Silk Fabric Terms Explained — Part 5: Indian Silk Terms — Bafta, Kora, Ghicha and Matka
In Part 1, we created a practical map for understanding silk fabric terms.
In Part 2, we discussed silk yarn terms such as raw silk, bivoltine silk, China silk, katan and organzine.
In Part 3, we understood twist-based sheer fabrics such as chiffon and georgette.
In Part 4, we studied the crepe family.
Now we come to a very important part of silk terminology:
Indian silk terms.
This part will explain terms such as bafta, kora cloth, ghicha, ghicha-ghicha fabric, matka and matka fabric.
These terms are important because they do not belong only to textbook textile vocabulary. They also belong to Indian craft, handloom, trade and market vocabulary.
A word like matka is not merely a yarn name.
It carries the story of pierced cocoons, waste silk, hand spinning, rough texture and Indian handloom character.
A word like kora is not merely a fabric name.
It tells us about undegummed silk, gum content and the condition of the yarn.
A word like bafta tells us that Indian fabrics have often used fibre combinations intelligently — silk in warp and cotton in weft.
Central idea: Indian silk terms should be understood as technical words, market words and craft words at the same time.
Why Indian Silk Terms Need Special Attention
Many textile terms used in India are not purely technical.
They are born from:
- local weaving practice,
- handloom traditions,
- raw material availability,
- market usage,
- regional vocabulary,
- and long experience of fabric making.
This is why Indian silk terms often carry more meaning than their short definitions suggest.
For example, if we say matka, the definition may say that it is yarn spun from pierced or waste cocoons.
But practically, the word also suggests:
- irregularity,
- slub-like texture,
- rustic look,
- handloom character,
- heavier feel,
- and earthy appearance.
Similarly, ghicha suggests a yarn drawn by hand from tasar cocoons, but in fabric language it also suggests natural unevenness and a craft-based surface.
So while reading Indian silk terms, we should not ask only:
What is the definition?
We should also ask:
What kind of yarn, handle, texture, craft process and market identity does this word suggest?
1. Bafta
Bafta is an Indian term for a fabric made with silk warp and cotton weft, used as dress material.
This is a very interesting fabric idea.
In bafta, silk is used in the warp direction and cotton is used in the weft direction.
This means the fabric is not fully silk and not fully cotton. It is a silk-cotton combination.
Practical Understanding
Bafta shows how Indian textile traditions often combine beauty with practicality.
Silk in the warp can give:
- lustre,
- strength,
- richness,
- and a silk-like appearance.
Cotton in the weft can give:
- comfort,
- absorbency,
- economy,
- and a more wearable handle.
So bafta is not simply a cheaper substitute for silk. It is a practical construction where two fibres are used intelligently.
Why Silk Warp and Cotton Weft?
In weaving, warp yarns have to withstand more tension and abrasion. Silk, when properly prepared, can give strength and lustre in the length direction.
Cotton in the weft can give comfort and body across the width of the fabric.
This combination may make the fabric suitable for dress material where appearance, comfort and cost all matter.
Bafta in simple words: Bafta is a silk-cotton fabric, traditionally made with silk in the warp and cotton in the weft.
2. Kora Cloth
Kora cloth is a silk fabric mainly made of mulberry silk used in both warp and weft in an undegummed and untwisted condition.
It is used for printed sarees, scarves and printed dress materials.
Kora cloth is classified into two varieties:
- Single kora — where the warp is single ply and the weft is two ply.
- Double kora — where the warp is two ply and the weft is three ply.
Practical Understanding
The key word in kora is undegummed.
Silk naturally contains gum called sericin. When this gum is not removed, the silk remains firmer, stiffer and more wiry compared to fully degummed silk.
So kora cloth has body because the silk is still in a raw or gum-containing condition.
Why Kora Is Useful for Printing
Kora cloth is often used for printed sarees, scarves and dress materials.
There are two practical reasons:
First, the fabric has body because of the gum.
Second, the relatively firm surface can be useful for handling, printing and finishing.
After processing, the fabric may be softened or finished depending on the product requirement.
