Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
"There are no bad dyes - only bad dyers" is the punch-line of Batik Oetoro , who are suppliers of textile materials, service and know-how to the artists.
The website is well structured and brimming with information.
Click on dyes and you get to see a colorful assortment of dyes. Move down and you will find the dyeing instructions for that class of dyes. There is also a dye receipe for hand painting of the fabrics. Also dyeing instructions for all possible applications are given. For example the following techniques are explained for acid dyes:
Under "Fabric Decorating", some marvellous techniques using dyes such as Devore and Marbelling are given.
Though the site was last updated in 2008, you can get an idea about the cost comparison of the different classes of dyes.
There is also an automatic calculator which convert virtually every weight and volume measurement into teaspoons. I really love their most comprehensive instructions on natural dyes . They also have instructions for dyeing silk/viscose blend. For the curious, they have a list of common names used for chemicals . For the beginner a summary of dyes is given. Of course, they have a glossary of terms .
How to Determine the Weight of Pile Warp in Terry Towel
Weight of Pile Warp = weight of pile warp in pile part + that in plain part + that in fringe a. Weight of pile warp in pile part ( Pile ratio: 52:10) =( Length of pile part x number of pile threads x pile length x yarn count in tex) / (100 x 1000) = (102 x 576 x 52 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000) = 183.31 g
b. Weight of Pile warp in Plain Part =( Length of plain fabric x number of pile threads x crimp factor x yarn count)/ (100 x 1000) = (4 x 576 x 1.08 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000) = 1.49 g
c. Weight of Pile warp in fringe ( No crimp , no loop ) = (fringe length x number of pile threads x yarn count)/(100 x 1000) = (2 x 576 x 30 x 2)/(100 x 1000) = 0.69 g Weight of pile warp = 183.31+ 1.49 + 0.69 = 185.49
How to Determine the Weight of Weft in Terry Towel
Weight of Weft Yarn
= (Total no of weft threads x reed width x yarn count)/(100 x 1000) (Reed width is equal to the length of one weft yarn) = (106 x 20 x 58.4 x 34)/(100 x 1000) = 42.09 g
Calculating the Weight of Ground Warp in a Terry Towel
A terry towel is different from an ordinary woven fabric because it has a looped surface. These loops are responsible for the towel’s softness, bulk, absorbency and characteristic hand feel. Unlike a simple plain woven cloth, a terry towel normally uses two warp systems and one weft system. These are the ground warp, pile warp and weft.
The ground warp forms the foundation of the towel. It gives strength and stability to the fabric. The pile warp forms the loops on the surface. The weft binds the warp systems together and helps create the final towel structure. In this article, we shall calculate only the weight of the ground warp used in one towel. The pile warp and weft calculations can be taken separately.
In a terry towel, the pile loops are not accidental. They are deliberately formed by controlling the movement and tension of the pile warp during weaving. The pile warp is usually kept under lower tension than the ground warp, so that it can be pulled forward and formed into loops. The ground warp remains more tightly controlled and works as the structural base of the towel.
This is why terry towel weight calculation is not done exactly like a simple flat fabric calculation. We have to treat each yarn system according to its function in the fabric. The ground warp, pile warp and weft do not consume yarn in the same way. Their yarn counts, lengths, crimp values and structural roles may be different.
Visual 1: Basic terry towel structure showing ground warp, pile warp and weft.
2. Given Data
Let us assume the following construction details for the towel. These values are used to explain the method of calculation. In practical mill work, the values should be taken from actual fabric construction, loom settings, yarn count records and production data.
Parameter
Value
Length of grey towel
106 cm
Number of ground warp ends
694
Ground warp count
\(25 \text{ tex} \times 2\)
Warp crimp
8%
Warp crimp factor
1.08
Fringe length
2 cm
The ground warp count is given as \(25 \text{ tex} \times 2\). This means that the yarn is a two-ply yarn. Each ply is 25 tex, so the effective yarn count for calculation is:
\[
25 \times 2 = 50 \text{ tex}
\]
3. Understanding Tex
Tex is a direct yarn count system. It tells us how many grams are present in 1000 metres of yarn. In direct count systems, a higher tex value means a heavier or coarser yarn, while a lower tex value means a finer yarn.
\[
\text{Tex} = \frac{\text{Weight in grams}}{1000 \text{ metres}}
\]
So, if a yarn is 50 tex, it means that 1000 metres of that yarn weighs 50 grams. This makes tex very useful for calculating yarn weight when the length of yarn is known.
