What are Plisse and Burnout Prints

Plissé Prints

The plisse prints are created by application of strong alkali to 100% cotton fabric. The alkali is applied in a pattern. After some time ( usually several minutes) the fabric is washed so that the alkali is removed. This results in the shrinkage of fabric from those areas where alkali is applied. This shrinkage causes puckering in the areas where alkali is not applied. A seersucker type appearance can be given to the fabric by applying the print pattern in parallel stripes. The alkali can be applied using direct or resist methods. 

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Burn Out Prints

A beautiful "burn out" effect can be created by applying strong mineral acids or acid salts in the selected areas of a cotton polyester blended fabric. The acids will cause cotton to be destroyed and the polyeste rremains. Thus very beautiful lacey designs can be imparted to the fabric. Also in the burn out paste, a disperse dye can be incorporated which will also dye the polyester which burnout is taking place. However, due to the corrosive nature of the process special protections need to be taken.

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Motifs in Patola Saris

Ratanchowk

Kesar Chandan Design

Chhabdi Bhaat

Chanda Bhaat

Naari Kunjar Design

Five Phool Bhat

Three Phool Bhat

Sarvariya Bhat

Vora Gaji

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My Notes about Textile Books: Fabric Analysis

An excellent book on fabric analysis can be found here. 

This book is unique is the sense, that it takes care to analyse the fiber contents in common fabrics.

It gives detailed explanation on the following (among others):

1. Distinguishing between cotton and silk, silk and linen
2. Distinguishing between Weighted and Normal Silk.

I haven't tested the chemical procedure described in the book. Users are advised their discretion. And yes, this book is quite old, so don't expect to find treatment on Synthetic fibers.

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Difference between Blended Fabrics and Union Fabrics

Blended Fabrics are made up of blended yarns. Blended yarns contain fibers of different composition in fixed proportions. Thus a blended fabric may be made of polyester/cotton in 67:33 ratio in both warp and weft. 

Union fabrics are the fabrics where in the fibre content of warp is different form that of  weft. Thus a Silk/Viscose union fabric may have silk in the warp and viscose in the weft. 

An excellent study on silk/viscose union fabrics can be found here. 

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