Indian Saris - New Book by Priyank Goyal

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This book has come out after a constant search for details related to Indian traditional saris and with the experience of the author dealing with these saris as a category manager, buyer and merchandiser. This is the first volume of the series. In this volume a total of sixteen saris from different parts of India are presented. The brief is kept to the point and as simple as possible. Each chapter starts with one sari and a picture of that sari. The book is kept free from the clutter of the myths and stories associated with the saris. Technical parameters such as count, construction and weaving techniques are given for each of the saris. 

This is helpful for someone who wants to get the knowledge of all different types of Indian saris at one place. This is going to help immensely the students of Indian Traditional Textiles, researchers, merchandisers of saris and general textile enthusiast.

You can ORDER THE BOOK HERE.

What is Laser Cut Fabric

As the technology is evolving, newer uses of the industrial application are finding their ways into art and design. One such way is creating designs by way of laser cutting of fabrics.

http://www.hariomlaser.com/

Laser cutting is a misnomer, as the laser never "cuts" the material rather it sears, burns or evaporates the material. In the process, it also seals the edges of the material, stopping it from fraying on the process.

Hollowing

It is a trendy fashion cut that enhances the charm of the fabric. Traditionally it was done on a limited scale, but with the advent of laser cutting, is done on a grand scale.

http://www.hariomlaser.com/

Applique

Laser cutting can also be used to create multiple layer effect applique by placing multiple pieces of fabric together, then cutting each by laser as necessary.

http://www.hariomlaser.com/

Jeans Engraving

It is a type of laser cutting, in which the top surface of the jeans is vapourised and by making the changes in the laser beam according to the requirement, an image can be generated.

http://www.hariomlaser.com/

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What is Scroop Finish

Scroop is a term used commonly as a finish with synthetic fibers and silk. 

In case of silk scroop is the crunchy feel as well as rustly sound that is produced in the fiber on use. Scroop is like the feeling of squeezing a big bag of corn starch or stepping down into a very powdery snow. 

Scroop is not an inherent property of silk. 

Scroop can be induced in silk in two ways:

One way is to leave the gum of the silk (sericin) behind and not remove it. Sericin has a high coefficient of friction and hence resists the easy sliding of fibers one over the other. Vibrations created by friction produce the sound. 

The other way is by treating silk with organic acid such as formic, lactic, citric or acetic acid in a concentration of 2-4 ml/l and drying without washing. 

In case of synthetic fibers, cohesive agents are used to increase the fiber-to-fiber friction. However, it will increase a property called scroop. The attribute is so named, because of the sound that the staple bundle makes when it is squeezed. It is caused by resistance to the fiber movement that results from the increase in friction between the fibers. If a fabric is made from a yarn having high scroop level- a harsh handle is produced. 

Reference: This is an amazing reading on silk by MIT

* By the way - Unrelated to the post- Cashmilon is made of acrylic and not nylon. 

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Kolhapuri Chappals

Kolhapuri Chappals

http://www.kolhapurichappal.co.in/

Origin

Kolhapur, Maharashtra

Uniqueness

These chappals make peculiar sound- kar..kar..kar- while walking to attract others. This sound repels animals while walking in forests. This is done by placing a particular type of seed in the two layers of the sole to make sound. The seed is obtained from the “Vinchu” tree.

Types

There are broadly three types of the chappals on the basis of the weight

Regular

These have regular weight

Paper Kapsi

These are feather light chappals

Jada

These are thicker version of the chappals.

Technique and Limitations

1. Natural Tan is used.

2. The entire process takes about 45 days.

3. The sides are cut when the leather is still semi wet. Once the sides dry out, they shrink resulting in smaller sizes and fits.

4. The layers of the leather in the sole are attached using a unique mud from nearby river. Due to these layers sometimes separate causing discomfort.

5.  the Stiff base sometimes turns soggy in water.

6. The two sides of the toe are stitched one above the other and then pushed between the sole. Sometimes they produce discomfort.

7. Sizing is an issue, as the artisans use fingers for sizing.

8. The top and bottom sole patterns are stitched around the edges of the heel. Once the edges get frayed, the heels begin to fall off. 

Wearing-in of the Kolhapuri Chappals is always an issue. Here are some of the guidelines. These also include the care and preservation of these articles.  (Adapted from this source)

1. If the kolhapuri chapal is too tight, dip the chappal in a tap water for two seconds and remove it. This will make the leather soft and the chappal takes the shape of your foot.

2. If the chappal is stiff, apply oil with the help of cotton to soften it. 

3. It is best to use in winter and summer seasons. (Do not use in water or rainy season).

Note: This is my first post on footwear. I could not resist as these are so much tied with the overall looks of the Indian ethnic wear. I intend to write more in the future.

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