Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters.
In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades.
In Kanjivaram, stiffening is done during polishing as compared to Dharmavaram where softening is done.
Dharmavaram sarees are cheaper than the Kanjivaram, because they use zari in warp as compared to Kanjivaram, that use pure silk.
Here is a list of other differences:
Weaving Technique: The weaving technique used for Kanjivaram sarees is known as "korvai," which involves separately weaving the body and border of the saree and then interlocking them. In contrast, Dharmavaram sarees are woven in a "pit loom" technique, where the entire saree is woven as a single piece, including the body, border, and pallu (the loose end of the saree).
Motifs and Designs: Kanjivaram sarees are known for their rich and intricate designs, often featuring traditional South Indian motifs such as temple borders, checks, and floral patterns. Dharmavaram sarees, on the other hand, typically showcase broader borders with contrasting colors and intricate designs inspired by nature, mythology, and local culture.
Pallu Design: The pallu of a Kanjivaram saree usually features elaborate designs and motifs that complement the overall look of the saree. In contrast, Dharmavaram sarees often have a plain or minimally designed pallu, allowing the focus to be on the border and body of the saree.
Color Palette: Kanjivaram sarees are known for their vibrant and contrasting color combinations, with a wide range of options available. Dharmavaram sarees, on the other hand, often feature more subtle and harmonious color schemes.
Both Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees are highly regarded and cherished for their beauty, craftsmanship, and cultural significance. Whether it's the weaving technique, designs, or regional influences, these sarees showcase the artistic diversity and heritage of South India.
Difference in Motifs
The motifs used in Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees differ in terms of their design elements and inspirations. Here are the general characteristics of motifs found in both saree types:
Kanjivaram Saree Motifs:
Temple Borders: Kanjivaram sarees are renowned for their temple border motifs, which draw inspiration from the architectural designs of South Indian temples. These motifs often feature intricate depictions of temple carvings, deities, peacocks, elephants, and other elements associated with temple art and culture.
Checks and Stripes: Another common motif in Kanjivaram sarees is the use of checks and stripes. These patterns can be either small or large and are typically created using contrasting colors. The checks and stripes add a distinctive visual appeal to the saree.
Floral Patterns: Floral motifs are often seen in Kanjivaram sarees, representing natural elements and incorporating various flowers like lotus, jasmine, and roses. These floral designs are intricately woven into the saree to create an elegant and timeless look.
Peacock Motifs: Peacocks hold a special place in South Indian culture, and their motifs are frequently used in Kanjeevaram sarees. Peacock-inspired designs are woven into the pallu or border of the saree, showcasing the grace and beauty of these majestic birds.
Dharmavaram Saree Motifs:
Nature-inspired Motifs: Dharmavaram sarees often feature motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, vines, and trees. These motifs are intricately woven into the saree to depict the beauty and abundance of the natural world.
Mythological Motifs: Dharmavaram sarees also draw inspiration from Hindu mythology and folklore. Motifs representing gods, goddesses, and mythological characters are commonly seen, symbolizing devotion and cultural heritage.
Peacock and Swan Motifs: Similar to Kanjivaram sarees, Dharmavaram sarees often incorporate peacock and swan motifs. These motifs are believed to symbolize grace, purity, and beauty, and they add an element of charm to the overall design.
Geometric Patterns: Dharmavaram sarees occasionally feature geometric patterns, such as squares, diamonds, and triangles, adding a contemporary touch to the traditional design. These geometric motifs are often combined with other elements to create a visually striking composition.
Buy my books at Amazon.com
