Textile Testing Videos

Here are some of the videos on Testing of various textile properties. Please click the grey rectangle at the bottom of the video ( on right hand side) to see the total playlist.

In this playlist I have included the following videos:

1. Garment Seam Slippage
2.  Fabric Shrinkage
3. Fabric Yarn Count
4. Fabric Abrasion Resistance
5. Fabric Tensile Strength
6. Fabric Tear Strength
7. Fiber Strength Cotton




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How to instantly determine reed and picks per inch

When checking the fabrics like cotton sheeting, poplin, cambric, voile, lining and mull, it is often required that the reed and picks per inch are determined quickly. One way is to use the pick glass. However, it is inconvenient and taxing to count each and every thread. The other solution is the use of densimeter or lunometer.

Principle of Densimeter

The densimeter is based on the principle that when very fine grids are placed one over the other than particular patterns are observed. In this case there are grating lines etched over the artificial glass. The density of grading lines go on increasing from left to right and is marked. When this grating is placed over the fabric, a point in the grating indicates a particular pattern when the density of grating matched with that of fabric. The position of this particular pattern is observed and the value of density is read from the grating.

Usefulness in Textile Testing

Densimeter can be used in atleast three ways

1. To measure the EPI and PPI of threads in the fabric

This works best when the fabric is grey and white. For dark and knitted fabric, the light source should be beneath the surface of the fabric in order to read patterns.

2. To measure the irregularity in the fabric

Presence of broken pattern of interference lines indicate variation in pick counts, differences in yarn count or color faults.

3. For measuring the shrinkage in the fabric

Instead of measuring the shrinkage in the fabric by marking, it is always better to check the number of threads at various position of the sample before and after the washing. This is particularly useful when shrinkage is checked in the made up garments.

How to use it

1.Place the sample on a flat surface. Put the densimeter above it.

2.Rotate the densimeter until a pattern develops as the lines on the densimeter interact with the lines formed by the threads.

3.Depending on how the densimeter is oriented,  the "Point" of the pattern will be pointing to a number on either the Lines per Inch scale or the Lines per Centimeter scale. The number on the scale indicates the thread or line count.

Source

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Factors influencing the cost of Processing

A very good treatment of the topic is given in this article

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Images of Corduroy, canvas, denim and twill fabrics

Please see this site

 

Powerloom Mechanisms-1

Some very nice Videos from NCUTE are available on You tube. A few of them are given below:

 1. Loose Reed Mechanism

 


 2. Modern Jacquard

 

 3. Terry Pile Mechanism

 

 4. Beat up Mechanism

 

5. Drop Box Mechanism

 


 6. Positive Tappet Mechanism

 

 7. Worm Wheel Take up Mechanism

 

 8. Mechanism of Counter Shaft

 

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Bijnor Textile Cluster- Afterthoughts

Visit to Bijnor cluster was enchanting. Situated on the banks of Ganges, I could see the prosperity of powerloom owners in the villages of Sedha, Nahtor and Chandpur. Equally disturbing is the struggle that handloom weavers are facing in Kiwar. A lot needs to be done to improve the condition of that village.

Khadi is made in the village of Peruwala and the looms are pitlooms as compared to Sedha where frame handlooms are used. It was heartening to see a full-fledged reactive dyeing plant in full operation in Nahtore. Could see fabric from Seersucker to lightweight Denim being made on the powerloom.The houses are still of the older generation, having timber roofs with lots of alcoves and thick walls. Out side it was mustard and Sugarcane fields that greeted us everywhere we went. Fresh Gur was being made in the way and its soft aroma was filling our nostrils. Also elections are round the corner, so saw many congregration and announcements. Good to see conditions of roads in general.

