Textile Printing Methods: Roller, Screen, Rotary Screen and Heat Transfer Printing
Printing has often been described as dyeing in a localized, patterned design.
In dyeing, colour is usually applied uniformly to the whole fabric, yarn, fibre, or garment.
In printing, the colour is applied only to selected areas of the fabric to create motifs,
repeats, borders, buttas, stripes, florals, paisleys, checks, or other decorative effects.
Textile printing uses many of the same dyes or pigments that are used in textile dyeing.
The same principles of dye selection, fibre affinity, colour fastness, and shade performance
apply to printing as they do to dyeing.
Printing and Dyeing: What Is the Difference?
In dyeing, dyes or pigments are generally used in a water bath solution. The textile material
is immersed in the dye bath so that the colour can penetrate the fibre, yarn, or fabric.
In printing, however, the colour must remain exactly where the design requires it. Therefore,
the dyes or pigments are thickened with gums or starches so that the print does not spread,
wick, or flow outside the design area. This thickened colour mixture is called
print paste.
The print paste is generally thick, almost like heavy buttermilk. This thickness helps the
design remain sharp and prevents bleeding of the printed pattern.
Why All Dyes Cannot Be Used for Printing
Although printing and dyeing use similar colouring substances, not every dye used for dyeing
is suitable for printing. A dye may fail in printing because of several reasons.
Some dyes do not dissolve properly in the print paste. Some give low colour yield when printed.
Others may not remain stable in the thickened paste. If the dye is not stable, the shade may
change, weaken, or become uneven during printing, drying, steaming, or curing.
Therefore, a successful printing dye must not only have affinity for the fibre, but must also
perform well inside a printing paste.
Methods of Textile Printing
There are several methods used for printing textiles. Among them, two have been of major
commercial importance: roller printing and screen printing.
A third method, heat transfer printing, is also important, though more limited
in its application.
Other traditional or less widely used printing methods include block printing
and batik printing. These methods are very important from a craft, design,
and cultural point of view, although they are not used as widely in large-scale commercial
textile production.
The main printing methods discussed here are:
- Roller printing
- Hand screen printing
- Automatic screen printing or flat bed printing
- Rotary screen printing
- Heat transfer printing
1. Roller Printing
Roller printing is one of the oldest and most important machine printing methods. It may be
compared to newspaper printing because the design is transferred through engraved rollers.
It is a high-speed process and can produce more than 6000 yards of printed fabric per hour.
For this reason, it is also known as machine printing.
In roller printing, the design is engraved on copper rollers, also called copper engraved
cylinders. These roller engravings must match the creative sketch prepared by the textile
designer. A separate engraved cylinder is required for each colour in the print.
For example, if a fabric has a four-colour design, four separate engraved rollers are required.
The size of the engraved cylinder depends on the printing machine and the design repeat.
How Roller Prints Are Made
In roller printing, the engraved copper roller rotates and comes into contact with a colour
furnisher. The colour furnisher works somewhat like a paint roller used in house painting.
It picks up print paste from the colour box and transfers it to the surface of the engraved
copper roller.
The entire surface of the roller becomes covered with print paste. Then the roller comes into
contact with a doctor blade. This steel blade works like a squeegee. It scrapes
off the print paste from the smooth surface of the roller but leaves the paste inside the
engraved portions.
The fabric is then guided between the cylinder roller and the engraved copper roller. Pressure
at the point of contact transfers the print paste from the engraved area onto the cloth. In this
way, the pattern is printed on the fabric.
As the engraved roller continues to rotate, it also comes into contact with a
lint doctor. This blade removes any lint that may have been picked up from the
fabric being printed.
If additional colours are required, the same process is repeated with additional engraved rollers,
colour boxes, doctor blades, and related mechanisms. The fabric usually makes only one pass
through the roller printing machine. The colours do not usually become smudged because the
pressure of the roller squeezes the print paste into the fabric and the surface colour dries quickly.
After printing, the fabric is immediately dried so that it can be handled without smudging.
If dyes are used, the fabric is generally steamed so that heat and moisture help to set the colour.
If pigments are used, the fabric may be cured in a dry heat oven at temperatures up to about
400°F.
What Is Back Grey?
In roller printing, a fabric called back grey moves through the printing machine
along with and behind the fabric being printed. Its function is to absorb excess print paste that
may strike through the printed fabric and stain the cylinder roller cover.
The back grey is washed and reused again and again. Over time, it develops a dull grey appearance,
which gives it the name “back grey.”
Advantages of Roller Printing
Roller printing is best suited for long production runs of the same pattern. It is especially useful
for fine-line patterns and paisley prints. It can produce half-tones and fall-on effects.
