Textile Testing without instruments

The tests as given below can be used to arrive at a preliminary conclusion. Definitive conclusions must be drawn by the standard test methods.

Difference between carded and combed yarns (Or woollen and worsted yarns) of the same count

Untwist the yarn and note the arrangement in the fibers. In carded yarns, the fibers are spread unevenly across the length. In combed yarn, they will lie parallel to the yarn surface. Similar test can be done to distinguish between woollen and worsted yarns.

Closeness of the Weave

Hold the cloth to the light and look through it. It can be determined to find if the weave is loose or close. It can also give you an idea about the uniformity of yarns.

Also run your thumbnail diagonally across the cloth. Any loose weave will manifest itself in the form of pathway made across the cloth after the thumbnail.

Elasticity

Crumple the fabric and note the behavior when the pressure is removed. The fabric should spring back to its former shape quickly.

Starch

Rub the fabric together, starch will come out in the form of dust. Or tear the fabric, dust will fly.

Strength

Grasp the cloth in both hands about an inch apart and pull steadily.

Drape 

Just spread the fabric over a surface so that it hangs down all around it and note the drape.

Colorfastness to Washing and Rubbing

Simply wash it or rub with a cloth.

Fastness to spotting- Used for Silk

Sprinkle a drop of water with little lime added to it. Allow it to dry then brush off.

Strain Resistance on Seam


Push the warp and weft with the finger nails, if they are pushed easily, the material will fray at seam. Another way to teat is to weave a needle in and out of the double of the material as if making a tuck. the Single cloth is then drawn away from each side of the needle and if a row of holes shows clearly alongside of the needle the material will not bear a strain.

Fastness to Perspiration

To test the change of color, dip it in a little warm vinegar and drying between tissue papers without rinsing.

Burn test methods to detect fiber composition are covered elsewhere in this blog.

Source

Thanks for your attention. Did you find the information you were looking for ? Please leave a comment. Do you need to know more ? Please suggest a topic in the comments. You can also join the Forum for your specific queries.

Can you Recognise these Cellulosic Fibers

A.

B. 

C.

D.

Answers:

A. Cotton

B. Flax

C. Jute

D. Ramie

You can find other pictures here. 

Thanks for your attention. Did you find the information you were looking for ? Please leave a comment. Do you need to know more ? Please suggest a topic in the comments. You can also join the Forum for your specific queries.

After thoughts on the recent Bhagalpur Trip

It was heartening to find the fact from the people there that Bihar is in fact progressing in the regime of Nitish Kumar. According to them, previously it was difficult to be on the roads after 8 pm, now you can easily roam about till 10. 

Bhagalpuri Ghicha

Bhagalpur Ghicha Made of Eri 

The two most glaring problems with Bhagalpur are lack of proper roads and electricity. The fact that it took us more than two and a half hours to reach Bhagiya, only 70 km from Bhagalpur tells about the pathetic conditions of road. Electricity problem is so acute that the entire powerloom industry is run on Diesel Generators with the result that there is too much pollution in the city. 

The roads are too narrow to accommodate so much population. Special efforts need to be done to plan it properly. 

The hotel Sriyash Regency was a good place with quite good facilities as compared to the city.

A room in Hotel Sriyash

One interesting aspects of this city is the emphasis on education. You can find huge showroom showcasing books and competition material. The whole city is filled with posters of Coaching for Bank P.O. and other exams.  

The most beautiful aspects of this trip was the landscape outside Bhagalpur littered with Tar trees. Going by the Ganges at your side was the most refreshing of all.  

They are still using direct dyes for dyeing Tus/Staple fabrics. It was interesting to see the use of synthetic resin ( Jeevan Jod) to be used with Arrowroot starching on the fabric. The people who work on cotton also work on Linen on powerlooms. It was enlightening to see  the weaving of Tussar Ghicha fabric at Bhagiya. The creative use of different Gotis ( Cocoons) to get different colors and textures is amazing. Most of the Silk Gaddis are owned by Vaish and Marwari community. 

Bhagalpuri Sari

There is still a lot to be done. People there just do not care for reservation and encroach freely in the compartments. A lot of chain pulling happens between Patna and Bhagalpur. 

Thanks for your attention. Did you find the information you were looking for ? Please leave a comment. Do you need to know more ? Please suggest a topic in the comments. You can also join the Forum for your specific queries.

Textile Softners

Softness of fabric depends upon several factors, these are:

1.       Composition of the Fiber: The more crystalline region a fiber has, the less soft will be the fabric. Thus viscose is more soft than cotton as it has less crystalline region than cotton.

2.       Softness of Yarn: It depends upon the twist. The higher the twist, the less soft will be the yarn and hence less soft will be the fabric.

3.       Weave: Loose weave give more softness to the fabric than closer weave. Thus a fabric made with satin or twill weave will be more softer than that made with plain weave. 

Chemical softening is done by using chemicals which act as a lubricating agent and permits sliding of the fibers in the fabric. However, washing can eliminate these chemicals. Therefore they are applied during the final stage of the treatment.

The most common type of Chemical Softeners are:

1.       Non Ionic softeners: These are less efficient than anionic or cationic softeners, but they can withstand the effects of hard water. They can also sustain themselves in acid and basic environments and thus are most suitable for normal washing.

2.       Anionic Softeners: These are very good and give the fabric a full hand. However they cannot sustain hard water and acid environment. They can also cause yellowing at certain  temperatures.

3.       Cationic Softeners: They are amongst the best of the softeners. However they can cause dye toning. Also they can affect the color fastness to light.

4.       Silicone Based Softeners: These are insoluble in water and therefore must be applied on the fabric after dissolution in organic solvents. They have good fastness to washing. They create a lubricating film on the surface and give fabric a velvety silky hand.

5.        Reactive Softeners: These products have to be cross linked and provide permanent softness and water repellency.