Difference Among Pure Silk, Blended Silk and Part Silk Fabrics

As per BIS (Bureau of Indian Standard) the following definitions will apply. Please note that composition of only ground fabric or base fabric will be considered.

1. Pure Silk

If the content of silk in the fabric is more than or equal to 95% then it is termed as pure silk.

2. Blended Silk

If the content of silk in the fabric is more than or equal to 50% then it is termed as blended silk. A tolerance of +-3% is allowed on the declared content.

3. Part Silk

If the content of silk in the fabric is more than or equal to 20% then it is termed as part silk. A tolerance of +- 3% is permitted.

As per BIS, a silk fabric to be marked with the following information among others:

a. Name of the fabric eg. chiffon, crepe etc.
b. Blend composition e.g. pure silk, blended silk or part silk
c. variety of silk eg. mulberry, eri, muga or tussar

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Garment Sizing Systems Notes-1

1. As per S. Ashdown, devising a sizing system should seek to answer the following questions:

a. How many and which body dimensions must be used with reference to the garment in consideration. These dimensions are called control dimensions. These are also called primary dimensions. These are those that affect the goodness of fit in a garment and are the dimensions that are measured on a customer to match them with the right sized garment.

b.  What portion of the range to be covered. This is called size range. 

c. How the grouping of these sizing should be done. This is called Size, Inter size interval or size steps. 

d. How many sizes must be produced and how many garments must be produced of each size. This is called size roll. 

e. Which other dimensions are important for garment constructions. These are called secondary dimensions. These are dimensions are dimensions which are used together with primary dimensions to define the body size of one person as a whole.

f. How the garment must be labelled. The aim is of unmistakable identification, this is called size designation. As per the author "...often it is not clear whether the size codes printed on the label refer to the garment or body measurements or to which area of the garments and body in particular.

2. It is also important to know what portion of the population is provided for by the sizing system. This is called accommodation rate. This is between 65% to 85%

3. Choice of Intersize Interval can be understood with the following observations by Koblyakova:

a. One needs to find out the interval of indifference. It is defined as that interval between sizes along some dimensions that doesn't make a difference to the wearer.

b. The interval of indifference is considered to be twice the average tolerance level, which is defined as the largest increment along a dimension that will not be recognized by the wearer. The value of the level of indifference depends upon various factors:

i. Body dimensions with larger absolute values ( such as stature or hip girth) will have larger intervals of indifference than dimensions with smaller absolute values ( such as arm length or neck girth)

ii. Another factor affecting the interval of indifference is the property of the fabric used for garment. Greater flexibility and stretch of the fabric would increase the level of tolerance, therefore increasing the interval of indifference and hence the secondary intersize interval.

iii. As per Koblyakova, the following size step guidelines can be used for topwear:

6cm for Outerwear
10 cm for mens shirt
12 cm for knitwear.

iv. As per ISO, the following size step guidelines can be used- for topwear:

Womens, all size steps without knits- 8cm
Knits- 6cm

4. Secondary Dimensions describe a body in the details necessary to construct a garment that fits a body. 

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What is Unique about Ponduru Khadi

This Khadi is produced from Ponduru, a village in Srikakulum district in North Andhra Pradesh.

The uniqueness about this fabric is the fiber. It is produced from a special variety of cotton called Punas cotton, hill white cotton and red cotton. The cotton is of very short staple length produced in Srikakulum area.

The second uniqueness about this fabric is the method of spinning.

The raw seeded cotton is ginned with the help of Valuga fish jawbone. This fish is only found in that area. Then it is fluffed and smoothed with the help of fine sticks which also remove the waste.

Slivering is done with a bow and carding is done with the help of a wooden machine. The slivers are handmade and kept in a dried banana stem.

This is one of the only places where still single spindle charkha is used for spinning. Yarn upto 120s count can be spun in white cotton while upto 60s can be spun with red cotton.

Reference: 1

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Indian Saris - New Book by Priyank Goyal

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This book has come out after a constant search for details related to Indian traditional saris and with the experience of the author dealing with these saris as a category manager, buyer and merchandiser. This is the first volume of the series. In this volume a total of sixteen saris from different parts of India are presented. The brief is kept to the point and as simple as possible. Each chapter starts with one sari and a picture of that sari. The book is kept free from the clutter of the myths and stories associated with the saris. Technical parameters such as count, construction and weaving techniques are given for each of the saris. 

This is helpful for someone who wants to get the knowledge of all different types of Indian saris at one place. This is going to help immensely the students of Indian Traditional Textiles, researchers, merchandisers of saris and general textile enthusiast.

You can ORDER THE BOOK HERE.