Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Both these techniques are widely used in Saris and dress material in India
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Carbonized Polyester Printing
In the carbonization process the cellulosic component of the polyester/ cellulosic blend is dissolved by treating the fabric with 70% sulfuric acid along with small quantities of sulphamic- acid and urea, with the result one gets 100% polyester fabric with very soft handle. It is advisable to use polyester rich blends to avoid the problem of slippage. To produce the carbonized polyester prints initially the cloth is printed with the disperse dyes.
Disperse dye - x parts
Ammonium sulphate (or citric acid) - 3-5 parts
Sodium chlorate - 1 -2 parts
Thickening (guar gum) 600-700 parts
Water - y parts
Total - 1000 parts
Print, dry and fix by steaming at 130C for 30-45 min. The fabric is then be washed, reduction cleared
and carbonized. The carbonization process can be carried out either by a batch process in a jigger or by a pad-batch method. In the jigger the fabrics are treated for 30-40 min ( 2-4ends) at room temperature. The fabric is then washed and neutralized. A mild bleaching treatment may be given to improve the whiteness of the prints.
Brasso or Cut-out Style
This style involves localised dissolution of the cellulosic component at printed portion by printing the polyester /cellulosic fabric with acid liberating salts. The fabric is initially printed with:
Aluminium Sulphate - 200 parts
Water. - 100-200 parts
Citric acid - 20-30 parts
Wetting Agent(acid stable) - 10-20 parts
Glycerine - 50-70 parts
British gum (1: 1) - x parts
Total - 1000 parts
Print, dry, bake at 130-145'C for 3 to 5 min.
The goods are then thoroughly washed a winch to remove the
degraded cellulosic component. a winch to remove the degraded cellulosic component. Bleaching may be carried out to get better whiteness.
Cellulase enzyme treatment can also be done to get this effect, as it hydrolizes the cotton componetn. In the case of cotton rich blends, the traces of cellulosic part remain on material and therefore more severe enzymatic treatments are required. The acidic cellulase enzyme is the best suitable for this application. The same principle is used in brasso style of printing in which cellulosic portion is removed from the polyester-cotton blend material after printing. the advantages of carbonization using cellulase enzymes are: 1. The process is non-corrosive and non hazardous 2. Less wear and trea of machines 3. Eco friendly process 4. No separate curing is required as in conventional brasso printing. v. No adverse effect on the print color and feel of the fabric.
POY / PFY is largely used in shirtings and suitings, sarees, ladies’ dress material, and knitwear. It is preferred in men’s wear due to its higher crease recovery, wrinkle resistance, better drape, longer retention of prints and colours, and better abrasion as compared with competing fibres, such as PSF, VSF and NFY.
The use of POY / PFY in sarees has increased due to the development of crimping, twisting, texturising and wet processing technologies. These technologies offer more flexibility in designs and patterns. Moreover, these technologies help increase the air permeability of these yarns. As a result, the fabric would be able to absorb more moisture.
It is also used in applications, such as soft luggage and specialty fabrics. POY is sold by producers to the texturising units. The texturising units process it and sell it to weavers (largely in the powerloom sector). Unlike PSF, PFY is not blended with cotton by blended yarn producers, since it is in the filament form and not in the fiber form. However, in the powerloom stage, PFY can be woven with other yarns.
POY / PFY is a substitute for cotton and other synthetic yarns. POY / PFY has a number of advantages over its substitutes.
These advantages include:
Better Properties: POY / PFY is more durable, does not fade on exposure to sunlight or soap, has better abrasion resistance, drape and crease recovery properties, and is wrinkle resistant
Price Competitiveness: Since the 1990s, POY prices have declined significantly, largely due to the decline in the landed costs, on account of decline in the import duty
FULLY DRAWN YARNS
Normal Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) needs to be necessarily texturised before being used for making fabric whereas FDY, as the name of the yarn itself indicates, is drawn fully during the process of spinning itself and therefore does away with the requirement of texturising and can use directly for making fabric.
