Fabric Losses during Spreading

The percentages of various costs that add up to the garment cost are as follows:

1.Raw Material cost: 50%

2.Direct labour Cost: 20%

3.Indirect Labour charges and factory overheads: 30%

The raw material cost ranges from 40% for hosiery to 60% for lingerie. The cost of fabrics is 80% of the cost of raw material. 

The fabrics can be broadly divided into the following three categories:

1. Tubular Knitted Fabric

2. Narrow open width fabric: The fabric width can accommodate two body pieces. Maximum market efficiency can be achieved if the number of smaller pattern pieces in the garment are relatively more. 

3. Wide open width fabric: This type of fabric is having a width of 1.5 meters and three body pieces can be placed in the width of the fabric. 

Fabric Losses

During the cutting process two types of fabric losses occur:

1. Marking Loss

2. Spreading Loss

Marking Loss arises due to the gap and the nonuseable areas at places between the pattern pieces of a marker. Marker efficiency indicates the amount of marking loss. 

Spreading loss is the fabric loss outside the marker. The various fabrics outside the marker are classified into different groups:

1. End of Ply Loss

2. End of Piece Losses

3. Edge Losses

4. Splicing Losses 

5. Remnant Losses

6. Ticket length Losses

1. End of Ply loss: The flexibility, limpness, extensibility alongwith the limitation of the spreading machinery necessitates an allowance of some fabric at the end of each ply. These losses may be upto 2 cm at each end or 4 cm per ply.

The end of ply loss is 1-2% of the total fabric usage. 

2.  End of Piece(Thaan) Losses: In textile industry, fabrics are produced and processed in different batches. This makes the fabric ends unsitable for use due to marks or distortions created.  

The end of piece varies from 0.5-1% of the total fabric usage. 

The loss is minimized if the average length of pieces that are purchased is increased. 

3. Edge Losses:  In normal practice during marker planning, the width of the marker is kept a few centimeters less than the edge-to-edge width of the fabric. The marker is made according to the usable width of the fabric. The usable fabric width depends upon the quality of the selvedge, the consistency of fabric width, and also on the precision of edge control during spreading. Let the fabric edge-to-edge width is 100 cm, and the marker width is 3 cm less than the fabric width. The edge loss is 3%. If the fabric edge-to-edge width is 150 cm, the loss is 2%.

Thus wider width has other benefits besides improved marker efficiency. 

4. Splicing Losses: Splicing is the process of overlapping cut ends ( the end of one length of the fabric and the beginning of the other) of two separate pieces of the fabrics so that the spreading is continuous.  Splicing is necessary as one roll of fabric is finished and the next taken into use. 

Also during spreading there may be some objectionable fabric faults, which make the product unsalable or substandard. These fausts are removed by cutting the lay at the fault point and incorporating splicing position into marker plans. 

During splicing the splicing line should be so selected that none of the pattern pieces contains the fault is incomplete. 

The position of the splice lines also dependent on the quality of the fabric being spread. If cutting out faulty material at the lay is a regular requirement, it is vital that the markers are provided with clearly defined splice lines. 

The splicing losses may vary up to the 5% of the total fabric usage. 

5. Remnant Losses: Remnant lengths are produced whenever companies separate different shades of fabric pieces and lay up only complete plies. 

Remnants are also generated when short lengths of material are left over after the completion of the lay, and are returned to the stores. 

All remnants are put to one side and cut separately. 

6. Length Losses ( L Losses): Woven fabrics and some knitted fabrics are sold by length.  Each fabrics piece is measured by the fabric supplier and a ticket is attached to each piece indicating the length for which the customer is invoiced. In many cases the gross length and the net length are marked in the ticket. This loss can be reduced by inspecting the length of the incoming fabric and reporting the fabric supplier in case of yardage short. 

Source

What is FPT ( Fabric Package/Performance Test) and GPT ( Garment Package/Performance Test)

What is FPT and GPT in Garment and Fabric Testing?

In garment manufacturing, the product is not judged only by how it looks at the time of shipment. A garment may look perfect on the inspection table, but the real test begins when the customer starts using and washing it. This is where FPT and GPT become important.

FPT means Fabric Package Test or Fabric Performance Test. It checks whether the fabric is suitable for garment production. GPT means Garment Package Test or Garment Performance Test. It checks whether the finished garment will perform satisfactorily after washing and use.

Simple difference:
FPT asks: “Is this fabric technically fit for production?”
GPT asks: “Will the finished garment behave properly after customer use?”

Visual 1: Flow from fabric testing to garment performance testing.

Why are FPT and GPT Required?