Practical point: Whenever tex is used, the length must ultimately be converted into metres. Since towel dimensions are often written in centimetres, the centimetre-to-metre conversion must be handled carefully.
4. Why Ground Warp Is Calculated in Two Parts
The ground warp is present in two places. It is present in the main grey fabric body of the towel, and it is also present in the fringe portion. These two portions are treated separately because the yarn behaviour is different in both areas.
In the grey fabric body, the ground warp interlaces with the weft. Because of this interlacement, the yarn does not remain perfectly straight. It follows a slightly wavy path. This extra length is called warp crimp or warp take-up.
In the fringe portion, the yarn is generally considered to be straight and loose. Therefore, warp crimp is usually not added to the fringe calculation in a basic estimate.
\[
\text{Total ground warp weight}
=
\text{Ground warp in grey fabric}
+
\text{Ground warp in fringe}
\]
5. Formula for Ground Warp in Grey Fabric
The formula for calculating the ground warp weight in the grey fabric body is:
The denominator \(100 \times 1000\) is used for unit conversion. The fabric length is given in centimetres, while tex is based on metres. Since \(100 \text{ cm} = 1 \text{ metre}\), and tex is based on \(1000 \text{ metres}\), the conversion factor becomes:
\[
100 \times 1000 = 100000
\]
Visual 2: Ground warp calculation flow from construction data to yarn weight.
\[
\boxed{\text{Weight of ground warp in grey fabric} = 39.72 \text{ g}}
\]
7. Why Warp Crimp Is Important
Warp crimp is the extra yarn length required because of interlacement. In a woven fabric, warp yarns pass over and under the weft yarns. This makes their actual path longer than the straight fabric length. Therefore, if we calculate warp consumption only from the straight fabric length, we may underestimate the yarn actually required.
If the fabric length is 100 cm and the warp crimp is 8%, the actual yarn length consumed is:
\[
100 \times 1.08 = 108 \text{ cm}
\]
So an 8% crimp means that for every 100 cm of fabric length, 108 cm of warp yarn is required. In this example, a crimp factor of 1.08 has been used:
\[
1 + \frac{8}{100} = 1.08
\]
In actual production, warp crimp may vary depending on yarn tension, weave structure, reed setting, picks per cm, finishing shrinkage and loom conditions. Therefore, crimp should ideally be taken from mill records or measured from actual fabric samples.
8. Formula for Ground Warp in Fringe
The fringe length is calculated separately. The formula is:
In this basic calculation, crimp is not added to the fringe because the fringe yarn is not interlaced like the main fabric body. However, for a detailed production costing, fringe trimming, knotting, twisting and wastage may also have to be considered.
At first glance, the ground warp weight may appear small. However, this is understandable in terry towel construction. A terry towel is not a flat fabric where the ground warp, weft and total fabric weight are closely balanced. In a terry towel, the pile warp contributes a major share of the final weight because the pile warp forms the loops.
The ground warp is mainly a foundation system. Its purpose is to hold the fabric together and provide dimensional stability. It is not expected to contribute the largest portion of the towel weight. The pile warp, because of its loop formation and pile ratio, normally consumes much more yarn than the ground warp.
Visual 3: Conceptual comparison of ground warp, pile warp and weft contribution in a terry towel.
12. Practical Notes for Textile Calculations
This calculation is a basic yarn consumption estimate. It is useful for understanding how ground warp weight is calculated, but actual mill calculations may require additional allowances. In production, theoretical yarn consumption and practical yarn requirement are not always the same.
Factor
Why it matters
Actual warp crimp
Changes the real yarn length consumed in the fabric body.
Loom waste
Extra yarn is required during weaving, tying, starting and ending.
Beam gaiting waste
Warp preparation and loom setting may consume additional yarn.
Fringe trimming
The final towel may lose some yarn during trimming or finishing.
Sizing material
Sizing may increase grey fabric weight before desizing or washing.
Moisture regain
Measured yarn and fabric weight may vary with atmospheric moisture.
Yarn count variation
Actual yarn may differ slightly from the nominal tex value.
Finishing shrinkage
Final dimensions and GSM may change after washing and finishing.
Therefore, for production costing, this theoretical value should be adjusted using mill experience and actual fabric measurements. The formula gives the logic, but the mill data gives the practical correction.
