Monday, 1 March 2010

Which yarn is better for knitting: Ring or Compact



A study on cotton yarn was done to answer the question mentioned above. It was done by Muhameet Akaydin of Pamukkale University, Turkey. The following are the conclusions from the study:

1. Compact fabrics absorb more dyes and thus have vivid colors than the ring fabrics.

2. They have higher abrasion resistance and lower pilling tendency than ring fabrics.

3. They show higher bursting strength than ring yarns.

You can download the full study here.

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General Value Addition Norms for Textiles in India



These are some of the standard value addition norms

Fibre to Spun Yarn: 75%
Yarn to Grey: 40%
Grey Fabric to processed fabric for apparel consumption: 80%
Grey Fabric to non apparel textile items: 100%
Processed fabric to apparel: 110%
Retail value addition for Apparel: 100%


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Saturday, 20 February 2010

What is Coated Denim



One reader has asked about coated denim.

Such jeans have a coating that feels like as if the cotton of the denim is waxed. If black in color, the jeans shines up like leather pants.

The coating is generally done using pigment, acrylic or polyurethane coating. Pigment coating provides the denim a new look and experience after every wash. Acrylic and PU, however, act as a transparent coating. This protects the fading properties. It also gives the fabric a protective breathable layer with stain resistant properties. The luster and feel of the fabric are also improved.

Resin Coating is generally done with the help of wooden handle. A rubber squeezer is used to extract resin under pressure to form leather effect on denim garment. It is a neutral ( pH 7) cream-colored paste that is miscible in cold water and resistant to heat upto 200 degree
Celcius. It is self catalysed and chlorine resistant.

The coating can be applied on the garment by screen, brush or knife edge. Machine coating is also possible.

After applying coating the fabric is dried and cured at 150 degree Celcius of 5 minutes.

Normally the coating are permanent in nature and able to sustain multiple launderings.

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Wednesday, 17 February 2010

What is the Meaning of T500 100% Cotton 100x100 185x295 118: 4PI (1/1)



I was recently asked this question by a reader.

Let me explain this to you:

T500: Means number of threads per square inch of the cloth are 500. This is also known as the thread count.
To calculate. Cut a square inch of the fabric. Count the number of weft threads in that region and count the number of warp threads in the region and add the two. Thread count = Number of warp threads+ Number of Weft threads.

100% cotton: Is Self Evident. The fabric is made of 100% cotton.

100x100: It is the English count of warp and weft.

185 x 195 : This indicate the number of ends ( warp threads) and number of Picks ( weft threads) per inch. Incidently 185+195= ~500 which is the thread count.

118" is the width of the fabric in inches.

4PI(1/1) : It means that the weave is one-up-one-down but four picks are inserted at a time. If two picks are inserted at a time it is called DPI ( Double pick Insertion) if single pick is inserted it is called SPI ( Single Pick Insertion).

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