Sunday, 6 April 2014

Chanderi Saris - Value Chain Analysis and a discussion on Flaws

The following material is derived from this source:

1. Chanderi is originally produced with three kinds of fiber mix:

a. Pure Silk: Here the warp and weft both are woven with 13/15 denier silk
b. Chanderi Cotton: Where the warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton.
c. Silk Cotton: The 13/15 denier warp is combined with 100s or 120s cotton

The figured effects are produced with the help of extra weft.

The difference between Chanderi and Varanasi products are while chanderi uses 13/15 denier, Varanasi weave uses 20/22 denier. Now chanderi saris also use 20/22 denier silk.

The looms are the old pit looms situated in dimly lighted sheds where the whole family lives, cooks, weaves and sleeps.

Silk is generally bought in grey hanks to be dyed locally. On the other hand 80% of the cotton is bought dyed from South India and Mumbai by local merchants.

Cotton and Silk yarn is obtained from Bangalore and zari is obtained from Ahmedabad.

Production Process

Time Estimates

1. Min quantity of Silk yarn for dyeing is 25 kg or 10 hanks. It takes about 45-60 minutes depending upon the color.

2. Warping - yarn for warp to wind around a wooden drum. A warper would wind 4-5 warps of 12 sarees each.

3. Drawing in- It takes about 3-4 days per warp

4. Setting of the Jala for design of border and Pallu: 3-4 days depending upon the complexity.

5. The chanderi fabic doesn't require any postloom process and cut off from the loom and cut and sold.

Value Chain Analysis

The following is the value addition  in percentage, at each stage of the Sari making:

1. Dyeing: 2
2. Warping: 2
3. Filling of Reed with Yarn: 7
4. Design Preparation: 2
5. Joining of yarn for the new lot: 2
6. Border design Makers: 0.5
7. Motif Design Makers: 0.5
8. Weaving: 30
9. Master Weaver/Cooperative Societies:provides raw material, design and marketing:  54

"There is a problem of colour-run with the fabrics produced in the cluster. Especially the problem in
silk related dyeing is on account of de-gumming. The Chanderi fabric derives its distinctiveness
from the material gums and in order to retain that the fabric cannot be dyed at high temperatures. "

Also "The temperature is approximately measured by hand. As there is no thermometer in use or a stove
with temperature control. The quantity of color, the time for which the hank is soaked, all these
factors lend an element of variation in dyeing. This particularly has an adverse bearing when more
then one hank has to be dyed in the same color".

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