Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
When someone searches for the Banarasi Sarees or goes to buy the sarees, various types of terms are used to describe the sarees. Let me try to explain a few of the terms. I have dealt these terms elsewhere also in this blog.
1. Katan
Katan is the name of the silk yarn used to produce sarees. Simply speaking katan is degummed- very slightly twisted pure silk yarn. It is softer in feel. 2. Kadhuan or Jamdani.
This is one of the most used (and misused) terms in Banarasi sarees. Kadhuan involves producing designs using extra weft technique, without producing any surfeit yarn floats at the back of the fabric. It is epitome of weaving. It is manual, painstaking and mimics the tapestry weaving technique at much micro level. In India this is also called Jamdani in producing Kotas, Chanderis and Uppadas.
3. Brocade
It is a fabric where design dominates. Thus it can be a Resham brocade ( where the extra warp figuring is done with viscose or silk yarn) or Zari Brocade ( where the figuring is done with gold or silver yarn). When 60% of the fabric is covered by zari it is called Kimkhab.
4. Jamavar
Basically this paisley design in found in shawls. However in Banaras, they combine it beautifully in the pallu and hence are called Jamavar Brocades.
5. Cutwork
Unlike Kadhua, in cutwork, there are yarn floats at the back of the fabric which are cut after the fabric is woven, thereby creating an embossed effect on the fabric. Cutwork fabrics are cheaper as they can be made on machine Jacquards.
6. Raw Silk
Raw silk is the filament silk obtained from mulberry cocoons, from which it is not possible to obtain. These are non degummed and hence have their characteristic slubby appearance.
7. Summer Silk
Summer silk sarees have non degummed in the warp and twisted yarn in the weft.
8. Kora Silk
Kora silk is both organza in the warp and weft. It is non degummed.
9. Dupion Silk
It is produced by fine threads in the warp and uneven weft reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. It produces very deep colors.
10. Tanchoi
Tanchoi is the self design produced on the surface of the fabric with the help of resham or silk thread. There is no float either at the back or at the front of the fabric.
11. Tissue
In tissue fabric one or more warp or weft is of zari yarn. Thus it can be a silver tissue or can be a gold tissue.
12. Kadiyal
Kadiyal or Korvai is an ancient three shuttle technique of weaving sarees. Three shuttles are used for creating two border and the body. The borders are joined with the body in an interlocking way. Hence it is called Kaiyal technique. Apart from Banaras it is used in many handloom clusters of India.
Pitta work is an ancient work of embroidery in which first the filling is done with the help of metal wires and then it it beaten so that the texture becomes uniform.
What is TR Fabric? Meaning, Composition, Properties and Uses
TR fabric is one of the most common suiting fabrics used in the Indian textile and apparel market. In most commercial usage, TR refers to a polyester-rayon or polyester-viscose blended fabric, commonly used for trousers, suits, uniforms, safari suits and formalwear.
The term TR is often expanded as Terry Rayon or Terylene Rayon in trade language. It is not always used as a strict scientific fibre name, but as a practical market term for a fabric that combines the durability of polyester with the softness and drape of rayon or viscose.
TR fabric is generally understood as a blended suiting fabric made from polyester and rayon or viscose. In older and trade-oriented terminology, the polyester component may be referred to as Terylene, while the rayon component may be referred to as rayon or viscose rayon.
This is why TR is often explained as Terylene Rayon or Terry Rayon. In the fabric market, the same or similar fabrics may also be called poly-viscose, PV suiting, polyester-viscose suiting, TR suiting or Terry Rayon suiting.
Visual 1: TR fabric as a blend of polyester strength and viscose comfort.
It is important to understand that TR is mainly a commercial fabric term. A fabric should not be judged only by the name TR; its actual quality depends on the blend ratio, yarn count, fabric construction, GSM, finishing, dyeing, shrinkage control and garment requirement.
2. Typical Composition of TR Fabric
The exact composition of TR fabric can vary from one mill to another. Many TR suitings are sold in polyester-viscose blend ratios such as 65:35, 70:30, 80:20 or 85:15, depending on the intended price point and performance requirement.
A higher polyester percentage usually improves strength, crease recovery, dimensional stability and durability. A higher viscose percentage usually improves softness, absorbency, drape and wearing comfort.
Common Blend Ratio
Meaning
Likely Fabric Character
65:35
65% polyester and 35% viscose
Softer handle, better drape and better comfort compared with higher-polyester blends.
70:30
70% polyester and 30% viscose
Balanced commercial suiting quality with durability and acceptable comfort.
80:20
80% polyester and 20% viscose
More durable and crease-resistant, but may feel more synthetic.
85:15
85% polyester and 15% viscose
Often economical and durable, but comfort depends strongly on finishing and fabric construction.
3. Why Polyester and Viscose are Blended
The logic of TR fabric lies in blending two fibres with different strengths. Polyester gives the fabric durability, wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and better recovery, while viscose or rayon gives softness, absorbency, drape and a more comfortable handle.
If a fabric is made from 100% polyester, it may be strong and easy to maintain, but it can feel less absorbent and less comfortable in warm conditions. If a fabric is made from 100% viscose, it may be soft and drapey, but it may wrinkle easily and may not retain shape as well as a polyester-rich fabric.
TR fabric tries to balance these two behaviours. In very simple terms, polyester makes the fabric more practical, while viscose makes the fabric more wearable.
This formula is not a laboratory equation, but a useful way to remember the idea. The final performance of TR fabric does not depend only on fibre content; it also depends on yarn, weave, finishing and garment construction.
4. Properties of TR Fabric
TR fabric is popular because it gives a practical combination of formal appearance, durability and affordability. This is especially useful in markets where garments must look neat, withstand repeated use and remain within a moderate price range.