Single Kora and Double Kora
The classification of kora cloth into single and double varieties is related to the ply structure of warp and weft.
| Variety | Warp | Weft | Practical Meaning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single kora | Single ply | Two ply | Lighter construction |
| Double kora | Two ply | Three ply | Heavier and stronger construction |
This shows that even within one fabric name, construction may vary.
So when someone says “kora”, a merchandiser should still ask:
Is it single kora or double kora?
Kora in simple words: Kora cloth is an undegummed silk fabric, often used for printed sarees, scarves and dress materials.
3. Ghicha
Ghicha is the yarn drawn by hand out of tasar cocoons without twisting, traditionally with the help of an earthen pot.
This definition is very short, but it is full of meaning.
Ghicha is connected with:
- tasar silk,
- hand drawing,
- waste or irregular cocoons,
- absence of twist,
- and traditional yarn-making practice.
Practical Understanding
Ghicha yarn is not like smooth reeled mulberry silk.
It is more irregular.
It has a natural, handmade character.
The yarn may show unevenness, thickness variation and texture.
This irregularity is not necessarily a defect. In ghicha-based fabrics, it is often the main appeal.
Why Ghicha Has a Rustic Character
Since ghicha is drawn by hand and without twist, it does not have the smoothness and uniformity of filature silk.
The result is a yarn that looks more natural and less polished.
When woven into fabric, it creates a textured surface.
This makes ghicha suitable for products where natural, handmade and earthy character is desired.
Ghicha in simple words: Ghicha is a hand-drawn tasar silk yarn with natural irregularity and rustic character.
4. Ghicha-Ghicha Fabric
Ghicha-ghicha fabric is a medium-weight fabric made from tasar waste silk yarn. It is hand woven and used for dress making and furnishing.
This fabric carries forward the character of ghicha yarn.
Because the yarn is irregular and handmade, the fabric also has a textured and natural look.
Practical Understanding
Ghicha-ghicha fabric is usually not smooth, flat or highly lustrous like fine mulberry silk.
It is more:
- textured,
- medium weight,
- rustic,
- earthy,
- handmade-looking,
- and suitable for natural design aesthetics.
It may be used in dress materials, furnishings and products where surface character is important.
Why It Is Suitable for Furnishing
A medium-weight textured silk fabric can work well in furnishing because it gives visual richness and tactile interest.
Unlike very delicate sheer silk fabrics, ghicha-ghicha has more body and presence.
Ghicha-ghicha fabric in simple words: Ghicha-ghicha fabric is a handwoven medium-weight fabric made from tasar waste silk yarn, known for its natural texture.
5. Matka
Matka is the yarn spun by hand appliances out of mulberry pierced and other waste cocoons, traditionally with the help of an earthen pot.
Matka is one of the most important Indian silk terms because it represents a completely different side of silk.
When people think of silk, they often think of smoothness and shine.
Matka reminds us that silk can also be rough, irregular and textured.
Practical Understanding
Matka yarn is made from pierced cocoons and waste cocoons.
A pierced cocoon cannot usually give continuous reeled silk because the filament has been broken.
So instead of reeling a continuous filament, the silk is spun.
This gives the yarn an uneven, slub-like and textured appearance.
Why Matka Is Different from Raw Silk
Raw silk is reeled silk with gum.
Matka is spun silk made from pierced or waste cocoons.
This is a very important difference.
| Feature | Raw Silk | Matka |
|---|---|---|
| Source | Reeled from cocoon filaments | Spun from pierced or waste cocoons |
| Structure | More continuous | More irregular |
| Surface | Firmer, but may still be smoother | Rough, slub-like, textured |
| Character | Raw, gum-containing silk | Rustic spun silk |
| Common use | Various silk fabrics | Handloom, dress material, furnishing |
So matka should not be confused with raw silk.
Both may feel less soft than degummed silk, but their technical origin is different.
Matka in simple words: Matka is a hand-spun silk yarn made from pierced or waste cocoons, giving a rough and textured character.
