Silk Fabric Terms Explained — Part 1: A Practical Map for Understanding Silk Fabrics
Silk is not one fabric.
This is the first important point to understand.
When a customer says “silk”, she may be imagining a smooth, lustrous saree. When a merchandiser says “silk”, he may be thinking of katan, organzine, raw silk, crepe yarn or chiffon twist. When a weaver says “silk”, he may be thinking of warp strength, twist, degumming, gum content, yarn count, reed, pick and finishing.
So the word silk is simple in the market, but quite layered in textile practice.
That is why terms such as chiffon, georgette, crepe, habutai, kora, matka, ghicha, organzine, katan, bafta and scroop should not be memorised only as dictionary meanings. They should be understood as fabric constructions.
This article is the first part of a series on silk fabric terms. In this part, we will not go very deep into each term. Instead, we will create a practical map so that the terms become easier to understand in the coming articles.
Why Silk Fabric Names Become Confusing
Silk terminology becomes confusing because one term may refer to different aspects of the fabric.
For example, crepe may refer to:
- a crinkled fabric surface,
- a highly twisted yarn,
- a type of weave,
- or a family of fabrics such as crepe-de-chine, flat crepe, crepe georgette and crepe-backed satin.
Similarly, kora is often used in the market for an undegummed silk fabric. But technically, it also tells us about the condition of the silk yarn — that the silk still contains its natural gum.
In the same way, organza tells us about transparency and crispness, while organzine is a type of silk yarn used mainly in warp.
The two words sound similar, but they are not the same.
This is where many students and merchandisers get confused.
A silk fabric name may tell us about one or more of the following:
| What the term may indicate | Example |
|---|---|
| Fibre used | Mulberry silk, tasar silk, silk-cotton blend |
| Yarn type | Raw silk, katan, organzine, ghicha, matka |
| Twist level | Chiffon twist, crepe yarn |
| Weave | Plain weave, satin weave, crepe weave |
| Surface appearance | Sheer, crinkled, pebbly, lustrous, stiff |
| Finish or handle | Scroop, crispness, stiffness, gum content |
| Traditional or market name | Bafta, kora, habutai, matka |
Therefore, the best way to understand silk fabric terms is not to memorise them alphabetically.
The better way is to decode them layer by layer.
The Five Layers of Silk Fabric Understanding
A silk fabric can be understood through five important layers:
- Fibre
- Yarn
- Twist
- Fabric construction
- Finish and handle
Let us understand each of these layers.
1. Fibre: What Kind of Silk or Fibre Is Used?
The first question is simple:
What fibre has been used?
The fabric may be made of mulberry silk, tasar silk, raw silk, waste silk, cotton-silk blend or even man-made filament yarns imitating silk.
For example, bafta is traditionally described as a fabric made with silk warp and cotton weft. Here, the fabric name immediately tells us about a blend of two fibres.
This is important from a practical point of view.
A silk-cotton fabric will not behave exactly like a pure silk fabric. It may have a different fall, different handle, different absorbency, different price point and different performance during washing or finishing.
Similarly, fabrics made from waste silk yarns such as matka or ghicha will have a more irregular, textured and handmade character compared to smooth reeled silk fabrics.
So the first layer is always fibre.
2. Yarn: What Type of Silk Yarn Is Used?
The second layer is yarn.
In silk fabrics, the yarn is extremely important because the same silk fibre can give very different fabrics depending on how the yarn is prepared.
Raw Silk
Raw silk is the continuous silk thread reeled from the cocoon before complete removal of sericin. Sericin is the natural gum present in silk.
Because of this gum, raw silk has more body and a slightly firmer handle. It is not as soft as fully degummed silk.
In many fabrics, raw silk is used deliberately because the gum gives strength and character during weaving.
Katan
Katan is twisted filature silk. It is commonly associated with fine silk fabrics and sarees.