In apparel production, many problems are not visible in the beginning. A fabric may shrink after washing. A seam may open. A dark colour may bleed. A print may fade. A button may come off. A zipper may not move freely after wash. These failures may not be noticed during normal visual inspection, but they can lead to customer complaints, returns and brand damage.

FPT and GPT are therefore preventive tests. They help the buyer, manufacturer and merchandiser identify risk before bulk production or before shipment.

What is GPT: Garment Package / Performance Test?

GPT is performed on finished garments. The main purpose is to check how the garment performs after washing as per the care label. The test tries to simulate the way a customer will wash and use the garment at home.

Generally, three identical garments are required for GPT:

1. One garment for dimensional stability — to check shrinkage or growth after washing.
2. One garment for appearance evaluation — to observe change in look, handle, pilling, puckering, twisting or other defects.
3. One garment for seam slippage and seam strength — to check whether seams remain secure after washing and stress.

For button pull testing, a mock placket or mock patti may be prepared with buttons attached to it. This helps test button attachment strength without depending only on the garment sample.

Important Points Checked in GPT

• Dimensional stability: Does the garment shrink or grow after washing?
• Appearance after wash: Does the garment still look acceptable?
• Puckering: Are seams or panels showing unwanted wrinkling?
• Pilling: Are small fibre balls appearing on the surface?
• Seam strength: Are seams strong enough for normal use?
• Seam slippage: Are yarns slipping near the seam?
• Zipper movement: Does the zipper still move freely?
• Button attachment: Are buttons securely attached?
• Colour change: Has the garment faded after washing?
• Staining: Has colour transferred to other parts or adjacent fabrics?

Practical note for merchandisers:
GPT is not only a laboratory formality. It tells whether the customer will receive a garment that remains wearable and presentable after washing.

Visual 2: Key checkpoints in Garment Performance Testing.

How Many Washes are Done in GPT?

The number of washes depends on the buyer’s requirement, product type and market. In many cases, GPT may be done after one wash or after three washes.

A general industry observation is that some buyers require testing after one wash, while others may ask for three washes. The important point is that the washing method should follow the care label and the buyer’s approved test protocol.

For example, if the care label says machine wash at 40°C, the garment should be tested according to that instruction. If the garment is labelled dry clean only, the test route will be different.

What is FPT: Fabric Package / Performance Test?

FPT is performed on fabric before or during the approval stage. It helps decide whether the fabric is technically suitable for making garments. If the fabric itself is weak, unstable or colourfastness is poor, then the finished garment will also carry those risks.

Usually, around 3 metres of fabric may be required for a complete fabric testing package, although the exact requirement depends on the laboratory and buyer protocol.

Common Tests Included in FPT

Test	What it Checks	Why it Matters
Yarn Count	Fineness or coarseness of yarn used in the fabric	Helps confirm whether the fabric matches the approved specification
Construction	Ends per inch and picks per inch, or loop structure in knits	Affects weight, strength, cover, handle and appearance
GSM	Grams per square metre	Indicates fabric weight and helps check consistency
Fibre Composition	Actual fibre content such as cotton, polyester, viscose, silk, wool etc.	Important for labelling, costing, performance and legal compliance
Tensile Strength	Resistance of fabric to breaking under pulling force	Important for durability and end-use performance
Tear Strength	Resistance to continuation of a tear	Important for garments exposed to stress, abrasion or snagging
Colourfastness to Washing	Colour change and staining during washing	Prevents customer complaints related to bleeding and fading
Colourfastness to Rubbing	Colour transfer during dry and wet rubbing	Important for dark colours, denim, prints and contrast garments
Colourfastness to Perspiration	Effect of acidic and alkaline perspiration on colour	Important for garments worn close to the body
Colourfastness to Water	Colour bleeding or staining when fabric is exposed to water	Important for wet handling, washing and rainy conditions
Shrinkage	Dimensional change after washing or processing	Critical for garment fit and size stability

FPT vs GPT: The Main Difference

Point	FPT	GPT
Full Form	Fabric Package / Performance Test	Garment Package / Performance Test
Stage	Before or during fabric approval	After garment is made
Sample	Fabric length, often around 3 metres depending on lab requirement	Finished garments, usually multiple identical pieces
Main Focus	Fabric properties	Finished garment behaviour
Typical Tests	GSM, construction, fibre content, strength, colourfastness, shrinkage	Shrinkage, appearance, seam strength, seam slippage, button pull, zipper movement
Purpose	To approve fabric for production	To approve garment performance before shipment

Visual 3: FPT versus GPT — fabric approval compared with garment approval.

Why FPT Alone is Not Enough

A fabric may pass all fabric tests and still create a problem in garment form. This happens because garment performance depends not only on fabric, but also on pattern, sewing thread, seam type, fusing, trims, washing method and finishing.

