All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees

These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:

1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.  

1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari

This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nylon to make the final product. Used in the lowest qualities of Varanasi sarees specially in Dupions. Normally price is about 250 to 300 Rs. per mark. 

2. German Silver Zari

This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark. 

3. German Silk Fast Zari

This is generally used in the medium price Kanjivaram Sarees. Generally the denier is about 30. Here the core is pure silk, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 1200 Rs. per mark. 

4. Half Fine Zari

This is generally used in the premium Kanjivaram Sarees. The gold content is about 0.01% (1gm) to 0.02%(2gm) per kg of copper. The Silk yarn is used in the core. The price is between 1800 -2200 Rs.  per mark. 

5. Pure Zari

It is made only on order Silk yarn is used as core, over that silver and than plated with gold. In one of the test reports, the following were the results: Gold 0.13, Silver: 18.42 and copper 56.61. 

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How to Test for Pure Zari in Kanjivaram and other Sarees

A few testing laboratories in Kanchipuram provide this service. This is what this portal has to say about the testing method:

In order to build the confidence and credibility among the customers and in the industry about the quality of zari in silk fabrics, testing is very important and much required.  Hitherto, for testing metal contents in zari, destructive method of testing has been carried out.  Now, the testing of zari samples and zari made fabric are carried out by Non-destructive testing (XRF Analyser), which is a unique one.  The technical know-how of the project was jointly developed by Technology Information, Forecasting and Assessment Councils (TIFAC) and Tamil Nadu Zari with the guidance of the Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research (IGCAR, Kalpakkam).

The Zari is sold in terms of MARC.  Weight of one marc is 242 grams.  The composition of the marc is indicated below: -

                              SILVER     55        to     57%

                              SILK         22         to     24%

                              GOLD    0.59        to   0.60%

                              COPPER   20        to     22%

RAW MATERIALS

The required raw materials for the production of the gold zari are:-

Ø      Silver wire        -  76 to 77%

Ø      Silk                   -   13 X 15 denier

Ø      Gold                 -   24 carat.

The information below talks about the XRF technique

Source    

XRF (X-ray fluorescence) is a non-destructive analytical technique used to determine the elemental composition of materials. XRF analyzers determine the chemistry of a sample by measuring the fluorescent (or secondary) X-ray emitted from a sample when it is excited by a primary X-ray source. Each of the elements present in a sample produces a set of characteristic fluorescent X-rays (“a fingerprint”) that is unique for that specific element, which is why XRF spectroscopy is an excellent technology for qualitative and quantitative analysis of material composition.

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What is Single, 1.5, double warp in Kanjivaram Sarees

1. Kanjivaram Sarees Use 20-22 denier 3 ply filaments. 

2. Single warp means 100 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a single warp is 4900. 

3. 1.5 warp means 150 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 1.5 inches warp is 7350. 

4. Double warp means 200 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 2 inches warp is 9800. 

5. Generally, the number of picks are more for single warp, then for 1.5 warp or double warp. 

6. Generally 72, 74, 76 PPi is used. 

Minimum Width of Handloom and Power loom Sarees in Salem

	Handloom	Powerloom
Single Warp	46-47.5	44-46
1.5 Warps	46-47.5	44.5-46
2 Warps	46.47.5	45-46

 

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What are the Various Wild Silk Yarns

Source

1. Reeled Tussar/ Tussar Raw Silk: It is reeled from Tussar cocoons using different appliance. Reeled Tussar is finer in nature.
   
   
2. TussarGicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of Tussar cocoons without any twist.
   
   
3. Tussar Katia: Yarn spun out of Tussar waste after opening and cleaning.
   
   
4. Tussar Jhuri: Yarn spun out of uncleaned Tussar waste without subjecting it to opening and cleaning process.
   
   
5. Balkal yarn: Yarn spun out of Tussar cocoon peduncles, after boiling in alkaline solution and opened up.
   
   
6. Tussar Spun Silk: Yarn spun in the mill out of Tussar silk waste.
   
   
7. Muga Raw Silk: Yarn reeled from Muga cocoons.
   
   
8. Muga Gicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of muga cocoons without any twist.
   
   
9. Hand Spun Endi/ Eri Silk: Yarn spun by hand appliances from Eri cocoons.
   
   
10. Mill Spun Eri Yarn: Yarn spun in the mill from Eri cocoons.

You can find here the various wild silk fabrics and how to take care of silk.