Art Inspiration in Textile Design

Textile Design - specially printing has its influence on major art movements in the west. It would be worthwhile to understand the movements and to recognise them so that an appreciation of existing prints and designs can be taken. Here is a brief account of the movements.

Abstract Expressionism

Freely Created Abstractions

Impressionism

Strokes of unmixed colors to give impression of reflected light.

Pop Art

It imitated the techniques of commercial art and the styles of popular culture and mass media.

Pointillism

Technique of painting with tiny dots of pure colors that would blend in the users' eyes.

Art Deco

It is marked by stylised forms and geometric designs

Art Nouveau

It is characterised by stylized natural forms and sinous outlines of objects such as leaves, vines and flowers.

Constructivism

Industrial materials were used to construct non representational objects.

Cubism

Features surfaces of geometric planes

Expressionism

Emphasise Artist's expression of inner experiences

Fauvisim

Characterised by bright and nonnatural colors and simple forms.

Futurism

Tries to express the energy and values of the machine age.

Minimalism

Emphasised extreme simplification of form and color.

Surrealism

Uses fantastic images and incongruous juxtapositions in order to represent unconscious thoughts and dreams.

Symbolism

Tried to express abstract or mystical ideas through the symbolic use of symbols.

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Is every double Ikat a Telia Rumal

Ikat is a yarn resist technique wherein the yarns are tie-dyed, and on weaving a pattern is created on the surface of the fabric.

In single Ikat fabrics, either warp or weft is tie-dyed and woven with the other thread ( weft or warp) of solid color. In double Ikat, both warp and weft are tie-dyed according to a pre-determined pattern and then woven to create design on the fabric.

Double Ikat

Telia Rumal traditionally woven in Chirala, is originally a square constructed. However now the fabrics, or sarees are woven in this construction. A Telia -as it called today- is a double ikat construction with a typical color and design pattern.

The typical colors of Telias are Terracota red and black using natural dyes. The fabrics are mordanted with iron solution and alum so that on dyeing with alizarine, areas with iron become deep black and the ones with alum turned red.

As far as design is concerned, the layout of typical Telia comprise of a geometrical grid like patterning with borders all around, thereby creating small squares at the four corners.

There is also a confusion between Pochampally Ikat and Telia. Pochampally is a commercial application of Telia Rumal technique as well as patola technique of Gujarat. They use single, double or combined ikat techniques to produce sarees and fabric which are cost effective and popular.

Source

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Indian Traditional Embroidery- How to Recognise-2

West India

Continued from Part-1

1. Gujarat Kutchh

Abla Bharat

Mochi Bharat

Soof Bharat

2. Parasi

Central India

1. Chikankari- Uttar Pradesh

2. Phoolpatti- Uttar Pradesh

3. Zardozi- Uttar Pradesh

South India

1. Kasuti- Karnataka

2. Lambani

East India

1. Kantha- West Bengal

2. Sujani- Bihar

3. Pipli Applique- Orissa

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What are Dhalapathar Sarees

Dhalapathar sarees are woven in the Dhalapathar in Khurda district of Orissa. These are woven by Rangani community in the village.

Source:http://www.parisera.com/

These are also known as Kusumi Kapta, Kankana Pedi, Muktapunji, Nahati and Akata.

The yarn is cotton and they are woven in 20s to 2/120s count. Sizing is done only when 20s or 26s yarn in used. With mercerised yarn, no sizing is required. It is woven in fly shuttle pit looms. Ground weave is plain. Cotton healds are used for each warp.

Figuring is done with extra warp. For that flat rectangular wooden pieces called "Chiaris" are used. However now frame looms and Jalas are also used. The designing is done using weft rib of either 4 up 1 down or 6 up one down.

The dyeing is done using synthetic dyes.

For more details please refer to this source. and this one.



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