The word is important because it tells us that the silk is not just reeled, but twisted. This twisting gives better strength, body and usability in weaving.
Organzine
Organzine is a strong silk yarn generally used in the warp direction.
It is made by twisting single silk threads and then folding two, three or four such threads together. The folded yarn is then twisted in the direction opposite to the single twist.
This opposite twist gives balance and strength.
Since warp yarns have to withstand loom tension, abrasion and repeated movement during weaving, organzine is suitable as warp yarn.
Ghicha and Matka
Ghicha and matka are associated with silk waste, pierced cocoons or cocoons from which continuous reeled silk cannot be obtained easily.
Ghicha yarn is drawn by hand, often from tasar cocoons.
Matka yarn is spun from pierced or waste cocoons, traditionally with simple hand appliances.
Both produce fabrics with an irregular, natural and textured appearance.
This is why matka fabric does not look like smooth filature silk. Its beauty lies in its unevenness.
3. Twist: How Much Twist Has Been Given to the Yarn?
The third layer is twist.
Twist is one of the most important ideas in silk fabrics.
A yarn may be softly twisted, normally twisted or highly twisted. When a yarn is given very high twist, it develops torque. It tries to curl, kink or contract. This behaviour is used deliberately to produce special fabric effects.
This is the basis of fabrics such as chiffon, georgette and crepe.
Chiffon Twist
Chiffon twist is a hard twisted single raw silk thread used for making chiffon and similar fabrics.
The twist may be in the range of about 2,000 to 4,000 twists per metre.
Such high twist gives chiffon its light, sheer and slightly lively character.
Crepe Yarn
Crepe yarn is also a highly twisted yarn. It is used to produce a crinkled, puckered or pebbly surface in the fabric.
Important point: In silk fabrics, twist is not only a yarn property. Twist becomes a fabric surface.
This is a very useful concept.
The twist is inside the yarn, but its effect is visible on the fabric.
When S-twist and Z-twist yarns are arranged in a controlled way, they create balanced or textured effects. This is why terms like S twist, Z twist, crepe yarn, chiffon twist and crepe-de-chine yarn are important in silk terminology.
4. Fabric Construction: How Is the Fabric Made?
The fourth layer is construction.
After understanding the fibre, yarn and twist, we must ask:
How has the fabric been woven?
Many silk fabrics are plain woven, but they still differ because of yarn twist, yarn type, gum content, finishing and density.
Chiffon
Chiffon is a very light, sheer and open fabric made from hard twisted yarns.
Silk chiffon is made from raw silk in both warp and weft directions. Because of its open structure and high twist, it has a delicate, transparent and flowing character.
Georgette
Georgette is also light and sheer, but compared to chiffon it generally has a more grainy or crepe-like surface.
It is usually made from crepe yarns, often with two Z-twisted and two S-twisted yarns arranged in both warp and weft.
This arrangement gives georgette its characteristic texture.
Crepe
Crepe is not just one fabric. It is a family.
A crepe fabric is identified by its crinkled, puckered or pebbly surface. This surface may be created by:
- high twist yarns,
- crepe weave,
- chemical treatment,
- embossing,
- or a combination of these methods.
So, when we say “crepe”, we should immediately ask:
Is the crepe effect coming from yarn, weave, finishing or all of them?
Crepe-de-Chine
Crepe-de-Chine is a lightweight silk fabric made with highly twisted S and Z filament yarns alternating in the weft, along with normally twisted filament yarns.
It has a soft crepe effect, but it is usually smoother than heavy crepe fabrics.
Habutai
Habutai is a soft, lightweight Japanese silk fabric. It is generally plain woven and may be used for linings, blouses and printed fabrics.
It has a smooth, light and supple character.
Tabby
Tabby is a lightweight plain woven silk fabric, usually printed, using untwisted raw silk in warp and weft.
This shows that even a plain weave fabric can have its own identity depending on yarn and finish.
