Master Weaver in India

Master weaver is generally termed as a super artisan in a particular textile craft. In handloom terminology of India, however, a master weaver is an entrepreneur who produces cloth by employing wage labour. He either directly sells to the the traders or sell it in the market.

There are basically two types systems employed by the master weaver. In one system, the weaver works at his home with his family. The raw material is supplied by the master weaver. Generally the waver works on a piece rate system. The good point of this method is the fact that whole family helps in the weaving process.

In the Karkhana system, the weaver works on the looms provided by the master weaver under one roof. Generally the weaver works on a time rate system.

This system has emerged as a dominant system in handlooms in India.

Please read the full report here.


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What is Super Combed Cotton

Combing operation necessarily eliminates a certain predetermined percentage of short fibers, which when spun produces a softer and smoother yarn. It also permits to spin to a fine count of yarn.

We sometimes segregate cotton yarns depending upon the percentage of short fibers removed during combing.

In Semi Combed Cotton the short fiber removal percentage is kept at 5-10%.

In Normally Combed cotton the short fiber removal percentage is kept between 10-20%.

In Super Combed cottons the short fiber removal percentage is over 20%.

A very nice introduction to combing for Textile Technologists can be found in this article.

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Ahimsa Silk : Is it really Non-Violent

Ahimsa Silk, also known as Peace Silk, is processed from cocoons without killing the pupae inside.

The main Arguments Against Ahimsa Silk are the two:

1. If the pupa is allowed to hatch, they will become caterpillars, it is impossible to feed so many. Thus instead of killing individual caterpillars, the offsprings are being killed.

2. In Eri Silk also, majority of the worms are starved to death after hatching. They are not flying off into woods.

As the Author says "I think it's mathematical sleight-of-hand to justify a high sale price for second-tier yarns"

Please read the full article here.

Similar Argument is given that Recycled polyester is more enviroonmentally sustainable than cotton. Read here


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More about Tussar or Tussah or Tassar

Looking for Tussar, I came across several other interesting features. Some of these are as follows:

1. China exports two types of Tussar Silks: 33/37 D Water reeled and 70 D Dry Reeled Silk. I am just wondering if the "China" that is 50/70 quality that we use in India is dry reeled always.

2. There are 7 grades of quality of Tussar Exported by China, 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C and Off grade.


3. The standard moisture regain of Tussar Silk is 10% and density is 1.58 to 1.63 gms/cm3.


4. Elongation at break of water reeled tussar is 23% and dry reeled tussar is 16%.


5. China tussar is different from Indian ( Tropical ) tussar due to the fact the China Tussar the species of the worm is different and fed on "Oak Leaves" ( Also done in Himalyan Regions of the country). Whereas in India it is fed on "Arjun" and "Aasan" leaves. 


6. 8 is the usual number of cocoon filaments to form a single thread. The normal size of the thread produced is 30-35 deniers.


7.Tussar silk is the primary kind in the silk which lustrous,bright,soft handfeel,it has highest wear resistance in the natural faric. The Acid & Alkali Resistance of tussah silk is better than mulberry silk.


However I could not find out how they do dry reeling of tussar. Would require your inputs. 


And yes, I found the Tussar process practiced in Bihar, Bhagalpur. You can click here to find out more.

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