Tuesday, 8 April 2014

Value Chain Analysis of Bomkai Sarees, Orissa


1. The tie-dye weaving in Orissa came into existence during mid of 14th century when 100 weaver's families were brought from Raipur area of M.P. by the then ruler of Patnagarh Shri Ramai Dev. The weavers later on titled as Meher and their caste known as Bhulia.

2. The Bomkai Designs are the traditional designs in production in the village named Bomkai in Ganjam District of Orissa. Latter on it is introduced in Sonepur.

3. Silk yarn was introduced in 1980s. The body part of silk fabric was woven with silk yarns and Anchal by cotton tie and dye. The Bomkai design were developed in late 80s and introduced in early 90s.

4. There are three different patterns of production:

a. The independent weaver purchases yarns and other essential raw material on his own money, weaves clothes and sells the produce on his own either in the open market or to the traders and middleman.

b. The master weaver advance yarn and raw materials to the weavers and pay wages to them on receipt of woven cloth.

c. Instead of master weaver, there are cooperatives who do this function.

5. Both the warp and weft are dyed by this process in accordance with the requirement of the design. For border design the warp alone is processed. For Palavas or Anchals of the sari, the weft is processed (now jala designs are also preferred) and for the overall body designs both the warp and weft is processed.

6. The weavers make warp for two pieces of sarees at a time of 6.5 meters each.

7. Poor Dyeing: colour fastness is the major problem in cotton sari if exposed to sun or continuous hand washing. It was found that in cotton sari, the boarder and anchal portion fade while the body colour of the sari is intact. Colour bleeding is the major problem with silk sari.

8. Value Chain Analysis of Silk and Cotton Bomkai Sarees

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