The components are opposite and at different levels and overlap each other.
Class -III ( Bound Seams)
In this class, seams are produced with a minimum of two components , one is limited to one side with the second is limited on both sides.
Class-iV (Flat Stitching)
In this class, seams are produced with a minimum of two components of which one is limited on one side and the second on the other. The two components are opposite and on the same level. These seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges do not overlap. They may be butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needles sewing into each fabric.
Class-V (Decorative Stitching)
Seams in this class are produced with a minimum of two components unlimited on two sides. Any other component is either limited on one side or limited on two sides.
Class-VI (Edge Neating)
It is produced with only one component limited on one side (either on the right or the left). Seam types in this class include those where fabric edges are neated by means of stitches as well as folded hems and edges.
Wednesday, 25 February 2009
1. Seam: A seam is the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thicknesses of material.
Stitching is applied to situations where there is only one piece of fabric, such as when fabric edges are neated or hems created, and where decorative sewing is involved.
Objective of Sewing: Are the construction of seams whcih combine the required standards of appearance and performance with in appropriate level of economy in application.
Good Apppearance of Seams: It means smooth fabric joins with no missed or uneven stitches and no damage to the material being sewn.
Performance of Seams: It means the achievement of strength, elasticity, durability, security and comfort, and the maintenance of any specialised fabric properties such as waterproofing or flameproofing.
1. Seams must be strong as the fabric, in directions both parallel to and at right angles to the seam.
2. Seams must be durable to the kind of abrasion experienced in washing and wearing as well as secure against fraying apart or the unravelling of the stitches.
3. A seam in a close fitting garment must not present an uncomfortable ridge or roughness to the skin.
4. It must not damage the fabric along the stitch line.
Factors to be considered while sewing
1. Seam Type: Particular configuration of seams in fabrics.
2. Stitch Type: Particular configuration of threads of in the fabric.
3. The Sewing machine feeding mechanism- It moves the fabric past the needle and enables a succession of stitches to be formed.
4. The needle which inserts the thread into the fabric.
5. The thread which forms the stitch which either holds the fabric together, neatens it or decorates it.