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Getting Bright Red Color in Vat Dyes

One solution proposed is to mix Brown R and Red 6B.

http://dimachema1.en.made-in-china.com

Brown R chemically has an excellent wash fastness and dry rubbing fastness of 4 and light 6-7. However, its color fastness to rubbing in wet is only 3.  Source

Red 6B chemically also has an excellent wash fastness of 4. However its dry rubbing is only 3-4 and wet rubbing is only 3.  Source

Thus it is difficult to obtain the good rubbing fastness in this combination of dyes.


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Twist in Silk

Silk yarn is classified in several ways based on the twist. A some of them are as follows:

Raw Silk

In this the silk is produced by reeling together baves of several cocoons. It has no twist.

Poil Yarn

A silk yarn produced by twisting raw silk. The twist may be slight or exceed 3000 per meter.

Tram Silk

To make a tram yarn, two or more raw silk threads are doubled and twisted slightly. Generally the twist is about 80 to 180 TPM ( Turns per meter)

Crepe

This yarn is made by doubling several raw silk threads and twisting them to very high levels in the range of 2000 to 4000 TPM.

Organzine

This silk yarn is formed by doubling two or more poil yarn and throwing them in a direction opposite to that of the individual yarn. The twist in the poil yarn will be about 700 TPM ‘Z’ and the doubled yarn will have about 950 TPM ‘S’.

http://www.habutextiles.com

Steaming of Twisted Yarn

The twisted yarn has to be subjected to steaming in an autoclave. This process fixes the twist in the thread. Duration of steaming depends upon the depth of layers of threads in the bobbin and twist levels of the thread. Ten minutes is usually sufficient for organza while more highly twisted crepe require considerably more time of about 2 hours. 

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Waste Products of Mulberrry and Tussar Silk

Mulberry Silk

-          Spun Yarn: Matka, Handspun- Spun by Takli, Milspun- By Mill process

-          Waste yarn: Dupion

-          Short fiber in spun: Noil

Tussar Silk

-          Spun Yarn: Muga: Milspun

-          Waste Yarn: Ghicha

-          Inside yarn: Katiya

Spun Silk Production

Spun Silk takes the following process route:

1. Degumming the silk waste: It is done in degumming vats.
2. Dryers for drying the degumming material.
3. Openers for opening the fibres.
4. Fillers for opening and cleaning the material.
5. Dressing machine is used for combing the materials neps and remove the foreign materials, neps and short fibre and make a lap with average steple length.
6. Spreader : To further make the fibers parallel. Set frames for obtaining sliver.
7. Draw frame is used for making the Sliver with fibres more perfectly paralised, blending also can be done by this machine.
8. Roving machine for making roving (standard of thread with little twist from silver).
9. Ring frame is used for making the spun yarn from roving and insert sufficient twist for strength and wind in a bobbin.
10. Winding & doubling machine are used for two or three fold commercial yarn.
11. Gassing is done for removing the protruding fibres by passing the yarn through the flame at a speed 500-600 mts/min.
12. Reeling to make standard sized hank.
13. Bundling & Balling : First make a bundle and bale for disposal of the material.

The size of spun silk thread is defined in a similar manner to standards used for cotton yarn. For cotton, the term "2/60s"signifies a two-ply yarn consisting of two single strands twisted together, each having a yearn count of 60.

In the case of spun silk the notation has a different meaning. For example, for 60/2 two yearns with a separate yarn count of 120 have been doubled, producing a ply yarn with a new count of 60. (Source)

Spinning of Tussar

 Tassar silk waste is degummed by boiling in a pressurised tank with soap and soda for 30 min and treated with sodium sulphite for partial bleaching. However, to remove gummy matter completely, the material is subsequently kept in a soap and soda solution in a large wooden tank for 3-4 days. After degumming the material is fresh water, hydro extracted and subsequently dried in hot air chambers. The degummed tassar waste is then processed through a series of operations which includes opening, filling, dressing or combing, spreading, drawing, gill roving, spinning and gassing. Mill spun tassar yarn in the range of 60-210s (metric count) can be produced. The yarn is then doubled and twisted according to the required specifications.(Source)

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