Sunday, 21 December 2014

Garment Sizing Systems Notes-1

1. As per S. Ashdown, devising a sizing system should seek to answer the following questions:

a. How many and which body dimensions must be used with reference to the garment in consideration. These dimensions are called control dimensions. These are also called primary dimensions. These are those that affect the goodness of fit in a garment and are the dimensions that are measured on a customer to match them with the right sized garment.

b.  What portion of the range to be covered. This is called size range. 

c. How the grouping of these sizing should be done. This is called Size, Inter size interval or size steps. 

d. How many sizes must be produced and how many garments must be produced of each size. This is called size roll. 

e. Which other dimensions are important for garment constructions. These are called secondary dimensions. These are dimensions are dimensions which are used together with primary dimensions to define the body size of one person as a whole.

f. How the garment must be labelled. The aim is of unmistakable identification, this is called size designation. As per the author "...often it is not clear whether the size codes printed on the label refer to the garment or body measurements or to which area of the garments and body in particular.

2. It is also important to know what portion of the population is provided for by the sizing system. This is called accommodation rate. This is between 65% to 85%

3. Choice of Intersize Interval can be understood with the following observations by Koblyakova:

a. One needs to find out the interval of indifference. It is defined as that interval between sizes along some dimensions that doesn't make a difference to the wearer.

b. The interval of indifference is considered to be twice the average tolerance level, which is defined as the largest increment along a dimension that will not be recognized by the wearer. The value of the level of indifference depends upon various factors:

i. Body dimensions with larger absolute values ( such as stature or hip girth) will have larger intervals of indifference than dimensions with smaller absolute values ( such as arm length or neck girth)

ii. Another factor affecting the interval of indifference is the property of the fabric used for garment. Greater flexibility and stretch of the fabric would increase the level of tolerance, therefore increasing the interval of indifference and hence the secondary intersize interval.

iii. As per Koblyakova, the following size step guidelines can be used for topwear:

6cm for Outerwear
10 cm for mens shirt
12 cm for knitwear.

iv. As per ISO, the following size step guidelines can be used- for topwear:

Womens, all size steps without knits- 8cm
Knits- 6cm

4. Secondary Dimensions describe a body in the details necessary to construct a garment that fits a body. 

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