6. Matka Fabric
Matka fabric is an Indian term for a rough handloom fabric made from yarn spun out of pierced cocoon in the weft and organzine in the warp.
It is used as dress material, furnishing, cushion covers and similar products.
This definition is very useful because it tells us both yarn and fabric construction.
| Direction | Yarn Used | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Warp | Organzine | Strength and stability |
| Weft | Matka yarn | Texture and rustic appearance |
Why Organzine Is Used in Warp
As discussed in Part 2, organzine is a strong silk yarn used mainly in the warp direction.
Warp yarns face tension and abrasion during weaving.
Therefore, organzine gives stability and strength.
Why Matka Is Used in Weft
Matka yarn gives the fabric its rustic and textured appearance.
Since weft yarns are inserted across the fabric and do not face the same level of loom tension as warp yarns, the irregular matka yarn can be used more effectively in weft.
This combination gives matka fabric its character:
- stable warp,
- textured weft,
- handloom look,
- rough surface,
- and natural feel.
Practical Understanding
Matka fabric is valued because it is not perfectly smooth.
Its unevenness gives it personality.
It is often used where designers want a natural, craft-based and less glossy silk look.
It may be suitable for:
- kurtas,
- jackets,
- blouses,
- sarees,
- cushion covers,
- furnishing,
- and lifestyle products.
Matka fabric in simple words: Matka fabric is a rough handloom silk fabric made with strong organzine warp and textured matka weft.
How Bafta, Kora, Ghicha and Matka Differ
These terms are often grouped together because they are Indian silk-related terms. But technically they are quite different.
| Term | Main Category | Key Idea | Practical Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bafta | Silk-cotton fabric | Silk warp and cotton weft | Dress material, practical blend |
| Kora cloth | Undegummed silk fabric | Mulberry silk in raw/undegummed state | Firm, useful for printed sarees/scarves |
| Ghicha | Yarn | Hand-drawn tasar yarn without twist | Rustic, irregular, natural |
| Ghicha-ghicha fabric | Fabric | Tasar waste silk handwoven fabric | Medium weight, textured, furnishing/dress use |
| Matka | Yarn | Hand-spun yarn from pierced/waste cocoons | Rough, slub-like, textured |
| Matka fabric | Fabric | Organzine warp and matka weft | Rough handloom fabric, dress/furnishing use |
This table shows that we should not treat all these terms as fabric names.
Some are yarn terms.
Some are fabric terms.
Some indicate fibre combination.
Some indicate gum condition.
Some indicate waste-silk utilization.
That is why classification is important.
Technical Note: Reeled Silk, Drawn Silk and Spun Silk
To understand these Indian terms better, we should understand three ideas:
1. Reeled Silk
Reeled silk is obtained by unwinding continuous filaments from good cocoons.
It is generally smoother and more uniform.
Examples connected with reeled silk include raw silk, filature silk, katan and organzine.
2. Drawn Silk
Drawn silk, as in ghicha, may be pulled or drawn by hand from cocoons or silk material.
It is less regular than reeled silk and has a more handmade character.
3. Spun Silk
Spun silk is made from broken filaments, pierced cocoons or waste silk.
Matka belongs to this world.
It is not continuous like reeled silk. It is more irregular and textured.
Simple technical flow:
Good cocoon + continuous filament = reeled silk
Hand drawing from tasar material = ghicha-type yarn
Pierced/waste cocoon + spinning = matka-type yarn
This difference explains why ghicha and matka look and feel different from smooth silk.
Practical Note for Buyers and Merchandisers
When buying Indian silk fabrics such as bafta, kora, ghicha or matka, do not rely only on the name.
Ask these questions:
| Question | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Is the fabric pure silk, silk-cotton or silk-waste based? | Helps identify composition and value |
| Is the silk reeled, drawn or spun? | Explains smoothness or irregularity |
| Is the fabric raw, undegummed or degummed? | Affects stiffness, lustre and handle |
| Is the yarn twisted or untwisted? | Affects strength and texture |
| Is organzine used in warp? | Indicates warp stability |
| Is matka or ghicha used in weft? | Explains rustic texture |
| Is it single kora or double kora? | Affects weight and strength |
| What is the intended use? | Dress material, saree, furnishing or accessory |
The same word may mean slightly different things in different markets.