FDY is generally used for better quality fabric. As the process of texturising is avoided, FDY yields higher contribution as compared to the normal POY.
The following are the properties incorporated during texturing of FDY:
Low Intermingle Yarn
These are comprised of high modules mono filaments. The range is highly popular because the entanglement spacings in these yarns are relatively low and the tenacity remains relatively unaffected.
Non Internmingle Yarn
Non Intermingle Yarn is known for their minimal entanglement spacings and hence it facilitates easy use.
High Intermingle Yarn
These yarns are commonly used for making fabrics. The range can be availed in different Deniers depending upon the requirements of the clients.
Garment Fitting is how well the garment conforms to the wearer’s body. It is influenced by fashion trends, personal preferences, the usage and the function of the garment.
Five Elements of Garment Fitting
Five elements are used to evaluate the fitness of the garment. They are grain, set, balance, line and ease.
Grain
Garments must be cut on grain. The lengthwise grain of the fabric must run parallel to the length of the body and the crosswise grain must run perpendicular to the body. Otherwise, garments will not hang straight. The seamlines may twist.
Set
The garment with good set will be worn smoothly on the wearer’s body without any set
wrinkles. Set wrinkles are always found on the oversize or undersize garments. Balance
The good garment must look symmetrically balance at the front or back view. The centre lines of the garment and the body must be aligned. Unbalanced garments worn unevenly on wearers will show poor postures.
Line
The structural lines of the good garments must follow the natural lines of wearers. Out-of-line garments will show poor postures and wearers will not feel comfortable.
Ease
Ease refers to the amount of roominess in a garment. Garments require adequate ease to provide sufficient room for body movement and show the designed style. Lack of ease will effect the movement of wearers.
About Ease
Ease is the measurable difference between measurement of the body and measurement of the garment.
The garments have two types of ease:
1. Wearing ease
2. Design Ease
All garments must contain wearing ease to allow for movement and livability. You cannot alter the garment based on this ease.
Wearing ease follows the basic rule that the wearer must be able to move bend, breathe, sit, raise arms and walk without the garment being overpulled, pinched, binded, stretched or strained beyond a natural relaxed position.
Rigid fabrics are hard and stiff. They require more wearing ease than stretch fabrics. Stretch fabrics may require less comfort allowances.
Design Ease defines the silhouette. It is over and above the wearing ease.
Fitted body has only wearing ease. The design ease gets added as the silhouette moves from semi fitted to slightly fitted to loosely fitted.
Some Wearing Ease Criteria
(I) Women
1.5 to 2" wearing ease at bust
3/4" to 1" wearing ease at waist
2"-2 3/4" wearing ease at hips
(II)
Some people say that There is a minimum wearing ease that is 6 cm in the bust area, 2 cm in the waist and 4 in the hips
Type of Garment Chest/Bust Ease Allowance
Shirt /Blouse 10~14 cm
Jacket 16~24 cm
Coat 20~28 cm
(V)
(V)
Mens
Fitted shirts: 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" wearing ease through the chest
Classic or standard shirts have - 3" ease
pants: 3/4" or 1" ease at the waistline
Pants : have 1 1/2" wearing ease through the seat.
Pants: must have min. 1" wearing ease through the thigh
According to Burgo (1998), there are three variable factors that determine ease allowance:
a. Silhouette- whether regular, fitted or loose.
b. Positioning of clothing with respect to proximity to the surface of the body
c. Thickness of the material (with thicker material, the fabric in the seam allowance occupies space and reduces ease)
As per positioning, there are five different degrees:
a. Zero Degrees- Clothing worn directly in contact with skin, e.g. underwear.
b. First Degree- Clothing worn directly on top of underwear
c. Second Degree- Clothing on top of the first degree
d. Third Degree- Very heavy weight clothing.
e. Fourth Degree- Clothing with lining such as fur and quilt.
