Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Monday, 19 May 2008
Indigo Calculations
For 12 ropes, at 24 m/min, of 344 ends of 14000 m length of 7s count.
wt of yarn = (12*344*14000*100*453.6)/(7*840*36*2.54*1000) kg= 5000 kg
at 24 m/min, a lot of 14000 m will be completed in 14000/24 = 583.3 min
at 1.8% shade
100 kg of yarn needs--> 1.8 kg of Indigo
5000 kg of yarn needs --> 90 kg of dye
at 100 gpl
100 gms of dye = 1 lit of solution
90 kg of dye = 900 litres
900 litres should be completed in 583.3 min
1 litre would be completed in = 583.3/900= 38.8 seconds
so flow rate will be 38.8 seconds / litre
Similarly flow rate of caustic and hydro can be determined
Hydro is taken around 100 gpl
caustic is taken around 90 to 100 gpl
Process Control of Rope Dyeing for denim
1. Concentration of Hydrosulphite
It is measured by vatometer. It should be from 1.5 gpl to 2.5gpl , or by redox potential of dye bath which should be from -730 mV to -860 mV.
2. Caustic Soda or pH value
Should be from 11.5-12.5
3. Dye concentration in Dye bath
it is measured by spectrophotometer. It should be in g/l
Guidelines
High Indigo Concentration --> Shade is greener and lighter
Low Indigo Concentration --> Shade is dull and Red.
High pH or Caustic Concentration --> Redder and lighter
Low pH or caustic concentration --> greener and darker
Dipping Time
Longer the dipping time, better will be the penetration and lesser will be the ring dyeing effect. It varies from 15-22 seconds.
Squeeze Pressure
High pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in lesser color and better penetration. At rope dyeing, squeeze pressure is 5-10 tonnes, ie. wet pick up is as low as 60%. Hardness of squeeze roller is about 70-75 deg. shores. It sqeeze rolls are too hard then there are chances of slippage and uneven yarn tension.. If squeeze rollers are too soft then shading will occur. Surface of the squeeze rolls should be ground twice a year.
Airing Time
It should be 60-75 seconds. Longer airing time results in high tension on the yarn and subsequent processes will become difficult.
Drying
Insufficient or unevenly dried yarns will result in poor rebeaming
Calculation of Replenishing Dye feed/min
Conc. of stock vat is g/l= 90
range speed in yards/min=25
count = 7s
totoal ends = 4100
Wt of yarn dyed /min= (4100*25*1000)/(7*840*202)= 7924 gms
shade desired = 2%
Amount of dye to be replenished/min= 158.5 gms
Effect of pH
At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more monophenolate ions, which lead to higher color yield, as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down activities will be very good.
At pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash down characteristics are also poor.
Testing
1. Alkalanity in Dye Bath Liquor
Pipet 10.0 ml of vat liquor into 100ml of distilled water in a 150 ml beaker. place under continuous agitation and insert the electrodes of a pH meter caliberated at pH 7.0 with standard buffer solution.
Titrate with tenth normal HCl ( 0.1 HCl) to pH 7.0 (ml = A)
calculate
g/l of NaOH = A *0.40
2. Hydro in Dye bath Liquor
Add 2 ml of 37% HCHO to 150 ml beaker. Add 2 ml of dye range liquor . Add 6 ml of 25% glacial acetic acid solution prepared by diluting 1 part acid with 3 parts water. Add 2 ml of starch/KI indicator. Add ml of water. Titrate with 0.046 N ( prepared by diluting 460 ml of 0.1 N Iodine to one liter ) solution until the color changes from emarald green to bluish purple.
G/l of hydro= mo fo 0.046N of Iodine
Importance of High Concentration of Free Hydrosulphite
The clearest shades with minimum reddish streaks are observed at by relatively high conc. of hydrosulphite. On the other side, with lack of hydrosulphite, the leuco indigo is less dissolved and thereby adheres to a greater extent to the fibres. With lack of hydrosulphite furthermore, the amount of unreduced dyestuff by oxidation at the upper level of the liquor and through activiation of unfixed dyestuff, gets separated from the fibrous material would constantly rise as the reducing agent for creating leucoform would be missing. Under these circumstances a reddish bronze like shade results due to dispersion of not reduced dyestuff in the yarn. The min. proportion of hydrosulphite should be around 1.3 to 1.5 gpl in case of rope dyeing and 3-4 gpl in case of sheet dyeing. Also to avoid the lack of hydrosulphite or Indigo at certain places in the immersion, vat, the whole quantity of the liquor should be circulated 2-3 times every hour.
Reaction Time
At very short reaction time, an adequate liquor exchange ( i.e. the amount of chemicals consumed and replaced by fresh addition of reduced indigo) is not assured. This has a negative influence on dyeing and depth of dye penetration. In addition to this the time available for diffusion of dyestuff until oxidation commences is too short. To ensure an even and good depth of dye penetration by dyeing in several passages, the reaction time should be 20-30 sec. for each vat (eg. at a speed of 20m/min for a reaciton time of 10 seconds, the immersion path should be maximum 3.3 meters).
A reaction time exceeding 60 seconds should be avoided as the amount of dyestuff again get reduced and released may again supersede that of additionally take up dye stuff, resulting in higher shades.
Softening Agent: 8 g/lit
Drying: Rest humidity should be 30% and then sized.
Addition of chemicals
1. Red Tinge: reduce addition of NaOH, increase slightly Na2S2O3
2. Darkish Red: increase Hydro
3. Light Greenish: decrease Hydro
4. Dark Green: Increase Caustic
For further information you can read this article
Saturday, 17 May 2008
Notes on Yarn for Rope Dyeing in Denim
Notes on Yarn for Rope Dyeing
* Yarn faces stress and stretch at ball warping, rope dyeing, rebeaming, sizing and loom shed so elongation of yarn should be more than stretch at (ball warping + Robe Dyeing+ Rebeaming + Sizing )= (2-3%) + Loom shed (about 5%)
* Tension at Ball warping should be less by 7-8% of single yarn strength.
* Strength CV should be within limits as it may give rise to weak points
* The tendency of yarn to migrate at rope dyeing can be countered by less micronaire of yarn ( should be around 3.8-4.2)
* More dropping of short fibers at long chain beaming is good
*The sensitivity settings for neps is set at +280 for rotor spun yarn and not +200 as in case of ring spun yarn. The reason for this is that the structure of rotor spun yarn is intrinsically different from that of conventional ring spun yarn. Neps in rotor yarn tend to be spun into the solid yarn body rather than remaining on the yarn surface, which is typical of ring spun yarns. Although embedded in the yarn core, these neps still represent a short mass defect and will therefore trigger the imperfection counter upon exceeding the preset value. However, compared to neps that are attached to the yarn surface, fully embedded neps are barely perceptible for the human eye. Thus, in order to balance the typical visual appearance of rotor spun yarn with the imperfection counts, +280 sensitivity setting is a common convention for rotor spun yarns.