Therefore, the buyer must convert the market word into a technical specification.
Common Confusions
Confusion 1: Matka and Raw Silk Are the Same
They are not the same.
Raw silk is reeled silk with natural gum.
Matka is spun silk made from pierced or waste cocoons.
Both may have body, but their origin and yarn structure are different.
Confusion 2: Kora Means Any White Silk Fabric
Not exactly.
Technically, kora refers to silk fabric in an undegummed and untwisted condition, mainly mulberry silk.
The gum content is important.
Confusion 3: Ghicha and Matka Are the Same
They are related to irregular silk yarns, but they are not identical.
Ghicha is hand-drawn, often from tasar cocoons.
Matka is hand-spun from pierced or waste cocoons, often mulberry.
Confusion 4: Bafta Is Pure Silk
Bafta is not pure silk. It is traditionally made with silk warp and cotton weft.
Confusion 5: Roughness Means Poor Quality
Not always.
In matka and ghicha fabrics, roughness and irregularity may be part of the desired fabric character.
The question is whether the irregularity is intentional, controlled and suitable for the end use.
Knowledge Nugget
Indian silk terms teach us that silk is not always smooth, shiny and delicate.
Silk can also be:
- firm,
- raw,
- rustic,
- textured,
- hand-drawn,
- hand-spun,
- blended,
- and craft-based.
In fact, many Indian silk fabrics are beautiful because they preserve the character of the yarn.
The unevenness is not removed completely.
The gum is not always removed immediately.
The waste cocoon is not wasted.
The hand process is not hidden.
This is the beauty of Indian textile vocabulary.
It does not only describe fabric.
It preserves process.
Quick Recap
| Term | One-line Meaning |
|---|---|
| Bafta | Fabric made with silk warp and cotton weft |
| Kora cloth | Undegummed, untwisted mulberry silk fabric |
| Ghicha | Hand-drawn tasar silk yarn without twisting |
| Ghicha-ghicha fabric | Medium-weight handwoven fabric from tasar waste silk yarn |
| Matka | Hand-spun silk yarn from pierced or waste cocoons |
| Matka fabric | Rough handloom fabric with organzine warp and matka weft |
Main lesson: Indian silk terms connect yarn, process, handloom practice and market identity.
Reflection Questions
- Why is bafta considered a practical silk-cotton construction?
- What does the word undegummed tell us about kora cloth?
- How is ghicha different from smooth reeled silk?
- Why does matka fabric have a rough and textured appearance?
- Why should roughness not always be treated as a defect in Indian silk fabrics?
Final Words
Bafta, kora, ghicha and matka are not just names.
They are windows into Indian textile thinking.
Bafta shows how silk and cotton can be combined for practical use.
Kora shows the importance of gum and raw silk condition.
Ghicha shows the beauty of hand-drawn tasar silk.
Matka shows how pierced and waste cocoons can become valuable textured fabric.
These terms remind us that fabric knowledge is not only found in laboratories and standards.
It is also found in weaving centres, handloom clusters, yarn practices, market language and craft memory.
So when we hear an Indian silk term, we should listen carefully.
The word may be small.
But behind it, there is fibre, yarn, process, touch, tradition and experience.
General Disclaimer
This article is intended for general textile education and practical understanding. Textile terms, fabric names and trade usages may vary across regions, weaving clusters, suppliers and markets. The descriptions given here should be used as a learning guide and not as a substitute for laboratory testing, formal product specifications, buyer-approved standards or supplier technical data sheets. For commercial buying, quality control, fibre declaration or legal compliance, fabric composition, construction, yarn type, finish and performance should be verified through appropriate testing and documentation.
Goyal, P. Silk Fabric Terms Explained — Part 5: Indian Silk Terms — Bafta, Kora, Ghicha and Matka. My Textile Notes. Available at: http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2026/05/silk-fabric-terms-explained-part-5.html
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