Saturday, 15 August 2015

Notes on Procion Printing- Part 1: Meaning, Types and Printing Paste Preparation



Procion Reactive Dyes in Textile Printing

Part 1: Meaning, Types and Printing Paste Preparation

Reactive dyes occupy a very important place in textile printing, especially for cellulosic fibres such as cotton and viscose. Among them, Procion reactive dyes are well known because they can produce bright shades with good washing and light fastness.

For a textile student, Procion dyes are also interesting because they connect three things together:

dye chemistry, fabric behaviour, and printing technique.

What Are Procion Reactive Dyes?

Procion dyes are a class of reactive dyes. They are called reactive because they do not merely deposit colour on the fibre surface. Instead, they react with the cellulose fibre and form a chemical bond.

This is the key idea.

In many dyes, the colour may remain attached to the fibre through physical attraction or weak forces. But in reactive dyes, the dye molecule chemically combines with the fibre. Because of this, the print becomes more durable.

In simple words:
Procion dyes become chemically linked with cotton or viscose fibres.

This chemical bonding is the reason why Procion dyes generally show good fastness properties.




Why Are Procion Dyes Suitable for Cotton and Viscose?

Cotton and viscose are both cellulosic fibres. Their structure contains hydroxyl groups, which can react with reactive dyes under suitable alkaline conditions.

That is why Procion dyes are mainly used for printing fabrics such as:

  • Cotton
  • Viscose rayon
  • Other cellulosic fabrics

When the right amount of alkali, moisture, temperature and time are provided, the dye reacts with the fibre and becomes fixed.

Important Advantages of Procion Dyes

1. Good Washing Fastness

Since the dye forms a chemical bond with the fibre, the printed colour can withstand washing better than many non-reactive dye systems.

2. Good Light Fastness

Procion dyes also give reasonably good resistance to light, depending on the shade and dye selection.

3. Bright Shades

Reactive dyes are known for producing clear and bright shades. This makes them suitable for printed dress materials, sarees, furnishings and many other cotton-based products.

4. Wide Shade Range

Different Procion dyes can be combined to obtain a wide variety of colours and tones.

Classification of Procion Dyes

Procion dyes can be broadly divided into three classes:

  1. Procion-H
  2. Procion-Supra
  3. Procion-M

The main difference between them is their reactivity.

Reactivity means how quickly and easily the dye reacts with the fibre.

1. Procion-H Dyes

Procion-H dyes are the least reactive among the three groups.

Because they are less reactive, the printing paste prepared with them remains stable for a longer time. This is useful in textile printing because printing paste may have to remain usable during production.

However, because Procion-H dyes are less reactive, they need proper fixation conditions. They are mainly suitable where fixation is done by the steaming process.

Practical Understanding

Procion-H dyes are slow-reacting but stable.

So, they are useful when:

  • The printing paste needs good stability
  • Steaming facility is available
  • Longer fixation conditions can be provided

2. Procion-Supra Dyes

Procion-Supra dyes are more reactive than Procion-H dyes.

They give good washing fastness and are useful where somewhat higher reactivity is needed.

Procion-Supra dyes can also be used along with Procion-H dyes in many cases.

Practical Understanding

Procion-Supra dyes are a middle category.

They are more reactive than Procion-H, but they still offer reasonable process stability.

3. Procion-M Dyes

Procion-M dyes are highly reactive.

Because of their high reactivity, they are widely used in textile printing. They can be used not only in steaming processes but also in certain methods where steaming is not used.

They are also suitable for resist-style printing.

However, there is one important caution.

Because Procion-M dyes are highly reactive, their printing paste does not remain stable for a long time. Therefore, Procion-M paste should be prepared only in the quantity required for immediate use.

Practical Understanding

Procion-M dyes are fast-reacting dyes.

