Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Sunday, 3 May 2009
Common Yarn Faults in Manmade Fibres
Common Yarn Faults in manmade fibres
1. Slubs:
Slub like thick faults seriously mar the appearance of fabrics made from manmade fibres. The following measures can be taken
A. In Blends with cotton
a. properly select the cotton component
b. ensure proper grinding of wirepoints at cards
c. regularly check the ringframe drafting system.
B. In 100% manmade fibres
a. Ensure adequate number of doublings
b. avoid too wide a roller setting and inadequate weighting on rollers.
c. Select correctly the fibres in regard to their compatibility in length.
2. Crackers
This defect is characterised by the cracking sound produced when the yarn is pulled. The sound is produced due to sudden rupture of fibres curled around the yarn.
- Crackers are caused mainly by the presence of very long fibres due to improper cutting of the two.
- They can also be caused due to high vairability in the elongation of the constituent fibres in the blend.
- Ensure wider roller setting in the back zone, adequate roller weighting and avoid too narrow a spacing between the aprons.
- It is helpful to have low roving twist and higher spinning tension through the use of heavier traveller.
3. Neps
This can also mar the appearance of a fabric
- In man made fibres longer and finer fibres tend to produce more neps.
- Other reasons of neps are
- Excessing beating of fibres in the blow room
- Loading of licker-in or cylinder at card
- Blunt wire points on various carding elements
- excessive lap weight
4. Fluffy Yarn
In general presence of short fibres and proneness to static accumulation tend to produce this defect.
The fault can be corrected by maintaining proper atmospheric conditions and reducing the fluff on roving.
5. Smoky Yarn
- The yarn containing synthetic fibres get smoky through long exposure of the running bobbin in a dirty atmosphere in the ring spinning system.
- Installation of smoke filters in H-plant can correct the problem
- Use of roving build can check this defect.
Friday, 1 May 2009
Monday, 27 April 2009
Tsudakoma ZAX- Settings for standard Denim
Tsudakoma-ZAX Loom Settings for 14.5 Oz/Sq yd OE/OE Denim (EPI x PPI = 64 x 37) count (6s x 7s)
Back Rest- 125 mm (vertical)
-16th mark ( horizontal)
Dropper Box- 100 mm (vertical)
- 50 mm (vertical)
Shedding Amount
1st Frame- 99 mm
2nd Frame-91mm
3rd Frame- 83 mm
4th Frame- 75 mm
Heald Frame Height:
1st Frame - 43 mm
2nd Frame-41mm
3rd Frame-39mm
4th Frame- 37mm
Shed Crossing Timing- 290 deg
Leno Crossing Timing- 290 deg ( LH Side), 0 deg ( RH side)
Temple- 15 rings- Medium Type
Sub Nozzle angle- 4 deg
Sub nozzle height- 3rd Mark
Machine Pulley- 220 mm
Motor Pulley- 113 mm for 760 rpm
iboard Settings
Tension- 280 kgf
Upper Limit- 560 kgf
Lower Limit- 0 kgf
Pick Density- 37 pick
Turns/Pick- 4
Arrvial setting - 240 deg
Filling insertion timing- 80 deg
No. of Sub groups- 5
Timing
Feeler H1- 200 deg to 290 deg
H2- 200 deg to 310 deg
Forward- 350 deg
Rev (others)- 180 deg/320 d eg
(Filling)- 290 deg
WBS- 240deg-300deg
SENSOR/TROUBLE
Dropper Setting: 10 th Volume
Sensor- on
Feeler-on
Timing
Pin: 50deg-200 deg
Main: 50deg-200deg
AUX Main: 60deg-100deg
80deg
Auxiliary Nozzle- 76 deg-176 deg
1st Pick- 86 deg
Sub Nozzle
64deg-170 deg
100deg-190deg
130deg-220deg
150deg-230deg
170deg-250deg
Stretch Nozzle- 200deg-300deg
STOP MARK Data
1. F Kick ( Filling) - 0 upto 7 steps
2. F Kick (Others)- 0 upto 7 steps
3. R Kick ( Filling)- 0 upto 7 steps
4. R Kick (Others) - 0 upto 7 steps
5. Kick Back Speed- 1. Low 2, Medium 3, High On
6. Kickback order- on 1
1. Rev to Forward
2. Forward to Rev
7. Down time- 5 min
8. Fell Control-8
9. Dia Comp-48
10. Let Off Avg-2
11. F-Gain-0
12. R.Gain- 0
13. Gain -1
1. Low
2. Medium
3. High
14. Rush Torque- 1200%
15. change Picks-2
16. Change timing- 30 deg
17. 1 pick insertion- On
18. Autolevelling- On
Saturday, 25 April 2009
Critical Process Parameters- Denim Manufacturing
Critical Process Parameters- Denim Manufacturing
Warping:
Machine Speed m/min= 600+-50
Tension on individual thread ( cN) 90+-30
Warping breaks ( Avg/10000m/400 ends) < = 0.2
Dyeing-cum-Sizing
1. Machine Speed = 30+-2
2. Size Viscosity ( Flow seconds) = 6+-1
3. Size Add on ( %)= 6+-2
4. Breaking Force (gf) sized yarn = >=1100
5. Tenacity ( cN/tex) ( sized yarn) = >13
6. Elongation ( %) of sized yarn >= 4.5
Finishing
| Quality | 7 x 6 | 7 x 6 | 7 x 7 | 7 x 9 | 7 x 6 |
| Width(cm) | 151+-1 | 149+-1 | 151+-1 | 151+-1 | 151+-1 |
| Shrinkage ( %) | 15+-1 | 14.5+-1 | 15.5+-1 | 16+-1 | 14+-1 |
| Skew ( %) | 5-11 | 5-11 | 5-11 | 5-11 | 5-11 |
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