Technical Specifications of a Pure Crepe Silk Saree

The following is the technical specification sheet of a pure crepe silk saree as mentioned in one of the tenders invited by Air India.

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Ilkal Saree

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1.These are manufactured with art silk or silk warp. They can have cotton or silk weft.

2. Body warp and Pallu are woven separately

3. The Pallu and border warp are joined in loop technique, it is locally known as Tope Teni. 

4. Weft is inserted using Three shuttle technique known as Kondi. 

5. The origin is from the town of Ilkal, in the Bagalkot District of Karnataka, India.

6. The unique feature of Ilkal saree is it's pallu that consists of contrast color (in this case red and white) alternate stripes woven in pure silk. 

7. These are worn in Northern Maharashtra and Karnataka.

8. The particular arrow border is called Gomi

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What is Chintz and Glaze Finish

A fabric frequently sold as dress material has a very superior luster. In India it comes from Ahmedabad. This is called Chintz.

Chintz is a 100% cotton fabric with glazed finish and multi color print. These fabrics are made of 50% polyester and 50% viscose. Ideally, a chintz fabric should have a highly twisted cotton warp intersecting a low coarse twisted cotton weft yarn. The weave should be firm.

Glaze finishing in chintz can be done in two ways. The first method is called "non durable" and the fabrics made from this method are called friction glazed. In this case the fabric is given a starch finish and then it is pressed between heated calender to produce a high luster or polish. It has a very good gloss and hand. However as the base is water soluble, it is sold as dry cleanable product.

In the durable class, the fabric is treated with resin. The resin binds the fabric with the help of cross linking.

A method to identify if a finish is of durable or non durable class is to use a drop of iodine on the fabric. If the drop turns blue it is of durable class, else non durable.

In India, prints in the style of bandhini do come with Chintz finish, have a look below:

How to Identify Uppada Jamdani Sari

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In Uppada style of weaving , the design is two sided and when the cloth is touched, the design cannot be felt separately from the cloth. That design is woven into the goods by using ada, jala and number of Tilis. There are no loose threads on either side and no dobbys or Jacquards are used.