Saturday, 28 February 2009
Stitched seams are divided into eight classes according to the type and minimum number of components within the seam.
These components which can be the main fabrics of the garment or some additional items such as a lace etc, are termed as being of 'limited' or 'unlimited' width.
where a component is referred to as being limited on one side, that side might be the cut edge of the garment piece that is being seamed.
Where a component is referred to as being unlimited on one side, that edge might be the far edge of the garment panel irrelevent to the seam under consideration.( Figure-1)
Class-I (Superimposed Seams)
It is produced with a minimum of two components both limited on the same side. A variation of the superimposed seam is the french seam.
Class-II ( Lapped Seam)
Seams in this class are produced with a minimum of two components but with these, one is limited on one side and the second is limited on the other side. The components are opposite and at different levels and overlap each other.
Class -III ( Bound Seams)
In this class, seams are produced with a minimum of two components , one is limited to one side with the second is limited on both sides.
Class-iV (Flat Stitching)
In this class, seams are produced with a minimum of two components of which one is limited on one side and the second on the other. The two components are opposite and on the same level. These seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges do not overlap. They may be butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needles sewing into each fabric.
Class-V (Decorative Stitching)
Seams in this class are produced with a minimum of two components unlimited on two sides. Any other component is either limited on one side or limited on two sides.
Class-VI (Edge Neating)
It is produced with only one component limited on one side (either on the right or the left). Seam types in this class include those where fabric edges are neated by means of stitches as well as folded hems and edges.