Saturday, 8 September 2012

Weaving of Pintuck four line

A very popular fabric is made in the Bijnor cluster where the picks are crammed after every inch or so so as to form distinct cords which in the market is called as pintuck. The fabric has a popularity as a fabric for Indian ethnic garments for mens and ladies.

The technique of weaving uses dobby mechanism on powerloom with four shafts. Two warping beams are used. The upper beam is at lower tension than the lower beam. The upper beam is used to make a shed for the crammed in picks whereas lower beam makes the ground fabric.

The order of drawing in is 1-3-2-4. Shafts Number 1 and 2 ( counted from the front) are used for weaving ground weave whereas 3 and 4 for the pintucking operation.

Here are some pictures. I have also uploaded a video ( some part of it to be seen by looking sideways).

A view of the top warp beam

A view of the bottom warp beam

Dobby and dobby chain

Final Fabric

The two warp beams
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