Based on that the following tables gives the ease amount used for various degrees:
What Are BSY Yarns? Understanding Bi-Shrinkage Yarns in Polyester Fabrics
In the textile trade, certain yarn names become very common in the market, but their technical meaning remains only partly understood. BSY yarn is one such example. Fabric traders, yarn dealers, weavers and processors may use the term regularly, especially in relation to polyester fabrics, burkha fabrics, scarves, dress materials and women’s wear. Yet, when one asks what exactly makes BSY different from ordinary polyester filament yarn, the explanation is often reduced to a simple phrase: “It gives softness and texture.”
That explanation is not wrong, but it is incomplete. BSY stands for Bi-Shrinkage Yarn. The word itself gives the clue. “Bi” means two, and “shrinkage” refers to the different contraction behaviour of yarn components during processing. A BSY yarn is not just a soft yarn. It is an engineered composite yarn in which two yarn components with different shrinkage properties are combined. When the fabric made from this yarn is subjected to heat, wet processing, washing, relaxation or finishing, one component shrinks more than the other. This difference in shrinkage creates bulk, surface texture, micro-loops and a soft fabric handle.
In simple words, BSY yarn hides its full character inside the yarn. Its real effect appears when the fabric is processed. This makes BSY a very good example of how yarn structure, polymer behaviour, fabric construction and finishing interact to create a final textile effect.
Visual 1: Basic principle of BSY yarn — two filament components with different shrinkage behaviour combine to form one composite yarn.
1. Meaning of BSY Yarn
BSY means Bi-Shrinkage Yarn. It is called bi-shrinkage because it uses two yarn components that do not shrink equally during processing. The difference in shrinkage is not a defect; it is the main design principle of the yarn. The yarn is deliberately made in such a way that one component responds more strongly to heat, wet relaxation or finishing than the other component.
This differential behaviour creates the final effect in the fabric. Therefore, BSY should not be understood merely as a trade name for a soft polyester yarn. It should be understood as a composite filament yarn whose value lies in controlled shrinkage difference. The simple relationship may be written as:
This equation is not a mathematical law in the strict scientific sense. It is a practical textile way of remembering the mechanism. BSY is not just about the yarn. It is about the way the yarn behaves after fabric formation and finishing.
2. The Basic Principle of Bi-Shrinkage
A BSY yarn is made by combining two filament yarns that do not behave identically during finishing. One component has relatively higher shrinkage, while the other has lower shrinkage. When both are combined into one yarn and later processed as fabric, the high-shrinkage component contracts more. The low-shrinkage component cannot contract to the same extent, so it forms small loops, waves or surface irregularities.
This is the basic mechanism behind the characteristic BSY fabric effect. The result is a fabric that may show soft handle, dry touch, bulkiness, improved covering power, peach-skin surface, brushed-like appearance, mild terry-loop character, improved drape and a smooth fall. The exact effect depends on the yarn components, denier, filament count, fabric construction and finishing route.
If the shrinkage of the high-shrink component is represented as \(S_h\), and the shrinkage of the low-shrink component is represented as \(S_l\), the useful differential shrinkage may be represented as:
\[
\Delta S = S_h - S_l
\]
Here, \(\Delta S\) is the difference in shrinkage between the two components. If this difference is properly controlled, it helps to produce the desired texture. If the difference is too small, the fabric may not develop enough bulk or surface character. If it is too large and poorly controlled, the fabric may become unstable, uneven or difficult to finish consistently.
3. Commercial Construction: POY and FDY Combination
In the polyester industry, BSY yarn is commonly made by combining POY and FDY. POY means Partially Oriented Yarn. It is not fully drawn and therefore retains latent shrinkage and draw potential. FDY means Fully Drawn Yarn. It is more stable and has lower shrinkage compared to POY. When POY and FDY are combined, the two components create the differential shrinkage behaviour needed for BSY yarn.