13. Key Learning
The ground warp weight of a terry towel depends on four main things: the length of the towel, the number of ground warp ends, the yarn count in tex and the warp crimp or take-up. The basic logic is simple:
The most important point is to handle the units carefully. Since tex is based on grams per 1000 metres and towel length is often given in centimetres, the conversion factor must be applied properly. A calculation may look simple, but a small unit error can produce a very large difference in yarn consumption and costing.
For a textile student, merchandiser or production planner, this calculation gives a useful foundation for understanding towel costing and yarn consumption. The ground warp is only one part of the towel. To calculate the complete towel weight, one must also calculate the pile warp and weft weights separately.
In the next part, we can calculate the pile warp weight, which is usually the most important contributor to the weight, feel, absorbency and bulk of a terry towel.
Related Reading on Textile Calculations, Yarn Count and Fabric Weight
Hutex. Terry Towel: Terry Weaving. Available at: https://hutex.co.kr/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Terry_Towel.pdf
ScienceDirect Topics. Pile Warp - An Overview. Available at: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/pile-warp
Textile School. Terry Towels: Fabrics That Can Absorb Large Amounts of Water. Available at: https://www.textileschool.com/3211/terry-towels-fabrics-that-can-absorb-large-amounts-of-water/
Resil Chemicals. Technical Tuesday: Terry Towel. Available at: https://resiltextiles.com/wp-content/uploads/simple-file-list/Technical-Tuesday/2014/TT-Terry-Towel.pdf
ResearchGate. An Investigation into the Parameters of Terry Fabrics Regarding the Production. Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/293131432_An_investigation_into_the_parameters_of_terry_fabrics_regarding_the_production
General Disclaimer
This article is intended for educational understanding of terry towel yarn consumption calculations. The numerical values used here are illustrative and should not be treated as universal production standards. Actual mill calculations may vary depending on yarn count variation, loom settings, pile ratio, warp and weft crimp, sizing, wastage, finishing shrinkage, moisture regain and the specific construction of the towel.
For commercial costing, production planning or quality control, the calculation should be verified with actual fabric samples, mill records and approved technical specifications.
The warp sheet normally contracts from 2 to 15 percent in width from reed to the cloth. This contraction is due to interlacement of warp and weft.
This contraction need to be avoided temporarily because otherwise:
1. There is a possiblity of damage to the warp ends near the selvedge due to abrasion with reed dents.
2. There is a possibility of reed dents getting themselves distorted.
3. There will always be a tension in the beat-up zone.
The temples are used to hold fast the width of the woven cloth as equal to as possible to the width of the warp.
Types of Temples
1. Ring Temples
In ring temples the rings are usually at an angle of 12 deg to 21 deg and the angle reduces in steps of 3 deg towards the centre of the cloth.
As a thumb rule the lenght of the pints should be about one and a half times to two times the cloth thickness. The pins exert their pull on the warp.
Also the greater the tube diameter the greater the wrap of the cloth on the temple tube.
The length of the temple tube depends upon the cloth width. A rule of thumb is one ring for 10 cm fabric.
For delicate cloth, pinned rings are used only in the cloth selvedge zone. The inner rings are substituted by textured surface rubber, plastic or bras rings.
2. Roller Temples
The roller temples usually have two rollers supported at both ends which guide the fabric in the warp directions by means of raised points. The rollers are usually of steel and are covered with rubber or plastics.
Ring and roller temples hold the fabric in the selvedge zones only and stretches the fabric outwards.
These temples have the disadvantage that the pressure of the beat-up of the reed against the fabric is transmitted to the next guiding point of the fabric, which is the breast beam. This point is several inches from the fell of the cloth and therefore extensive tension is required for the beat-up. The tension causes breakages of the warp yarns.
Another disadvantage of this group of temples is the presence of different lengths of the fabric from the fell of the cloth to the breast beam, caused by the looping of the fabric around the temple cylinders. This causes a deformation of the straightness of the weft and therefore of the design. In extreme cases it creates waviness of the selvedges.
3. Full Width Temples
The other group consists of full-width temples.
The full width temples hold the fabric across its full width under uniform tension. The advantages of using full width temples are that weaving can be done at lower warp tension. One more advantage is less stress for the ends, resulting in less ends breakage.There are no temple ring marks. A higher weft density is possible. There is a straight weft insertion over the whole width. Also less maintenance is required.
However the full-width temples cannot avoid a contraction of the fabrics weft wise. By reason of this contraction, the warp ends in the selvedges do not pass at straight angle through the weaving reed. This causes extensive friction between yarn and reed and can lead yarn breakages.
