Terry Towel Calculations-1

Assumptions

Number of Ground Warp Ends = 694
Ground Warp Count = 25 tex x 2
Warp Crimp = 8%
Weft Yarn count = 34 tex
Number of Pile Warp Ends = 576
Length of pile part = 102 cm
Pile Ratio (for pile height)= 52:10 (52 cm of pile warp for 10 cm of cloth)
Pile Yarn count = 30 tex x 2
Length of plain part = 4 cm
Picks per cm = 20
Reed Width = 58.4 cm
Grey Length ( Pile and Plain Part) = 106 cm
Fringe Length = 2 cm

How to Determine the Weight of a ground Warp for Terry Towel

Weight of Ground Warp = Weight of ground warp in grey cloth + weight of ground warp in the fringe.

Weight of ground warp in grey cloth = (length of grey cloth x warp crimp factor x no of ground warp threads x warp yarn count in tex )/ (100 x 1000)
= (106 x 1.08 x 694 x 25 x 2)/(100 x 1000)
= 397.25 gms

Weight of Ground Warp in Fringe (here the warp crimp is not involved) = (Fringe length x no of ground warp x yarn count in tex)/ (100x 1000)
= (2 x 694 x 25 x 2)/ (100 x 1000) = 0.69 gms

So Ground Warp Weight = 397.25 +.69 = 397.94 grams.

Continued in Terry Calculations-2

Loom Temples

Temples

The warp sheet normally contracts from 2 to 15 percent in width from reed to the cloth. This contraction is due to interlacement of warp and weft.

This contraction need to be avoided temporarily because otherwise:

1. There is a possiblity of damage to the warp ends near the selvedge due to abrasion with reed dents.

2. There is a possibility of reed dents getting themselves distorted.

3. There will always be a tension in the beat-up zone.

The temples are used to hold fast the width of the woven cloth as equal to as possible to the width of the warp.

Types of Temples

1. Ring Temples

In ring temples the rings are usually at an angle of 12 deg to 21 deg and the angle reduces in steps of 3 deg towards the centre of the cloth.

As a thumb rule the lenght of the pints should be about one and a half times to two times the cloth thickness. The pins exert their pull on the warp.

Also the greater the tube diameter the greater the wrap of the cloth on the temple tube.

The length of the temple tube depends upon the cloth width. A rule of thumb is one ring for 10 cm fabric.

For delicate cloth, pinned rings are used only in the cloth selvedge zone. The inner rings are substituted by textured surface rubber, plastic or bras rings.


2. Roller Temples

The roller temples usually have two rollers supported at both ends which guide the fabric in the warp directions by means of raised points. The rollers are usually of steel and are covered with rubber or plastics.


Ring and roller temples hold the fabric in the selvedge zones only and stretches the fabric outwards.

These temples have the disadvantage that the pressure of the beat-up of the reed against the fabric is transmitted to the next guiding point of the fabric, which is the breast beam. This point is several inches from the fell of the cloth and therefore extensive tension is required for the beat-up. The tension causes breakages of the warp yarns.

Another disadvantage of this group of temples is the presence of different lengths of the fabric from the fell of the cloth to the breast beam, caused by the looping of the fabric around the temple cylinders. This causes a deformation of the straightness of the weft and therefore of the design. In extreme cases it creates waviness of the selvedges.

3. Full Width Temples

The other group consists of full-width temples.

The full width temples hold the fabric across its full width under uniform tension. The advantages of using full width temples are that weaving can be done at lower warp tension. One more advantage is less stress for the ends, resulting in less ends breakage.There are no temple ring marks. A higher weft density is possible. There is a straight weft insertion over the whole width. Also less maintenance is required.

However the full-width temples cannot avoid a contraction of the fabrics weft wise. By reason of this contraction, the warp ends in the selvedges do not pass at straight angle through the weaving reed. This causes extensive friction between yarn and reed and can lead yarn breakages.

Denim Silk- Challenges in Production and Marketing

Silk denim, developed in India by CSTRI seems to have a lot of potential. With the market of denim in India growing by leaps and bounds, denim silk will give that niche in the minds of customer that can make a company profitable.

There are however lots of challenges that denim jeans made of silk will face in the market. First there is a problem/question of its production viability. Then there will be a question of its wearing performace.

Then of course care of this fabric will be a major challange. Even if this is overcome, cost will be a deciding factor in this recession hit economy. And of course, there will be always a challenge to fight from the spurious fabrics.

Lets talk about parameters. The warp in silk is made from 20/22 denier 6 and 12 ply organzine twisted(Organzine is a thread made by giving the raw-silk thread a preliminary twist in one direction and then twisting many of these threads together in the opposite direction at the rate of about 4 turns/cm ) mulberry silk fiber or eri silk of 2/60s, 2/80s and 2/120s is used. In weft 6 and 12 ply tram twisted (Tram is made by twisting in only one direction two or more raw-silk threads, with 8 to 12 turns/cm). Mulberry silk and eri silk of 2/60s, 2/80s and 2/12s greige yarn is used. All this is OK, the only concern is the avaliability of these fibers. It is then made on rapier looms with 44" width and 3/1 twill weighing 100-300 gsm. The only questions are the production challenges while handling such delicate fibers.

Functionally, twill weaves in silk are prone to slippage of yarn, particulary if two different fibers are used in warp and weft.which might affect the tear strength and seam slippage.

Also the faded look of denim comes from Indigo dye, which is a vat dye, and which is faded differentially as the denim is washed. In Silk Denim, Indigo colored acid dyes are used, which dont fade at all. This will maintain the consistency of shade for years, but surely will take away the joy of fading that is obtained with cotton denim.

Then of course there are issues for the care and maintainenace of these fabrics. These must be dry cleaned and taken care of properly. Also eri silk denim will behave like wool and more suitable in winter.

The biggest issue of all is the cost. Due to limited supply, the quality silk denim would be much much costlier than the normal indigo cotton denim.

Thus all the discussion above will point out to the a very specific market for silk denims. Target audience would be upper class young females in the age group of 25-40. It would be better if the bottoms were to sold with the matching printed or plain silk tops. It would be further beneficial for a marketer if the word 'denim' is taken out of this fabric, as customer will erroneously compare the properties of indigo denim with this fabric. Some surface emballishments can be done like printing or embroidery on these garments.

http://www.galenfrysinger.com/shanghai_china_silk.htm
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/11/1014/silk-denim1.asp

And then have a look at this.

News about Silk from India

Banarasi Saree to Receive GI registration

The Banaras Bunkar Samiti, an organisation of Banarasi handloom weavers and eight other organisations are making efforts to receive the IPR to the silk brocade and Banarasi saree.
The GI acts as a certification that the product possesses certain qualities, or enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.

Banana Shirts

Weavers of Anakaputhur, about 20 kms from Chennai have brought in this new product with technical support from the National Research Centre for Banana ( NRCB) Trichi.
At Rs. 450 a piece, such shirts keep the body cool. Banana fiber after processing, is odorless and can be dyed in any color. The shirts don't shrink, fade and keep the stiffness even without starch. However, a blend of 60% cotton with this fiber given maximum durability. Banana fiber is also cost effective with 40/- a kg and can yield two 100% banana shirts.
Other suppliers of banana fiber can be found here.