A half-tone is a gradual shading from light to dark in the same colour. A
fall-on effect occurs when two colours overlap and produce a third colour. This
makes it possible to achieve a three-colour appearance with two rollers or two screens.
Roller printing can be used successfully on woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics may also be printed,
but they require special handling.
Limitations of Roller Printing
Roller printing is not economical for short production runs because engraving the rollers is
expensive. Pattern changeovers take time, and production delays may occur when new patterns
have to be prepared.
Another limitation is repeat size. The pattern repeat is limited by the machine and cylinder size.
In many cases, the repeat is limited to about 16 inches for apparel patterns and
about 22 inches for home furnishing fabrics.
2. Screen Printing
Screen printing is a method in which print paste is forced through a closely meshed screen onto
the fabric. The screen is mounted in a wooden or metal frame and placed in contact with the fabric.
The design is created by blocking certain portions of the screen. The blocked areas do not allow
print paste to pass through. The open areas allow the print paste to pass and form the printed design.
The paste is pushed through the screen by a squeegee, which is a rubber-edged
implement used for spreading or forcing liquid-like material across a surface.
There are three important methods of screen printing:
- Hand screen printing
- Automatic screen printing or flat bed printing
- Rotary screen printing
Although these methods differ in machinery and speed, the basic principle remains the same:
the design is created by allowing print paste to pass only through selected open areas of the screen.
3. Hand Screen Printing
Hand screen printing is carried out commercially on long printing tables, sometimes up to
60 yards in length. The fabric is spread smoothly on the table, whose surface is
first coated with a light tack adhesive. This helps hold the fabric in place during printing.
The print operators move the screen frames by hand along the length of the table. The fabric is
printed one frame at a time until the complete length is printed.
Each screen frame carries one colour of the design. Therefore, a three-colour print requires
three separate screen frames and three separate applications on the fabric.
The rate of production in hand screen printing is around 50 to 90 yards per hour.
Advantages of Hand Screen Printing
Hand screen printing is best suited for low yardage samples, exclusive designs, and limited
quantity production. It is useful when the design is special, experimental, or not required in
very large quantities.
Large repeat sizes, up to about 120 inches, are possible. Wet-on-dry print effects
can also be produced.
Hand screen printing gives better colour definition than roller printing because it allows a
heavier lay-on of colour. It is adaptable to woven and knitted constructions. Screens can be
prepared quickly, and pattern changeover is relatively rapid.
It also allows printing of cut garment parts and small items such as towels, scarves, panels,
and accessories.
Limitations of Hand Screen Printing
Hand screen printing is slow compared to machine printing. It is uneconomical for large
production yardage.
It is also not suitable for half-tone designs, fine-line paisley prints, and lengthwise stripe designs.
Since it depends heavily on manual handling, skill and accuracy are very important.
4. Automatic Screen Printing or Flat Bed Printing
Automatic screen printing, also called flat bed printing, follows the same principle
as hand screen printing, but the process is automated.
Instead of spreading the fabric on a long table and moving the screens manually, the fabric moves
on a wide rubberized belt. The fabric moves to the screen, stops for the automatic squeegee action,
and then moves again to the next screen.
This makes flat bed printing an intermittent process, because the fabric stops and starts during printing.
The production rate of automatic screen printing is about 500 yards per hour.
It is mainly used for printing whole rolls of fabric.
Advantages of Automatic Screen Printing
Automatic flat bed printing allows large repeat sizes, up to about 240 inches.
It gives better colour definition than roller printing and is equal to hand screen printing in colour clarity.
It is adaptable to woven and knitted fabrics. Design changeover is relatively rapid, and it gives
very good machine registration.
This method is useful where good quality screen printing is required in roll form, but production
needs to be faster than hand screen printing.
Limitations of Automatic Screen Printing
The cost of screen preparation and special mountings is higher than hand screen printing. It is
not suitable for very low yardage production.
Half-tone designs and fine-line paisley prints are not possible. Lengthwise stripes are also difficult
or not possible in this method.
5. Rotary Screen Printing
Rotary screen printing is different from hand screen and flat bed screen printing in several important
ways. Unlike flat bed printing, rotary screen printing is continuous. In this respect, it is closer
to roller printing.
In rotary screen printing, the fabric moves on a wide rubber belt under rotating cylindrical screens.
These screens are seamless and perforated and may be made of metal or plastic.
Rotary screen printing is the fastest form of screen printing. It can produce around
2500 to more than 3500 yards per hour.
The largest rotary screens have a circumference of about 40 inches, so the maximum
pattern repeat is usually about 40 inches.
