Sunday, 23 March 2014

Technical Specifications of a Polyester Crepe Saree



A typical polyester crepe sari has  the warp and weft of 100% polyester of 75 denier, the TPM of warp and weft is 1800 S&Z alternate. No. of filaments in a yarn of both warp and weft is 70 each. EPI is 132 and PPI is 86. It has a width of  44.5 inches. GSM is 72.

The ideal quality requirements and tolerance are as given below:

1. Denier: + - 5%
2. Twist per meter: +/-5%
3. No. of filaments in yarn +/- 2
4. No. of Threads per inch in warp and weft: +5%/-2.5%
5. Width : +/- 0.5"
6. Length : +/-2 cm
7. GSM: +/-3%

Other Parameters

8. Breaking Strength on 5cm x 20 cm strip, N(KGf): Warp: 240 (24.4), Weft: 190 (19.3)
9. Tear Strength , N (kgf): Warp 20 (2.0), Weft 15 (1.5)
10. Color Fastness Rating due to Light ( Change in Color):5, Washing (Change in Color):4, Staining on adjacent fabric 3-4, Perspiration acidic and alkaline (Change in Color):4, staining on adjacent fabric:4,
Rubbing- Dry-4, Wet-3, Hot Pressing: change in color-4, Staining on adjacent fabric:4
11. Crease Recovery Angle (Degrees)- Dry and Wet (240)- Minimum

BIS has to say the following about this property:

"The ability of a fabric to retain pressed-in creases and to recover from creasing is an important property, especially in case of apparel fabrics. The need for standardizing a method for evaluating crease recovery of
different fabrics has been increasingly felt with the introduction of crease resistant fabrics. When creasing force is removed from the creased fabric, it tends to recover and the creases in the fabric start diminishing at
varying rates. The magnitude of the crease recovery angle as measured according to this standard is taken as an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from creasing.

A crease-free rectangular specimen of prescribed dimensions is folded in half so that the two limbs of the strip touch each other face to face, under a specified load and maintained in the state for a specified period.
After the creasing load is removed, the specimen is allowed to recover for a specified time.
is measured. At the end of recovery period the angle of recovery is measured"

12. Drape %: 60-75%
13. Dimensional Stability to dry heat at 105 +-2 deg C in %, Warp:1%, Weft:1%--> maximum.
In this method a sample of fabric is heated by contact with a plain, hot surface under accurately known conditions and changes in specimen dimensions are measured.

14. Dimensional change on washing percent: Warp:2, Weft:2--> Maximum
16. Pilling resistance ( after 5 hours of test): 4--> Minimum
17. Soil Release Efficiency (percent): 80--> Minimum

BIS has to say the following about this property:

"The soiling of textile fabrics is one of the most difficult problems associated with their use. Cotton and cellulosic fabrics do not pose a severe problem of soiling because of their high moisture regain. Nevertheless, the resin finished cellulosic fabrics and fabrics rich in synthetic fibres pose a severe problem of soiling during their usage. The soiling of fabrics is due to: ( a ) interfacial attraction or Van der Wall forces, ( b ) electrostatic attraction, ( c ) mechanical forces, and ( d ) hydrophobicity of the fibres.

The soil is mainly of two types, namely, dry or particulate soil and oily or greasy soil. The former which includes particles of dust, sand, earth, soot, metallic oxides and carbon with tarry substances may be hydrophilic ( metallic oxides ) or hydrophobic ( carbon ) in nature. The latter includes glycerides, long chain fatty acids and alcohols, lubricating oil, etc, which are mostly hydrophobic.

A specimen of the fabric under test is soiled with synthetic soil, washed under prescribed conditions and dried. Simultaneously, a control specimen and a control washed specimen are taken from the fabric under
test. The soil resistance and soil release efficiency of the fabric is determined using the spectrophotometer."

18. pH value of aqueous extract (Hot Method): 6.0 to 8.0

BIS talks about this property:

"The @H of aqueous extract of the textiles affords a useful index to its processing history. In addition, it is becoming more common to demand that the textile, in its various forms, shall conform to certain limits in respect of its acidity or-alkalinity, often expressed in terms of PH values of aqueous extracts."

Under Hot Method, a flask known as Erlenmeyer flask is washed with distilled or deionized water. One test specimen is taken and added to this 100 ml of distilled or deionized. water.The contents are boiled for one hour under reflux condenser. The contents are cooled to room temperature and pH of aqueous extract is measured.

19. Abrasion Resistance ( 5000 cycles) ( Martindale): 4
20. Limited Flame Spread Index : 2--> Minimum

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