5. Finish and Handle: What Does the Fabric Feel Like?
The fifth layer is finish and handle.
Some silk terms are not only about construction. They are about the final feel of the fabric.
Scroop
Scroop is a special property of finished silk. It gives silk a characteristic crisp feel and a slight crackling or crunching sound when the fabric is crushed by hand.
It may be produced by treating silk with mild acid, such as acetic acid, and drying without washing.
This is a beautiful textile property because it is not only seen. It is felt and heard.
A good textile person does not only look at fabric. He touches it, crushes it, listens to it and observes its recovery.
Organdie, Organdy and Organza
Organdie is a lightweight, translucent fabric with a permanent stiff finish.
Organza is also a lightweight, sheer, plain-woven fabric. It was originally made from raw silk and has a crisp, shimmery and translucent quality.
In the market, the words organdie, organdy and organza are sometimes used loosely. But technically, the important point is that these fabrics are known for transparency and crispness.
A silk fabric can therefore be soft and flowing like chiffon, grainy like georgette, pebbly like crepe, crisp like organza or textured like matka.
This is the language of handle.
Indian Silk Terms: Why They Deserve Special Attention
Some silk terms are especially important in the Indian textile context.
These terms are not merely technical. They are connected with traditional production, handloom practices, local usage and market vocabulary.
Bafta
Bafta is an Indian term for a fabric made with silk warp and cotton weft.
This combination is interesting because it brings together the lustre and strength of silk in the warp with the comfort and economy of cotton in the weft.
Such fabrics show how Indian textiles often balance beauty, cost and function.
Kora Cloth
Kora cloth is a silk fabric mainly made of mulberry silk used in both warp and weft in an undegummed and untwisted condition.
It is used for printed sarees, scarves and dress materials.
The term kora reminds us that gum content is an important part of silk fabric identity.
Matka Fabric
Matka fabric is a rough handloom fabric made from yarn spun out of pierced cocoons, generally with organzine in the warp.
It is used for dress material, furnishing, cushion covers and similar products.
The roughness of matka is not a defect. It is the character of the fabric.
Ghicha-Ghicha Fabric
Ghicha-ghicha fabric is a medium-weight fabric made from tasar waste silk yarn. It is generally hand woven and used for dress making and furnishing.
Both matka and ghicha show that silk is not always smooth and luxurious in the conventional sense. Silk can also be rustic, irregular and earthy.
A Practical Framework for Students and Merchandisers
Whenever you come across a silk fabric name, do not stop at the name.
Ask seven questions.
| Question | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| What fibre is used? | Determines basic nature, cost and comfort |
| Is it reeled silk, spun silk or waste silk? | Affects smoothness, strength and texture |
| Is the silk raw or degummed? | Affects handle, lustre and stiffness |
| What type of yarn is used? | Explains body, surface and performance |
| How much twist is present? | Explains crepe, chiffon and georgette effects |
| What weave is used? | Explains structure and appearance |
| What finish is applied? | Explains feel, sound, stiffness and drape |
This framework is much better than memorising definitions.
Definitions give vocabulary.
Framework gives understanding.
Simple Comparison of Important Silk Terms
| Term | Main Idea | Practical Understanding |
|---|---|---|
| Raw silk | Silk with natural gum | Firmer handle, contains sericin |
| Katan | Twisted filature silk | Stronger, cleaner silk yarn |
| Organzine | Folded and twisted silk yarn | Mainly used as warp yarn |
| Chiffon | Sheer open fabric | Light, transparent, highly twisted yarns |
| Georgette | Sheer crepe fabric | Grainy surface, S and Z twist yarns |
| Crepe | Crinkled fabric family | Effect may come from yarn, weave or finish |
| Habutai | Soft plain silk fabric | Lightweight, smooth, often used for linings |
| Kora | Undegummed silk fabric | Used for printed sarees and scarves |
| Matka | Rough silk fabric | Made from pierced or waste cocoons |
| Ghicha | Hand-drawn silk yarn/fabric | Rustic, textured, often tasar-based |
| Organza | Crisp sheer fabric | Transparent, stiff, dressy |
| Scroop | Crackling silk feel | Produced by finishing treatment |
Common Confusions
Organza and Organzine Are Not the Same
Organza is a fabric.
