16 Things to ensure while Making Industrial Apparel Patterns

The following is a list of 16 things to ensure while making an industrial apparel pattern manually:

1. All the features of the style
   
2. Pattern count ( Number of pattern sections) according to the style 
   
3. Seam allowance based on style
   
4. Type of fixtures required on sewing machine in the manufacturing
   
5. Final drafting measurements based on the shrinkage value ( both warp and weft way) for garmens which are subject to further treatment such as washing or dyeing.
   
6. Grading the pattern based on the size specification.
   
7. Marking the grain lines by an arrow head.
   
8. Provide guide notcher for precision assembly, punch holes for positioning of components and darts.  
   
9. Use of white hard board paper for drafting.
   
10. Use of black color for drawing the original draft line.
    
11. Identify the pattern by its style number, customer's name, date of preparation and mention of its status as "sample"
    
12. On preparation of the sample garment, place all the pattern sections in a paper bag mentioning pattern count, style number, customer's name 
    
13. On receipt of customer's feed back on sample garment effect the changes, if any, by manipulating the draft with Blue color and endorse with signature and date.
    
14. On approval from the production manager, change the status of patterns from "sample" to "production"
    
15. On finalisation of drafting , prepare "ready patterns" on two tone paper for small components meant for cutting section, sewing section and for monitoring purpose.
    
16. In order to prevent curling and chipping of the edges of the pattern section, protect the edges by metal foils.  

Tags: Pattern+making, drafting, garment+manufacturing

Rapid Dyes

The Rapid dyes are stabilized azoic dyestuffs.

 They are applied to the fibers in one operation.

 Bright full colors are obtained with very good fastness properties.

 These are used for printing backgrounds so that the foreground becomes prominent. Hence these are suitable where large areas of ground need to be colored.

 Rapid dyes are mixed with water and boiled with caustic soda and a gum paste. A receipe for rapid dyes is given here.

The shades in rapid dyes are unpredictable since the color that is mixed is different from the final color.

True colors emerge only after the fabric has been printed and washed in a mild sulphuric acid solution.

Also these dyes should be used on the same day.

Some colors such as pure blacks are extremely sensitive to weather. Similarly red colors in rapid is vibrant in summers and mediocre in winter

Care of Rayon Fabrics

Rayon has a low wet strength. Thus the fabric may shrink or stretch when wet. Dry cleaning is recommended. When hand washing, do not wring, use towel to take out moisture and dry flat.

Some dyes used on rayon migrate to the surface, when moisture contacts them, they form a "ring" which are difficult to remove. Thus it makes sense to protect the garment from moisture.

Also when pressing, avoid spitting by steam irons. Press on wrong side or use a press cloth to protect shine or iron imprints.

Rayon fabrics stretches during regular use or drycleaning. This tendency is more common in fitted garments.

In full bias skirts or dresses, uneven hemlines may appear in rayon crepe fabrics in damp climates. This happens because rayon is less stable when wet.

Yellowing in the rayon fabrics may occur due to oxidation of starch present in the fabric. This problem is noticeable in white fabrics. Wet cleaning, accompanied by bleaching will correct the problem. However this treatment can cause additional damage due to shrinkage and limpness.

View a fact sheet on rayon by Joyee A Smith here.

Gad, Reikh and Datta Blocks- Block Printing

While looking for the definition of gad, rekh and datta blocks, I came across the following in website of Indianetzone" The gad, rekh and datta are three types of blocks that are distinguishable by their different styles of carving. The gad is carved in intaglio and is engaged to print large background figures, while rekh and datta are carved in complete relief. Rekh blocks also mark the outlines of the motif and are often used in conjunction with gad blocks, the rekh then forming the fine elaborate lines within the impression made by the gad block. Datta is carved in bold relief and complements the designs of both the gad and rekh blocks. Each of these blocks is used separately or together to produce endless design variations."

Now some terms were not clear to me. For example what is "....carved in intaglio.." means, on searching I found this website of carving patterns giving a beautiful definition and explanation, basically carving intaglio is "Intaglio carving uses the reverse technique to produce the image effect. Here, the main image is the negative areas of the work, instead of the background being carved away it is the design the you remove."

And what is " carved in.. relief" ? For this Wikipedia came to rescue: "Relief carving can be described as "carving pictures in wood". The process of relief carving involves removing wood from a flat wood panel in such a way that an object appears to rise out of the wood"