A well-made TR suiting fabric usually has a smooth surface, good fall, acceptable crease recovery and better resistance to daily wear than many soft cellulosic fabrics. However, the quality can vary widely, so the fabric name alone should never be treated as a guarantee of performance.
Property
Practical Meaning in TR Fabric
Strength
Usually better than pure viscose because of the polyester component.
Drape
Generally better than 100% polyester because viscose improves fall and handle.
Wrinkle Resistance
Better than cotton or pure viscose, especially when polyester percentage is higher.
Comfort
Usually better than pure polyester, but not as breathable as cotton or linen.
Appearance
Smooth, formal and suitable for trousers, suitings and uniforms.
Maintenance
Easier to maintain than wool suiting, but garment care still depends on construction.
Cost
Generally more economical than wool-rich suiting fabrics.
Visual 2: Main properties of TR fabric for suiting and uniform use.
5. Common Uses of TR Fabric
TR fabric is most commonly associated with suiting and formalwear. In India, it is widely seen in men’s trousers, formal suits, safari suits, waistcoats, blazers, corporate uniforms, school uniforms and institutional clothing.
The reason is simple: these garments require a clean appearance, reasonable durability, acceptable crease recovery and controlled cost. TR fabric meets these requirements better than many fabrics at the same price level.
End Use
Why TR Fabric is Suitable
Formal trousers
Good crease recovery, smooth appearance and reasonable durability.
Men’s suits
Affordable suiting option with a formal look and good fall.
School uniforms
Durability, easy maintenance and consistent availability.
Corporate uniforms
Neat appearance, repeatable quality and controlled cost.
Safari suits
Structured look, practical wearability and formal character.
6. TR Fabric Compared with Other Fabrics
TR fabric should not be understood in isolation. It is best understood by comparing it with 100% polyester, cotton and wool suiting because these are common alternatives in formalwear and uniform fabric selection.
Compared with pure polyester, TR fabric usually feels softer and more comfortable because of the viscose component. Compared with cotton, it usually wrinkles less and gives a more formal trouser-like appearance. Compared with wool suiting, it is usually cheaper and easier to maintain, but it does not have the same premium natural handle.
Fabric Type
Main Strength
Main Limitation
Typical Use
TR Fabric
Balanced formal appearance, durability and moderate comfort.
May feel synthetic if polyester percentage is very high.
Trousers, suits, uniforms and office wear.
100% Polyester
High durability, wrinkle resistance and easy care.
Lower absorbency and sometimes less comfortable in heat.
Uniforms, linings, sportswear and functional apparel.
Cotton
Good breathability and comfort.
Wrinkles easily and may require more ironing.
Shirts, casual wear, summer wear and uniforms.
Wool Suiting
Premium appearance, natural drape and tailoring elegance.
Higher cost and more careful maintenance.
Premium suits, jackets and formal tailoring.
7. How to Identify TR Fabric
A customer may not always be able to identify TR fabric only by looking at it. However, TR fabric usually has a smooth suiting-like surface, moderate body, good fall and better wrinkle recovery than cotton or pure viscose.
When crushed gently in the hand, TR fabric generally recovers better than cotton. It may also have a slightly synthetic resilience, but a softer touch than pure polyester because of the viscose or rayon component.
For accurate identification, one should check the fabric label, mill specification, invoice description or test report. Market names can be confusing, so a fabric sold as TR should ideally be supported by a declared fibre composition and basic quality parameters.
8. Buying and Merchandising Points
For buyers and merchandisers, TR fabric should be evaluated beyond the name. Important points include blend ratio, GSM, width, shrinkage, colour fastness, pilling tendency, handle, fall, crease recovery and suitability for the intended garment.
For trousers, the fabric should have enough body, recovery and surface stability. For uniforms, durability, shade consistency and washing performance are important. For suits, drape, handle and surface appearance become more important.
Buying Checkpoint
Why It Matters
Blend ratio
Determines the balance between durability, comfort and cost.
GSM and construction
Affects body, fall, opacity and garment suitability.
Finish
Improves appearance, handle, crease recovery and dimensional stability.
Colour fastness
Important for uniforms and repeat-use garments.
Pilling resistance
Important because poor-quality blends may develop surface pills with wear.
Shrinkage control
Essential for trouser length, waist fit and garment consistency.
Visual 3: Practical buying checklist for TR suiting fabric.
9. Care and Maintenance
TR fabric is generally easier to maintain than wool suiting, but the correct care method depends on the final garment. A simple trouser made from TR fabric may be washable, while a structured coat or suit jacket may require dry cleaning because of lining, interlining, shoulder pads and tailoring construction.
High heat should be avoided during ironing or tumble drying because polyester-containing fabrics can be affected by excessive temperature. It is always better to follow the garment care label rather than assuming the same care method for every TR fabric.
10. Simple Summary
TR fabric is a practical polyester-viscose or polyester-rayon blended fabric, mainly used for suitings, trousers, uniforms and formalwear. Polyester contributes strength, crease recovery and durability, while viscose contributes softness, drape and better comfort.
The most important point is that TR is a commercial fabric category, not a single fixed quality. A good TR fabric depends on the right blend ratio, yarn, weave, finish and end-use suitability.
Related Reading on Fabric Knowledge, Viscose and Fabric Quality
This article is intended for general textile education and practical fabric understanding. Fabric names such as TR, Terry Rayon, Terylene Rayon and poly-viscose may be used differently by different mills, traders and retailers, so actual fibre composition and performance should be confirmed through supplier specifications, labels or testing wherever accuracy is required.
The properties discussed here are general indications and may vary according to fibre blend, yarn count, weave structure, GSM, dyeing, finishing and garment construction. For commercial buying, product development or quality approval, actual fabric samples and test reports should be evaluated before final decisions are made.
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