Organzine is a silk yarn.
Organza is sheer and crisp. Organzine is strong and used mainly in warp.
Chiffon and Georgette Are Not the Same
Both are light and sheer, but chiffon is more delicate and transparent, while georgette has a more grainy crepe surface.
Raw Silk and Matka Are Not the Same
Raw silk is reeled silk with gum.
Matka is spun from pierced or waste cocoons and has a rough, irregular appearance.
Crepe Is Not One Fabric
Crepe is a family of fabrics. The crepe effect may come from yarn twist, weave structure, chemical treatment or embossing.
Technical Note: Why Twist Is So Important in Silk
Silk is a filament fibre. It is naturally long and fine. Because of this, it can be twisted in different ways to create different fabric behaviours.
In low twist yarns, the fabric may become smooth and lustrous.
In high twist yarns, the yarn develops torque. When the fabric is relaxed or finished, this torque produces contraction, crinkle or grain.
That is why chiffon, georgette and crepe are closely connected with twist.
A simple way to remember this:
Low twist gives smoothness.
High twist gives liveliness, crinkle and texture.
Practical Note for Fabric Buyers
When buying silk fabrics, do not rely only on the fabric name.
Ask for:
- fibre composition,
- whether the silk is raw or degummed,
- yarn type,
- twist level if relevant,
- weave,
- weight,
- finish,
- end use,
- and care requirements.
Two fabrics may both be sold as “silk crepe”, but one may be made of pure silk and another may be made of man-made filament yarn. One may have true crepe yarn and another may have only a surface finish.
The name is the starting point, not the final specification.
Practical Note for Students
For students, silk terminology becomes easier if you draw a small flow:
Silk fibre → silk yarn → twist → weave → finish → fabric name
For example:
Raw silk + high twist + open plain weave = chiffon type fabric
Crepe yarn + S/Z arrangement + sheer construction = georgette type fabric
Waste silk yarn + hand spinning + irregular texture = matka or ghicha type fabric
This method makes definitions logical.
How This Series Will Continue
This article is only a map. In the next parts, we will study each group in detail.
Part 2: Silk Yarns
Raw silk, katan, organzine, China silk yarn and bivoltine silk.
Part 3: Chiffon and Georgette
Chiffon, chiffon twist, georgette crepe and crepe/georgette yarn.
Part 4: Crepe Family
Crepe, crepe fabric, crepe-de-chine, flat crepe and crepe-backed satin.
Part 5: Indian Silk Terms
Bafta, kora, ghicha, matka and related Indian silk fabrics.
Part 6: Lightweight Plain Silk Fabrics
Habutai, China silk and tabby.
Part 7: Finish, Feel and Special Effects
Organdie, organza and scroop.
Final Words
Silk terminology looks difficult because the terms come from many sources: technical textile language, weaving practice, finishing practice, trade vocabulary and traditional Indian usage.
But most silk terms can be understood by asking three simple questions:
What yarn is used?
How much twist is given?
What construction and finish create the final fabric?
Once we ask these questions, the names become meaningful.
Chiffon is no longer just a delicate fabric.
Georgette is no longer just a market name.
Crepe is no longer just a crinkled surface.
Matka is no longer just a rough silk.
Each term becomes a clue to the story of the fabric.
That is the real value of textile terminology.
It is not just vocabulary.
It is fabric knowledge.
Goyal, P. Silk Fabric Terms Explained — Part 1: A Practical Map for Understanding Silk Fabrics. My Textile Notes. Available at: http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2026/05/silk-fabric-terms-explained-part-1.html
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