Complete Free Course in Spinning

Complete free course in spinning!And that too, by none other than the masters of Spinning Technology, Rieter.

 Look no further, Rikipedia, has brought for you the complete course in fiber preparation, spinning preparation and yarn manufacturing.

 Please click this link to access the course.

 I just wish I could use this while I was a student.

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Weaving of Pintuck four line

A very popular fabric is made in the Bijnor cluster where the picks are crammed after every inch or so so as to form distinct cords which in the market is called as pintuck. The fabric has a popularity as a fabric for Indian ethnic garments for mens and ladies.

The technique of weaving uses dobby mechanism on powerloom with four shafts. Two warping beams are used. The upper beam is at lower tension than the lower beam. The upper beam is used to make a shed for the crammed in picks whereas lower beam makes the ground fabric.

The order of drawing in is 1-3-2-4. Shafts Number 1 and 2 ( counted from the front) are used for weaving ground weave whereas 3 and 4 for the pintucking operation.

Here are some pictures. I have also uploaded a video ( some part of it to be seen by looking sideways).

A view of the top warp beam

A view of the bottom warp beam

Dobby and dobby chain

Final Fabric

The two warp beams

                             
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Pyjamas and Khadi- A visit to Khurrampur Village, Bijnor

It was refreshing to see the changed status of women of Khurrampur, using their home stitching machines and making Pyjamas  that are going to be sold in the markets at the Metros and T-2 and T-3 cities of India.

Thanks to the initiative taken by the sourcing arm of an ethnic retail company in India, this is one of the many projects undertaken by this company to improve the status of women in this country, besides providing the sustainable means of livelihood.

Traditionally these women are weaving handspun  khadi in their homes getting some meagre wages from the middlemen on the pitlooms. With the direct intervention their economic situation will undoubtedly improve.

Here are some of the pictures of that village. They have completed their orders of khadi for this season. Hence all the looms are without warps. However, thanks to the pyjama project, women can continue to earn their livelihood by stitching.

Look at the Pit and Small Khadi Loom

A view of the Rainbow in Khurrampur Village

Grandson and Proud Grandfather- Khurrampur

Notice the cord to lift the frames

Wooden Warpers beam

One More Khadi weaving Pitloom

Pitlooms are a part of every family in Khurrampur village

Instrument to Wind Yarn

Government is Doing its Bit

Side View of the Khadi Loom

Craft is everywhere in the village

A view of the open Sky with silver clouds

New Tool for Empowerment- Stitching Machine

Textile Drying

Textile Drying

Drying happens when liquid is vaporized from a product by the application of heat. Heat may be supplied by convection (direct dryers), by conduction (contact or indirect dryers), radiation or  by placing the wet  material in a  microwave or radio frequency electromagnetic field. Over 85 percent of industrial dryers are of the convective type with hot air or direct combustion gases as the drying medium. Over 99 percent of the applications involve removal of water.

This is one of  the most  energy-intensive unit  operations due to the high latent  heat  of vaporization and the inherent inefficiency of using hot air as the (most common) drying medium.

Drying Curve

The figure above is a typical curve, in the initial period, drying rate is high; later, drying rate decrease because of interference of free moisture on the surface of the product.

Type of Dryers

1.       Hot Air Dryer- Stentor

Fabric drying is usually carried out  on either drying cylinders (intermediate drying) or on stenters (final drying). Drying cylinders are basically a series of steam-heated drums over which the fabric passes. It has the drawback of pulling the fabric and effectively reducing its width. For this reason it tends to be used for intermediate drying.  The stenter is a gas fired oven, with the fabric passing through on a chain drive, held in place by either clips or pins. Air is circulated above and below the fabric, before being exhausted to atmosphere. As well as for drying processes, the stenter is used for pulling fabric to width, chemical finishing and heat setting and curing. 

  

Contact Drying- Steam Cylinders/Cans

This is the simplest  and cheapest  mode of  drying woven fabrics. It  is mainly used for intermediate drying rather than final drying (since there is no means of controlling fabric width) and for predrying prior to stentering. Fabric is passed around a series of steam heated cylinders using steam at pressures varying from 35 psi to 65 psi. Cylinders can be used to dry down a wide range of fabrics, but it does give a finish similar to an iron and is therefore unsuitable where a surface effect is present or required

Source (Text and Images)

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