They are useful when:

  • Quick fixation is required
  • High reactivity is desired
  • The paste is going to be used soon after preparation

Difference Between Procion-H, Procion-Supra and Procion-M

Dye Type Reactivity Paste Stability Main Use
Procion-H Low High Mainly steaming process
Procion-Supra Medium Good Printing where better reactivity and fastness are required
Procion-M High Low Quick fixation, resist style, wider process use
A simple way to remember:

Procion-H is stable but slow.
Procion-Supra is intermediate.
Procion-M is highly reactive but less stable in paste.

Can Different Procion Dyes Be Mixed?

Most Procion dyes are compatible with one another and can be used to produce many shades.

However, one practical point is important:

Procion-H and Procion-M should not normally be used together.

This is because their reactivity levels are quite different. One reacts slowly, while the other reacts quickly. This difference may create problems in shade development and fixation.

On the other hand:

Procion-Supra and Procion-H can be used together.

Thickener Used for Procion Dye Printing

In textile printing, the dye cannot be applied like a simple liquid. It has to be converted into a paste so that it remains on the printed area and does not spread uncontrollably.

For this purpose, a thickener is used.

For Procion reactive dyes, the commonly used thickener is:

Sodium Alginate

Sodium alginate is preferred because it is suitable for reactive dye printing. It helps create a smooth printing paste and does not interfere seriously with the dye-fibre reaction.

A good thickener should:

  • Give proper viscosity
  • Allow sharp print outlines
  • Hold the dye on the fabric surface
  • Wash out after fixation
  • Not react negatively with the dye

This is why sodium alginate is generally used for Procion dyes.

Basic Printing Paste for Procion Dyes

A printing paste for Procion dyes generally contains:

  • Procion dye
  • Urea
  • Water
  • Sodium alginate thickener
  • Resist salt
  • Alkali

Each ingredient has a specific role.

Role of Each Ingredient

1. Procion Dye

This is the colouring matter. It reacts with the cellulosic fibre and gives the desired shade.

2. Urea

Urea helps in dissolving the dye and retaining moisture during fixation. Moisture is important because the dye-fibre reaction needs suitable conditions.

For cotton fabrics, urea is generally used in the range of:

50 to 100 parts

For viscose fabrics, it is generally used in the range of:

100 to 200 parts

The exact amount depends on the process and steaming conditions.

3. Water

Water dissolves the dye, urea and alkali and helps in preparing a workable paste.

4. Sodium Alginate

Sodium alginate acts as the thickener. It gives body to the printing paste and helps produce clean printed designs.

5. Resist Salt

Resist salt helps prevent unwanted effects during printing, especially in roller printing and discharge-related situations. It also helps control unwanted reduction or discharge effects.

6. Alkali

Alkali is essential for the reaction between Procion dye and cellulose fibre.

Without alkali, the dye may remain only deposited on the fabric and may not properly react with the fibre.

Common alkalis include:

  • Sodium bicarbonate
  • Sodium carbonate

The choice of alkali depends on the dye type and process.

General Recipe for Procion Dye Printing

A stock thickening paste is first prepared, generally using sodium alginate. The required dye is then added and mixed thoroughly. A high-speed stirrer is used so that the ingredients are properly dispersed.

Ingredient Stock Paste Reduction Paste
Procion dye 50 parts
Urea 50–200 parts 50–200 parts
Water 490–240 parts 540–290 parts
Sodium alginate thickener 350 parts 350 parts
Resist salt 10 parts 10 parts
Alkali: sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate 25 parts or 15 parts 15 parts
Total 1000 parts 1000 parts

Method of Preparing the Printing Paste

One common method is as follows:

  1. Dissolve urea in warm water.
  2. Pour this solution onto the dye powder.
  3. Mix properly so that the dye dissolves.
  4. Add this dye solution to the sodium alginate thickening paste.
  5. Mix thoroughly with a high-speed stirrer.
  6. Add the required alkali after dissolving it in water.
  7. Use the paste for printing.

The paste should be smooth, uniform and free from lumps.

Important Practical Point: Paste Stability

Paste stability is very important in printing.