Component
Full Form
Typical Role in BSY
POY
Partially Oriented Yarn
Usually contributes higher latent shrinkage or draw potential
FDY
Fully Drawn Yarn
Usually contributes dimensional stability and lower shrinkage
During fabric finishing, the relatively higher-shrinkage component tends to contract more. The more stable component remains comparatively less contracted. Because the two are physically combined, the difference in shrinkage creates surface unevenness, soft bulk and a textured effect. This is why BSY fabrics often feel different from ordinary flat filament polyester fabrics.
4. BSY and ITY: Are They the Same?
In the market, BSY is often sold or described as ITY, which stands for Intermingled Textured Yarn. Many manufacturers use the terms BSY, ITY or ITY/BSY almost interchangeably. This happens because many commercial ITY yarns are made by combining POY and FDY in a way that creates differential shrinkage.
However, there is a small technical distinction. BSY describes the principle of the yarn: two components with different shrinkage. ITY describes the intermingling or combining of yarn components. In actual commercial polyester yarns, both ideas often come together. A POY and FDY combination may be intermingled to form a yarn that behaves as a bi-shrinkage yarn during finishing.
So, in trade language, BSY and ITY may refer to very similar yarns. But in technical writing, it is better to say that commercially, BSY yarns are often sold as ITY or ITY/BSY. Strictly speaking, BSY refers to the differential shrinkage principle, while ITY refers more to the intermingled yarn structure or process category.
5. How the BSY Effect Develops in Fabric
The most important thing to understand is that the BSY effect does not fully appear at the yarn stage. It develops during fabric processing. This is why BSY can be called a latent texture yarn. The texture is hidden in the differential shrinkage potential of the yarn and becomes visible after processing.
Visual 2: BSY effect development during wet finishing or heat relaxation — the high-shrinkage component contracts and the low-shrinkage component forms micro-loops.
The process can be understood step by step. First, two yarn components with different shrinkage are combined. Second, the composite yarn is woven or knitted into fabric. Third, the fabric is subjected to washing, wet processing, heat setting, relaxation or stenter finishing. Fourth, the high-shrinkage component contracts more. Fifth, the low-shrinkage component is pushed outward or forms loops and undulations. Finally, the fabric develops a soft, bulky, textured, peach-like or brushed-like surface.
In some fabrics, the result may be very soft and flowing. In others, the result may be slightly grainy, dry and crepe-like. In some constructions, a mild sueded or peach-skin effect may appear. The final handle is not determined by yarn alone. It depends on fabric design and finishing control.
6. Difference Between BSY and Conventional Textured Yarn
BSY yarns should also be distinguished from conventional textured yarns. In conventional texturing, the yarn is given crimp, bulk or stretch before it is converted into fabric. This may be done through false-twist texturing, air-jet texturing or other mechanical and thermal methods. The yarn itself becomes textured before weaving or knitting.
In BSY, the principle is different. The yarn contains two components with different shrinkage properties. The final texture is developed mainly in the fabric stage during finishing. This makes BSY an interesting yarn category because it gives fabric designers and processors a way to create texture and handle through shrinkage engineering rather than only through mechanical texturing.
Point
Conventional Textured Yarn
BSY Yarn
Main principle
Crimp or texture is introduced before fabric making
Texture develops due to differential shrinkage
Stage of effect
Mostly yarn stage
Mostly fabric finishing stage
Common method
False twist, air jet, stuffer box and similar methods
Combining yarns of different shrinkage
Fabric result
Stretch, bulk, crimp and covering power
Softness, dry touch, peach skin, bulk and drape
Technical idea
Pre-textured yarn
Latent shrinkage-based texture
7. Common BSY Yarn Specifications
BSY yarns are available in several deniers and filament counts. The specification is commonly written as denier followed by filament count. For example, 80D/48F means a yarn of 80 denier made of 48 filaments. The “D” stands for denier and the “F” stands for filament count.