Advantages of Rotary Screen Printing
Rotary screen printing allows repeat sizes over 40 inches, which are larger than many roller printing
repeats but smaller than flat screen repeats.
Lengthwise stripe effects and fall-on designs are possible. It is adaptable to woven and knitted fabrics.
Rotary screen prints generally have cleaner and brighter colours than roller prints. They also give
excellent colour definition, although not as much as flat screen printing.
Design changeover is faster than roller printing. Rotary printing is efficient for long runs as well
as moderately small runs of around 1000 yards.
Limitations of Rotary Screen Printing
Fine-line paisley prints are not possible. Half-tone designs are not as effective as in roller printing.
Another limitation is that rotary screens do not last as long as engraved rollers. Therefore, screen life
becomes an important production consideration.
6. Heat Transfer Printing
Heat transfer printing is also known as thermal transfer printing.
In this method, the design is first printed on paper using printing inks containing
disperse dyes. This printed paper is known as transfer paper.
The paper is stored until the textile printer or converter is ready to transfer the design onto fabric.
When the fabric is to be printed, the transfer paper and fabric are brought together face to face
and passed through a heat transfer printing machine. The machine applies heat, usually around
400°F.
At this high temperature, the disperse dye on the printed paper sublimates and transfers onto the fabric.
The process is somewhat similar to decal transfer.
Heat transfer printing is relatively simple and does not require the same level of expertise as roller
printing or rotary screen printing.
Why Disperse Dyes Are Used in Heat Transfer Printing
Disperse dyes are used because they can sublime under heat. Sublimation means the dye changes into
vapour and transfers from the paper to the textile material.
Since disperse dyes have affinity for certain synthetic fibres, heat transfer printing is limited to fibres
such as acetate, acrylics, polyamides such as nylon, and polyester.
Advantages of Heat Transfer Printing
Heat transfer printing can produce bright, sharp, and clear fine-line designs. It can be used for cut
garment parts and small items.
It is adaptable to both long and short yardage runs. Pattern changeover is rapid. The installation is
relatively simple and requires low investment compared to some conventional printing methods.
Another advantage is that steamers, washers, dryers, and other post-treatment equipment are generally
not required. The actual printing process takes only a few seconds, and heat setting can also be
accomplished during the same process.
Limitations of Heat Transfer Printing
The preparation of transfer paper can create lead-time problems, especially in high-fashion markets
where speed is important.
The method is generally limited to fabrics containing at least 50% man-made fibres.
Cellulosic fibres such as cotton and protein fibres such as wool and silk cannot be printed effectively
by this method.
Another limitation is that it is more suitable for printing over pastel shades or prepared production yardage.
It may not completely cover a darker original fabric colour.
Comparison of Textile Printing Methods
| Printing Method |
Best Suited For |
Main Advantages |
Main Limitations |
| Roller Printing |
Long production runs |
High speed, fine-line designs, paisleys, half-tones |
Expensive engraving, limited repeat size, uneconomical for short runs |
| Hand Screen Printing |
Low yardage and exclusive designs |
Large repeats, good colour definition, flexible design change |
Slow production, not suitable for large yardage |
| Automatic Screen / Flat Bed Printing |
Whole rolls of fabric |
Large repeats, good registration, better speed than hand screen |
Not suitable for low yardage, limited for half-tones and fine paisleys |
| Rotary Screen Printing |
Long and moderately small runs |
Continuous printing, bright colours, good speed, adaptable to woven and knitted fabrics |
Fine-line paisleys difficult, screens do not last as long as rollers |
| Heat Transfer Printing |
Synthetic fabrics and small items |
Sharp designs, low investment, quick changeover, no major post-treatment |
Limited to certain fibres, transfer paper lead time, poor coverage on dark grounds |
Printed Fabric Imperfections
Printed fabrics may show certain defects or imperfections. These may arise due to faulty printing procedures,
improper fabric preparation before printing, or defects in the fabric itself.
Since textile printing is similar to dyeing in many respects, many imperfections found in dyed fabrics may also
be found in printed fabrics.
Colour Drag
Colour drag occurs when the colour of the print smears or smudges because it rubs against another object before
it becomes dry.
Colour Splatter
Colour splatter occurs when the print paste is thrown or splattered onto the fabric surface instead of being
placed only on the intended design area.
Fuzzy Pattern
A fuzzy pattern occurs when the edges of the printed design are not sharp and clear. Instead, the edges appear
blurred or fuzzy.
This is often caused by improper singeing or by print paste that has not been thickened properly.
Off-Register
Off-register occurs when printing rolls or screens are not properly aligned. As a result, different parts of
the pattern do not meet correctly.
