Nuapatna Ikat Textile Cluster

Nuapatna

This place is known for its Ikat Textiles, specially Sarees. The ikat used is weft Ikat.

When we reached, it was a hot summer day with temperature soaring up to 45 deg C with humidity. But looking at the "cool" weaving, took away some of the heat.

Frame looms are used to weave.

Look at the "bow" used to control the weft, this gives wavy selvedge to the saree. Considered by some as a defect,this is inherent to the manufacture of this saree.

Frame used to tie and dye the weft yarn. The pattern is prepared on the frame then it is transferred to weft spools and then these are used in the loom for weaving. 

The count used is 2/100s or 2/120s for cotton. Both mercerised and non mercerised cotton is used. Silk used is Bangalore (20/22 denier degummed) or Maldah Silk (30/33) denier Mulberry. In Nuapatna Generally Bangalore Silk is used in the warp and Maldah is used in the weft. 

Note the "Comb" used at the selvedge to control the border ends. Note also the absence of warp stop motion. Which means weavers eyes are the only instruments to detect a defect, and it one can only spot a missing end ( Chira) in a 2/100s count cotton only after a few picks have been woven. So expect some missing ends in the warp.

Throughout India, home made dobby attachements are used to create the design. Here is the Nuapatna version.

Notice the lingos falling down at the border.

To create this design below the following steps are done:

1. White fabric is ties for the first time

2. Then it is dyed in the motif colorr. ( Fawn)

3. Then the motif only is tied.

4. Then it is treated with hydro ( Sod. Hydrosulphide) to take away the color from the remaining portion- if needed.

5 Then the background is dyed. 

Generally acid dyes are used for silk and vat dyes for cotton. However, the characteristic "red" of Ikat will bleed as it is dyed in napthol color. For all the bright colors napthol dyes are used, which may bleed. They have also started using the reactive dyes, but is it very rare. 

Do you see the little zig-zag line at the left side in the picture above , this is how the weavers control design, they make sure that this zig-zag line is maintained by pinching a small amount of weft. which is shown as a loop in the wrong side of fabric. So mind you, if you get those loops of yarn at the side of the fabric, these are not defects but effects inherent to the weaving technique. 

This is Nuapatna No. 1, there are many more such societies. Surprisingly each have a different language of products. 

This society has an elaborate stand for checking the sarees against the light. 

Presentation on Fabric Defects

Fabric defects in woven and knitted fabric - hitesh choudhary from Hitesh Choudhary

Fulia Weaving Cluster-2

The Next stop was Nutan Fulia, a government cooperative society. Despite being government, the range and variety of products and the efficiency in their operations, makes it unique it its own way.

Have a look at the beautiful pallu of this Sari above. The pallu is done in Shibori Technique ( the fabric is stitched in patterns then dyed and then the stitches open. Notice how the variability in terms of streaks come ( the black lines) which is a part of this unique process.

This society boasts of modern dye house with reactive and vat dyes. They have chambers but are not operational yet. 

For an artisan cluster, they have a water treatment plant also.

For saris they work with Tussar, Matka, Ghicha, Cotton and Silk. The usual denier for silk is degummed 20/22 and 100s count for cotton. Also use viscose rayon for ornamentation.

Below is the details of the zari used by them. It says per bundle 225 grams containing three reels. 

We had rains in the morning. The evening while coming back looked beautiful. These are pictures clicked from a Restaurant on our way to Kolkata.

Fulia Cluster

We left for Fulia early in the morning. Passed through Barasat, a place I have heard earlier- and not only heard worked intensively in getting the AW-13 deliveries while I was in Pantaloons. Nice to pass the place with no tension of deliveries on my head. 

Fulia is in the district of Nadia. It is famous for its Tant Sari. Tant means handloom. However, it is specifically used for the cotton Jamdani including Tangail, for which the Bengal Handloom is known for. Have a look at this example

Have a special look at the blue "spot" this is a marka used by weavers to mark off the areas from where to start the butis and is an inherent characteristic of this product.

This clusters deals in Matka, Jamdani, Taant, Silk Viscose and Handpainted Garad or Tussar Saris. Handloom Saris are also woven with Jacquard attachment. Have a look at the above and the Jacquard attachment below. 

The sari is woven upside down with no selvedge control mechanism. Thus one can expect to get uneven selvedge. 

Have seen Yarns of 2/100s, 92s, and 100s DHCR ( Double Hank Cross Reel). Incidently Cross reel hank give better dyeing quality.

Vat Dyes are used. Also cold brand porcion colors are also used in this open dye bath. The skeins are left to dry in the sunlight after dyeing.

This Sari is found wound on the cloth roll, leaning against the wall, adding to the overall beauty of the place. 

An area in the house is marked as the yarn store. One can see the packets of dyed skein lying. 

This is the best part. A Maldah mango tree overseas the courtyard, around which all the loomsheds, dyeing storage and yarn unit is located. We also enjoyed a few fully ripen Maldah Mangos. Apart from that we were offered Lassi,Rosogulla and Chhana Jalebi - a completely new delicacy for me. 

A completely absorbing trip to this cluster. Will take you to my next venture in the incoming posts.

One can buy Tant Saris here.