Major and Minor Defects in Garment Production-3

Small Parts
Major Defects
1. Rib Knit set crooked-off, grain holes or runs in knit.
2. Misshaped collars and cuffs
3. Misshaped Tabs
Zippers
Major Defects
1. Zipper more than 3/8" from bottom.
2. Poorly set zipper causing closure problems.
3.Twisting of the zipper caused by the top stitching of the zipper front.
4. Poorly set zipper causing waviness in the front.
Minor Defects
1. Twisting of the zipper front caused by the top stitching of the zipper front.
2. Setting front ( or facing ) too close to the teeth so that the slider cannot properly function.
Button/buttonholes
Major Defects
1. Button and button holes not set in proper positions or out of alignment.
2. Uncut buttonholes/ missing button/ snap fasteners/ buckles/ zippers etc.
3. Not set in proper position
4. Defective or rusted hardware
5. Hardware not according to the specification in size, color, shape.
6. Snap coming off tacks ( Bartacks)
7. Omitted or misplaced or rivet not servicing its intended purpose/improper length.
Minor Defects
1. Too few stitches in the buttonhole.
2. Buttonhole too large or too small for the button.
3. Button not securely sewn.

Care of Silk Fabric

Silk should be dry-cleaned, in most of the cases. Whenever in doubt, dryclean it.

It should not be machine washed at all.

Silk Shrinks when washed in water. It doesn’t itself shrink. It is the way the individual fibers are twisted together than causes the silk to shrink. Highly twisted yarns and loose weave cause shrinking when water releases twisting energy in the fibers.

Water also affects the texture and sheen of the fabric. Thus the firmness and color of the fabric is also affected by water.

When hand washing do it in this way:

Always wash silk in soft water. Add a pinch of Borax or ammonia, if the water is hard.

1. Put the silk in a tub full of lukewarm water and mild soap like Ezee.

2. Rub the silk fabric for a few minutes in the solution and drain.

3. Rinse in clear cool water until all the soap is gone.

4. Fill the tub again and put about a quarter cup of white vinegar.

Vinegar neutralizes any remaining soap and allows it to rinse out completely restoring the fabric’s natural sheen. It also helps preventing any damage from the alkali present in the soap.

5. Give the fabric a final rinse in clear, cool water to restore the vinegar smell.

6. Roll up in a towel to remove moisture then dry flat on a towel. Never wring it.

7. Avoid soaking silk as this may fade the dye.

Silk with doubtful color fastness may be steeped in cold water with a small amount of citric or acetic acid for 1-2 minutes before washing.

Please test this method on a small part of the garment before commencing the full-fledged washing.

Treating Stains

1. Use a capful of hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia added to the wash.

2. For recent perspiration stain dab a tablespoon of ammonia dissolved in half cup of water. Older perspiration can be removed with a vinegar solution. Unfortunately, perspiration stains on silk may not be completely removable.

Pressing

1. Silk should be pressed when damp never when completely dry.

2. Turn the item inside out and iron on the reverse side of the fabric.

3. Use a low setting and don’t use steam as it will leave watermarks.


Storage

1. Keep silk in a cotton pillowcase or other material that can breathe.

2. Avoid plastic which traps moisture and can cause yellowing and mildew

3. Use naphthalene balls to keep the bugs away from silk.

4. Avoid direct contact with wood

5. Wrap zari sarees in cotton cloth to avoid discoloring of zari.

General Care Instructions

1. Keep it away from heat or direct sunlight, it will yellow the fiber.

Cotton Vs. Linen

Comparison of Properties of Cotton and Linen 

Linen is Stronger

Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation.

Linen is Smoother

Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Wrinkles more easily than Cotton

Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily.However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering.

Not As Elastic

Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.

Touch is Different

Cotton is softer, fluffier, and warm to the touch. Linen is smooth, heavy and flowing, and feels cool because it absorbs moisture more readily than cotton.

Cotton is Easier to Rip

Since flax fibres are longer than cotton fibres, cotton is easier to rip.

Pure Linen Vs.Linen/Cotton Blend

Cotton/linen - a little softer, and won't wrinkle as much as pure linen.

For shirts, cotton/linen is great

Pure linen is not bad, necessarily, but it is stiffer and also hard to find in really light weights. The thickness of most pure linen does not lend itself to dress shirtings well.

For jackets and trousers, pure linen is better  

How to Dye Using Indian Natural Dyes

To Dye the Fabric with natural dyes, we proceed as follows:

Tanning

1. Take 20% Harda powder on the weight of material.

2. Make into a smooth paste , add about 10 liters of water.

3. Soak the fabric in this bath for 10-15 minutes.

4. Work it well and dry.

5. After drying remove the extra unfixed harda powder by brushing.

Mordanting

1. Take about 200 gms of alum or 50 gms of Potassium Dichromate or 200 grams of copper sulphate accoding to the color desired.

2. Add 20 liters of water

3. Mix well

4. Enter the Harda Treated material into the dyebath and work well

5. Keep of 10-15 minutes

6. Squeeze and wash once in plain water to remove excess of mineral salt.

Developing

Please see the "Developing of Color" Section of the article "How to Print Using Indian Natural Dyes" .