For example, a fabric may have acceptable shrinkage as a flat fabric, but the finished garment may still twist, pucker or lose shape after washing. This is why GPT is necessary even after FPT approval.

Why GPT Alone is Also Not Enough

If only GPT is done, the problem may be identified too late. By the time the garment is ready, cutting, stitching and finishing costs have already been incurred. If the garment fails at this stage, the loss is much higher.

FPT helps catch fabric-related risks early. GPT confirms whether the garment as a complete product is acceptable.

Best practice:
FPT should be used as an early warning system. GPT should be used as the final confirmation of product performance.

Common Mistakes in Understanding FPT and GPT

• Mistake 1: Thinking that FPT and GPT are the same. They are related, but not the same.
• Mistake 2: Doing GPT only for export orders. Domestic customers also wash and use garments.
• Mistake 3: Ignoring care label conditions during testing.
• Mistake 4: Treating lab testing as paperwork instead of risk control.
• Mistake 5: Not comparing the tested garment with the original unwashed garment.
• Mistake 6: Forgetting trims such as buttons, zippers, fusing and elastic.

Practical Checklist for Merchandisers

Before approving fabric or garments, a merchandiser should ask:

• Has the fabric test report been received and reviewed?
• Is the fabric construction matching the approved specification?
• Is the GSM within tolerance?
• Is fibre composition matching the claim?
• Are colourfastness results acceptable for the garment end use?
• Is shrinkage within buyer tolerance?
• Has the garment been washed according to the care label?
• Is the garment appearance acceptable after wash?
• Are seams, buttons, zippers and trims performing properly?
• Has the report been approved before bulk shipment?

Conclusion

FPT and GPT are two important testing stages in apparel quality control. FPT checks the fabric before it becomes a garment. GPT checks the finished garment after washing and use simulation. Together, they help reduce production risk, customer complaints and product failure.

For a merchandiser, buyer or quality professional, the key lesson is simple: do not look at testing as a formality. Testing is a way of predicting customer experience before the customer actually uses the product.

Research Findings Related to FPT and GPT

The terms FPT and GPT are commonly used in the apparel industry, but research papers usually discuss the individual performance areas covered under these tests, such as shrinkage, dimensional stability, seam strength, colourfastness, pilling, tensile strength and garment durability.

The following research findings help us understand why Fabric Performance Testing and Garment Performance Testing are important in practical apparel quality control.

Research Area / Article	One Important Finding	Relevance to FPT / GPT
Physical garment durability Guo et al., “A framework for measuring physical garment durability”	Garment durability is difficult to measure through one simple test because real-life garment use involves washing, wearing, rubbing, stretching and repeated handling.	This supports the need for GPT, because the finished garment should be tested as a complete product, not only as a fabric sample.
Garment failure causes Cooper et al., “Garment failure causes and solutions”	Common reasons for garment failure include pilling and colour fading, both of which affect the customer’s perception of quality.	This supports including appearance change, pilling and colour change checks in GPT, and colourfastness checks in FPT.
Seam performance of knitted fabrics Bansal, Sikka and Choudhary, “Seam performance of knitted fabrics based on seam strength and seam efficiency”	Seam strength depends on fabric type, seam angle, needle size and construction. Cotton and cotton/lycra knitted fabrics showed lower seam strength than polyester/cotton fabrics.	This is directly relevant to GPT, because a garment may fail at the seam even when the fabric itself appears acceptable.
Dimensional stability after domestic washing Longurova et al., “The effect of fabric structure parameters on dimensional stability after domestic washing”	In 100% cotton woven fabrics, shrinkage occurred after domestic washing, and shrinkage was influenced by fabric structure, cover factor and weave factor.	This is relevant to both FPT and GPT. FPT helps predict fabric shrinkage, while GPT confirms whether the finished garment still maintains fit after washing.
Seam strength prediction in denim jeans Manzoor et al., “Machine learning prediction model for seam strength of five-pocket denim jeans”	Seam strength in denim jeans was strongly influenced by thread count, stitch density, fabric weight and seam type.	This supports GPT because garment durability depends not only on fabric, but also on stitching parameters and seam construction.

Key learning from research:
FPT should not be treated as only GSM, fibre content and construction testing. It should also help predict shrinkage, colourfastness, strength and fabric stability. GPT goes one step further by checking whether the complete garment system — fabric, seam, thread, trims and washing — will perform satisfactorily for the customer.

General Disclaimer

This article is intended for educational and general textile understanding only. Testing requirements, sample size, wash cycles, acceptance criteria and test methods may vary by buyer, product category, country, laboratory and applicable standards. For commercial approval, always refer to the latest buyer manual, applicable ISO/AATCC/ASTM/BIS standards and accredited laboratory reports.