The paste of Procion-H and Procion-Supra dyes can remain usable for a longer time, up to about 28 days.

But Procion-M paste is not stable for long because the dye is highly reactive.

Therefore:
Prepare Procion-M paste only as much as required for immediate printing.

This is a very practical point in production. If highly reactive dye paste is stored for too long, the dye may lose its effectiveness, and the print quality may suffer.

Practical Summary

Procion dyes are reactive dyes used mainly for printing cotton and viscose fabrics. They form a chemical bond with cellulose fibre and give good washing and light fastness.

The three main types are:

  • Procion-H: least reactive, more stable, suitable for steaming
  • Procion-Supra: moderately reactive, good fastness
  • Procion-M: highly reactive, less stable, useful for quick fixation

Sodium alginate is commonly used as the thickener. Urea, alkali, resist salt and water are important ingredients in the printing paste.

The most important technical point is that reactivity and paste stability are connected. A highly reactive dye like Procion-M works quickly but has lower paste stability. A less reactive dye like Procion-H is slower but more stable.

Knowledge Nugget

In reactive dye printing, alkali is not just an additive. It is the chemical trigger that allows the dye to react with cellulose.

Without alkali, the dye may colour the fabric, but it will not be properly fixed.

Common Mistake

A common mistake is to treat all Procion dyes as if they behave the same way.

They do not.

Procion-H, Procion-Supra and Procion-M differ in reactivity, paste stability and suitable fixation method. Understanding this difference is essential for successful printing.

Reflection Question

Why should Procion-M printing paste be prepared only when required, while Procion-H paste can remain usable for a longer time?

The answer lies in one word:

Reactivity.

Disclaimer and Safety Note: This article is intended for educational and informational purposes only. The recipes, chemical names, quantities, temperatures and process conditions mentioned here are provided to explain the principles of Procion reactive dye printing and should not be treated as direct instructions for unsupervised practical use. Textile printing involves the use of dyes, alkalis, salts, thickeners and other auxiliary chemicals, which should be handled only with proper knowledge, suitable safety precautions and appropriate supervision. Before using any chemical, always refer to the latest supplier technical data sheet, safety data sheet and applicable local regulations. Use appropriate personal protective equipment, ensure good ventilation, safe storage, careful measurement, spill control and responsible disposal of chemical residues and wastewater. The author and publisher do not accept responsibility for any loss, damage, injury or environmental harm arising from the direct or indirect use of the information given in this article, and readers are advised to consult trained textile processing professionals before attempting any laboratory or industrial application.

Continued in Part-2

Wednesday, 12 August 2015

Is Art Silk a type of Silk ?



This term made popular by catalog-centric websites is a misnomer. Art Silk in the technical circles, is a synonym for rayon.

However, now art silk is a euphemism for the articles made in polyester, nylon or acrylic.It is also known as polysilk.

One can find out the difference between the real silk, rayon and the "art silk" ( nylon, polyester, and acrylic) by burning a small yarn from the fabric and identifying the bead and smell.

See Also

Fiber Identification of Man-made fibres

Fiber Identification of Natural Fibers



Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Weaving Technique of Tangail Sarees



The following board describes the amazing technique of producing Tangail Sarees.


Source

Buy my books at Amazon.com

What is the difference between Faux Georgette and Georgette



Faux georgette is a nice way of saying that a fabric is made of polyester or nylon Georgette.

This term is used very frequently in e-commerce, where customers are normally get offended by the term "polyester" and marketers don't want to offend them.

"Faux"- as described by Google ( Search for the word "faux") means artificial or made in imitation.

Taking the above definition into account the word "faux" is more misleading as the Georgette is genuine.

In this sense calling a fabric faux Georgette, or faux Crepe or faux Chiffon is a faux pas in technical terms.

Conclusion: If you find "faux" written before a fabric, assume that it is synthetic ( polyester or nylon).

See Also:

Difference Among Chiffon, Crepe, Georgette

What is 8 Kg Georgette



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