Specification
Meaning
General Interpretation
50D/48F
50 denier yarn with 48 filaments
Fine yarn, suitable where lighter fabric and softer fall are desired
80D/48F
80 denier yarn with 48 filaments
Common medium-fine commercial BSY quality
109D/72F
109 denier yarn with 72 filaments
Can give more body while retaining filament softness
118D/108F
118 denier yarn with 108 filaments
Higher filament count may support softer surface feel
130D/72F
130 denier yarn with 72 filaments
Heavier quality, useful where more cover and body are required
135D/108F
135 denier yarn with 108 filaments
Heavier fine-filament variant used for richer fabric effects
A higher filament count generally means finer individual filaments, which can contribute to softer handle, smoother surface and better drape. However, the final feel also depends on the yarn combination, intermingling level, fabric construction and finishing. Therefore, two fabrics made from the same nominal BSY count may still feel different if the processing and construction are different.
8. Why BSY Fabrics Feel Different
The special feel of BSY fabrics comes from internal imbalance. This may sound unusual, but it is true. The yarn is designed with controlled imbalance between two components. This imbalance becomes useful during finishing. When one component shrinks and the other does not shrink to the same extent, the fabric surface changes.
The low-shrinkage component may form small loops or waves. These micro-loops scatter light, change the touch and create a fuller surface. This can make the fabric feel less flat than ordinary filament polyester. The handle may be soft but not limp, dry but not harsh, bulky but not heavy, textured but not necessarily rough, and drapey but with some body.
This combination is one reason BSY yarns are popular in women’s wear fabrics, burkha fabrics, scarves and dress materials. The fabric can retain the advantages of synthetic filament yarns while offering a richer handle and a more interesting surface.
9. Applications of BSY Yarns
BSY yarns are widely used in polyester-based fabrics where handle, drape and surface texture are important. The yarn is especially useful where the fabric must not look too flat, too synthetic or too lifeless. It helps create a fuller, softer and more commercially attractive surface.
Application
Reason for Using BSY
Burkha and abaya fabrics
Soft fall, opacity, drape and dry touch
Scarves
Lightness, fluidity and surface softness
Dress materials
Texture, body and comfort
Women’s tops
Soft handle and smooth surface
Trousers
Drape, resilience and coverage
Skirts and one-piece dresses
Flow, movement and elegant fall
In burkha and abaya fabrics, the requirements are quite specific. The fabric should usually have good opacity, graceful fall, soft handle and sufficient body. It should not feel too sticky or clingy. BSY yarns help achieve these properties when used with the right construction and finishing.
10. Role of Finishing in BSY Fabrics
Finishing is critical in BSY fabrics. A poorly finished BSY fabric may not show the desired effect. A well-finished BSY fabric can show excellent handle and surface character. This is because the finishing process activates the shrinkage difference inside the yarn.
Important finishing factors include wet relaxation, temperature, washing action, stenter overfeed, heat setting, fabric tension, finishing chemicals and drying conditions. If the fabric is processed under too much tension, the shrinkage effect may be suppressed. If the relaxation is controlled properly, the differential shrinkage can develop more fully.
Similarly, excessive heat, poor process control or unsuitable mechanical action may disturb the desired surface effect or dimensional stability. Therefore, BSY yarn should not be judged in isolation. A fabric made from BSY yarn can perform well only when the finishing process is aligned with the yarn’s shrinkage behaviour.
11. Technical Caution for Buyers and Merchandisers
For buyers and merchandisers, BSY should not be accepted merely as a trade name. It is useful to ask more specific questions before comparing price, approving fabric or explaining the fabric to retail teams. The same word “BSY” may be used for fabrics of very different quality levels.
What is the yarn specification?
Is it POY plus FDY based?
What is the denier and filament count?
Is the yarn semi-dull, bright or full-dull?
What finishing route has been used?
What is the expected shrinkage after washing?
Does the fabric show peach, dry, brushed or smooth effect?