This defect is also called out-of-fit or out-of-register.
Stop Mark
A stop mark is a colour streak across the fabric. It occurs when the printing machine is stopped during the
printing process and then started again.
Tender Spots
Tender spots are weakened areas in printed fabrics. Sometimes one or more colours in the print may weaken the
fabric in the areas where they are printed.
This is usually due to excessive use of injurious chemicals in the print paste. Tender spots may also be found
in discharged areas of discharge prints.
Practical Note for Textile Students and Merchandisers
The printing method is not selected randomly. It depends on the type of design, repeat size, fabric construction,
fibre content, production quantity, colour sharpness required, cost, and delivery time.
For example, if a mill needs a very long production run with fine paisley designs, roller printing may be suitable.
If the order is small and exclusive, hand screen printing may be preferred. If high-speed screen printing is needed,
rotary screen printing may be more practical. If the fabric is polyester and the design requires sharp colour effects,
heat transfer printing may be considered.
In fashion and saree production, the choice of printing method affects not only cost but also design clarity,
colour depth, repeat size, hand feel, and final market appeal.
Conclusion
Textile printing is the art and science of applying colour in selected areas to create patterns on fabric.
It is closely related to dyeing, but printing requires the use of thickened print paste so that the design
remains sharp and controlled.
Roller printing, screen printing, rotary screen printing, and heat transfer printing each have their own
advantages and limitations. Roller printing is fast and suitable for long runs. Hand screen printing is flexible
and good for exclusive designs. Flat bed printing gives large repeats and good registration. Rotary screen printing
combines speed with screen-print quality. Heat transfer printing is simple and effective for synthetic fibres.
A good understanding of printing methods helps textile students, designers, merchandisers, production teams,
and buyers make better decisions about fabric development, cost, design suitability, and quality control.
| Printing Method |
Important Features and Advantages |
Limitations and Disadvantages |
| Roller |
Best suited for long production runs of same pattern. Best method for fine-line patterns and paisley prints.
Can produce half-tones and fall-on effects. A half-tone is a gradual shading from light to dark in the same colour.
A fall-on is two colours of overlapping pattern, which results in a third colour. It is thus possible to achieve a
three-colour print with two rollers or two screens. Can print woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics require special handling.
|
Machine size of pattern repeat limited to 16-inch maximum for apparel patterns and 22 inches for home furnishings.
Uneconomical for short runs. Long production delays in pattern changeovers. Engraving is expensive.
|
| Hand Screen |
Best method for low yardage samples, exclusive, limited quantity designs. Large repeat sizes, up to 120 inches possible.
Wet-on-dry print effects possible. Better colour definition than roller print due to heavier lay-on of colour.
Adaptable to all woven and knitted constructions. Rapid preparation of screens and rapid pattern changeover possible.
Ability to print cut garment parts and small items, towels, scarves etc.
|
Half-tone designs not possible. Fine-line paisley prints not possible. Lengthwise stripe designs not possible.
Slow production. Uneconomical for large production yardage.
|
Automatic Screen
(Flat Bed) |
Large repeat size, up to 240 inches possible. Better colour definition than roller print; equal to hand screen.
Adaptable to all woven and knitted constructions. Rapid changeover of designs possible. Best machine registration.
|
Cost of screen preparation and special mountings more costly than hand screen. Not adaptable to low yardage.
Half-tone designs not possible. Fine-line paisley prints not possible. Lengthwise stripes not possible.
|
| Rotary Screen |
Over 40-inch repeat size possible; larger than roller printing, but smaller than flat screen methods.
Lengthwise stripe effect possible. Fall-on designs possible. Adaptable to all woven and knitted constructions.
Cleaner and brighter colours than on roller prints. Excellent colour definition, but less than flat screen methods.
Rapid changeover of designs possible. Efficient for long runs and moderately small, 1000 yards runs.
|
Fine-line paisley prints not possible. Half-tone designs not as effective as roller printing.
Screens do not last as long as rollers.
|
| Heat Transfer |
Produce bright, sharp, clear fine-line designs. Ability to print cut garment parts and small items.
Adaptable to long and short yardage runs. Rapid pattern changeover possible. Simple, low-investment installation possible.
Streamers, washers, dryers etc. not required; no post-treatments. Fewest seconds of all print processes.
Heat setting also accomplished.
|
Lead time for paper preparation can cause problems in high-fashion markets. Limited to fabrics having minimum 50%
man-made fibres. Cellulosic and protein fibres cannot be printed. Overprint only on pastels or production yardage.
Else will not completely cover the original cover.
|
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