Is the fabric suitable for dyeing, printing or only solid shades?
What is the GSM and width?
What is the end-use recommendation?
These questions are important because the same yarn name does not guarantee the same fabric result. One fabric may have excellent soft fall, while another may feel harsh or unstable. The difference may come from yarn quality, component ratio, intermingling, fabric structure or finishing.
12. BSY in the Context of Polyester Innovation
Polyester is often criticised for being synthetic, flat or uncomfortable. But polyester filament yarn technology has evolved greatly. BSY is one example of how polyester can be engineered for better handle and aesthetics. Instead of using polyester only as a flat filament yarn, manufacturers modify its behaviour through orientation, shrinkage, texturing, intermingling and finishing.
BSY uses the shrinkage behaviour of different yarn components to create a more interesting fabric surface. This is why BSY is important in the commercial textile industry. It allows polyester fabrics to imitate some desirable qualities of natural or textured fabrics, such as softness, bulk, drape and surface richness, while retaining the advantages of synthetic filament yarns.
13. Simple Explanation for Students
For students, BSY can be understood with a simple analogy. Imagine tying together two rubber bands. One rubber band shrinks strongly when heated, while the other shrinks only slightly. When heat is applied, the stronger-shrinking rubber band pulls inward, while the other becomes loose and wavy. Something similar happens inside BSY yarns.
One yarn component shrinks more. The other does not shrink as much. Because they are combined, the difference creates small loops and waves. These loops and waves create texture and softness in the fabric. So the key idea is simple: BSY yarn creates fabric texture by using controlled shrinkage difference between two yarn components.
14. Conclusion
BSY yarn is much more than a market term. It is a technically interesting yarn based on differential shrinkage. In many commercial polyester applications, BSY is produced by combining POY and FDY components. During fabric finishing, the high-shrinkage component contracts more than the low-shrinkage component. This creates micro-loops, bulk, texture, softness and a distinctive fabric handle.
The beauty of BSY lies in the fact that its effect is activated during processing. The yarn carries a hidden potential, and the finishing process reveals it. For textile students, BSY is a good example of how yarn structure, polymer behaviour and finishing conditions work together. For merchandisers and buyers, it is a reminder that fabric quality cannot be judged by yarn name alone. One must understand denier, filament count, shrinkage, construction and finishing.
In one sentence: BSY yarn is an engineered bi-shrinkage composite yarn in which controlled shrinkage difference between yarn components creates texture, bulk, softness and drape in the finished fabric.
Related Reading on Polyester, Yarn Quality and Fabric Finishing
Parth Enterprise. Bi Shrinkage Yarn. The source describes BSY as a combination of yarns with different shrinkage and explains the commercial POY plus FDY route used to create differential shrinkage.
Maharaja Industries. Bi-shrinkage Yarns (BSY). The source explains BSY as a composite yarn that provides in-situ texture during processing and lists applications such as burka fabrics, abaya, scarf, trousers and dress material.
Manohar Capital. Bi Shrinkage Yarns. The source describes BSY as yarn made by spinning together POY and FDY and notes that it is normally termed BSY or ITY in trade.
Sirang Co-op. ITY Polyester Thread. The source explains ITY as a yarn created by merging filament yarns with different shrinkage characteristics, such as POY and FDY.
IMIMG Technical PDF. Bi Shrinkage Yarn Description. The document explains the shrink-bulk effect, including the looping out of low-shrink components during wet finishing or stenter processing.
16. General Disclaimer
This article is intended for textile education and general merchandising understanding. BSY yarn behaviour can vary depending on polymer type, POY and FDY quality, denier, filament count, intermingling level, lustre, yarn supplier, fabric construction, wet processing, heat setting, washing, finishing chemicals and end-use requirement. Buyers, mills and merchandisers should verify actual fabric performance through supplier specifications, laboratory testing, shrinkage testing, GSM and width checking, shade trials and bulk production evaluation before making commercial decisions.
